Any particular reason for solid roller with that size cam? I had one and my engine builder "STRONGLY" advised against it for a street engine.
W2 408 build
- Thread starter cpearce
- Start date
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Will need to check on the valve springs, can't recall off top of my head
Ive run solids before without issue on the street and now with force oiled bearings it should be even safer....Actually I've talked to 3 builders this week that all said they recommend solids...they all said they can't talk guys out of hydraulics...I don't mind adjusting lash once per year and it's free hp.
I don't plan on going over .600 lift or crazy durations.
I don't plan on going over .600 lift or crazy durations.
Agreed solid rollers serve a purpose and definitely can out power a hydraulic roller, I just don't see it in a cam this size and an engine with this rpm range. Now a mid 6 lift with duration in the 250-260 range is a different story. I had a friend lose a solid roller with pin oiling on street and it was really ugly. I intend 5000km per year with mine so the risk was not worth it to me.
That's what I thought the builders would tell me so I was surprised when they all said the opposite.
I doubt I will put enough miles on it to make difference for me either way.
The 70 Charger behind the Cuda has a Crower solid roller 440-6 and I had a W-2 340 Dart with a 638 Comp solid...
I doubt I will put enough miles on it to make difference for me either way.
The 70 Charger behind the Cuda has a Crower solid roller 440-6 and I had a W-2 340 Dart with a 638 Comp solid...
I completely agree on the price problem for W2's. However, if your interested in some serious big power, that is where it is at. The Indy X (and other aftermarket iron) heads are excellent in there own right. The W2's are an aging head. Cheaper and better iron heads have come around with excellent ports to carve. There performance ceilings aren't as high, but, do perform very well. They should be awesome street strip heads.
I'll have a bunch in my W2's by time there finished.
The real problem with running W2s is the woman lying next to me who would freak if she knew how much I'm about to drop on a new motor the way it is....lol
Otherwise I would duplicate Cpearces motor with a solid ...I'm actually not that biased either way as far as the cam is concerned and I will be lucky to come even close to your hp..
Otherwise I would duplicate Cpearces motor with a solid ...I'm actually not that biased either way as far as the cam is concerned and I will be lucky to come even close to your hp..
No worries, I'll keep it a secret!
Yes the W2 route certainly has an added cost for sure. Two reasons I went that route.
1. Keep it mostly mopar
2. Look fairly stock
This was certainly not the most cost effective way to build the engine for sure. I also have another fresh set of these castings and an r3 block for the next build. That one will be big cam and big compression and more cubic inches with no concern for street use.
1. Keep it mostly mopar
2. Look fairly stock
This was certainly not the most cost effective way to build the engine for sure. I also have another fresh set of these castings and an r3 block for the next build. That one will be big cam and big compression and more cubic inches with no concern for street use.
I have noticed that a solid cam, roller or not, get a bad rap with "Extra work needed" with valve lash adjustments being needed. Normally over blown thoughts of constant lash adjustments as if it was a weekly endeavor.
While a Hyd. cam or non adjustable rockers, will never need this, it is an easy thing to do requiring a little bit of time.
If I can get my crap together (LMAO) I will be doing a solid roller in my next build.
I was not intending to give solids a bad rap, my next one will have it. Lashing valves is a non issue. I went hydraulic roller due to already owning a roller block. I was going to use a solid roller in this build with my R3 block but engine builder advised against it for my application. I highly respect his opinion as this guy builds stock and super stock engines. (Incidently two of his cars made the finals at the nationals and worlds this year, he is owner builder and driver.
How many of the articles about using half this performance stuff are written by or sponsored by the parts vendors themselves. Of course they will tell you it is a good idea. Just because they can be used on street does not mean they should be, yes others have had success using them but many others have had nasty (expensive) failures.
The reliability issues with solid rollers are undisputable, solids flats non issue with good oils and proper break in.
Solid roller cams have their place, my opinion and that of many respected engine builders is that it is not in a car that will actually be used as a regular transportation vehicle during the warm seasons.
It is to bad for the Mopar guys that Isky does not make a Red Zone bushed roller solid roller lifter for mopar r3 block. This looks like the one to use if a person wanted a solid roller street lifter.
I think the key is the term "street car".... How many miles do these cars really go per year on average ? 2000 maybe...?
Except for my Charger which I used as a daily driver for a few years . And I still probably only put 5-10k on it in that time (plus a few 1/4 miles passes...lol)
Except for my Charger which I used as a daily driver for a few years . And I still probably only put 5-10k on it in that time (plus a few 1/4 miles passes...lol)
100% agree. I know in my case on summer vacation I will be travelling 400 miles each way. Then one of the big weekend out gs we do is another 375 each way so I need reliability. Good conversation guys.
Yea, good convo. A Hyd. roller would fit the bill nicely. I used in in the wife's ride. It will have the ability to go anywhere, anytime, for as far as you want to go.
Isnt it the low rpms that are hard on Solids ? A long drive at highway speeds (3000-4000 rpm) should be fine for solid rollers....after all they use them in Nascar and other Endurance racing as well as Long Haul trucks ( albeit a different application)
I thought I would try to insert a picture of my '70 next to your '69.
NICE! It looks as exotic as a brick and I bet just as lethal when dropped on the competitions head from 25,000.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Is that the OE correct heater hose position? I know mine are wrong and I want to move them back where they go.
Thanks
I can't even remember, your combination. Don't expose it,for semi obvious reasons. I had a sweet 408 short block assembled , I could not find a set of W2 heads (econo) for a 59 degree setup, available anywhere (2006-2008 ...) with a 258-270 @ .050 solid roller ,and a good single four inlet. I could do some damaging in the Chevrolet/ Ford constitutes...
Sorry about the double sidetracked :To Yellow Rose ,and C Peirce.
That looks awesome, I love it. Very unassuming appearance. Nice job!
For a '70 that is the correct way to run your heater hoses.
Thank you I hid everything I could....even the EFI.
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