W2 heads I think they are ready

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pic really shows the difference
thanks for posting
don't happen to have one from the end?
how do the pushrods line up withthe adjusters?
 
Thought I would mock up some ductile iron rockers and check. Even with the iron rockers they are to short.
pittsburghracer said:
I’m sure glad I was happy running 9.80’s with my W2 heads. Low rpm banana grooved shafts and go have fun. Some of you guys work to hard at this game
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If I put my wife’s 440 Sixpack in the neighbors pos Monte Carlo SG car it would probably run 9.80
He’s been struggling a couple years

7809C438-7626-480D-81C0-0C9785625336.jpeg
 
12swinger said:
Thought I would mock up some ductile iron rockers and check. Even with the iron rockers they are to short.

If I put my wife’s 440 Sixpack in the neighbors pos Monte Carlo SG car it would probably run 9.80
He’s been struggling a couple years

View attachment 1715519581
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I hate to say this but if you took out the kit that is elevated your rocker shaft,your pushrods would be a better length and your oil holes might align.
 
Duane said:
I hate to say this but if you took out the kit that is elevated your rocker shaft,your pushrods would be a better length and your oil holes might align.
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The geometry is pretty bad though. The installed height is not quite 2” so the .650-.660 roller will work.
If I had a height closer to 1.70 and a cam around .550 wouldn’t need it.
Mike from B3 racing did a nice job with that kit. Engine should have a smooth valvetrain at 7-8 thousand rpm once I get it lined out.
Here is a old pic I sent Mike. The rocker was eating the spring, until that kit moved it up and away. Otherwise you have to mill the stands off, and install stands or blocks.

6E1E7355-FE46-4B3F-A44F-364007586D4B.jpeg
 
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12swinger said:
The geometry is pretty bad though. The installed height is not quite 2” so the .650-.660 roller will work.
If I had a height closer to 1.70 and a cam around .550 wouldn’t need it.
Mike from B3 racing did a nice job with that kit. Engine should have a smooth valvetrain at 7-8 thousand rpm once I get it lined out.
Here is a old pic I sent Mike. The rocker was eating the spring, until that kit moved it up and away. Otherwise you have to mill the stands off, and install stands or blocks.

View attachment 1715519713
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Yes I see what you mean. Too many mismatched parts in your combo.
 
We ran 2" springs and cut off the stands and made aluminum stands
Anyone notice why Torrington's are put between some rockers?
I wonder why no one slants the adjusters
a lot of the aluminum rockers are off in both directions
anyone else have a pushrod jump off?
 
12swinger said:
Yellow rose is correct holes don’t line up.
Exhaust is not far off, maybe a .100”
Intake is not even close of course, with either pair of shafts, both were new sets, one was w2-w5 and the others I’m not sure, billet shafts I think not even close either.

View attachment 1715518773
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Ok, that’s the picture I wanted to see. The oil feed hole in the rocker is just below the threads, and that is Chrysler oiling.`Crane made some rockers with the oil hole lower in the rocker body and that was bad.

Soooooooo...now you can see what I was saying about the clocking of the feed holes in the shafts...they don’t line up with anything. That hole in the rocker MUST be lined up with the hole in the shaft while the valve is on the seat. If you do that, you will be able to RPM as high as your budget or nuts allow (I crap out at 8800 when I’m paying the bills...someone else is writing the checks and I’m good for another 1k RPM) and as much spring load as you can get.

The only way I know to fix the issue is to mock up the rockers on the shafts they go on, and in the position they will run in, number everything, including the hold downs and then with some bluing on the shafts, use a thin scribe through the hole in the rocker and mark the shafts.

Then, you have to disassemble the whole thing, drill new holes in the shafts (you’ll need carbide as the shafts are HARD) and then you’ll never have an issue.

It’s sickening that chrysler didn’t address this issue. I tried grooving the shafts to get oil there, but it didn’t work.

My next engine will be a W2 deal, and I have to do the same modifications. What a PITA.
 
Wyrmrider said:
We ran 2" springs and cut off the stands and made aluminum stands
Anyone notice why Torrington's are put between some rockers?
I wonder why no one slants the adjusters
a lot of the aluminum rockers are off in both directions
anyone else have a pushrod jump off?
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Ive used Torrington bearings on both sides of the exhaust rockers. Probably will have to do it on my next build.

The offset of the intake rockers and the large pushrod offset tends to force the intake rocker into the exhaust rocker, and you get some serious binding. The bearings eliminate that.
 
Duane said:
Ok yellow rose can you clarify for me about pushrod length.
I have always followed the old Mopar engine book for optimal pushrod length. But I always thought it was for optimal geometry.
You guys are saying that it was to make sure that those oiling hole line up properly and Pittsburg racer is saying the banana grooves help with this alignment, correct?
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I’m saying that the adjuster length not only affects the geometry some, BUT...the big deal is the location of the pushrod cup relative to the oil feed hole in the rocker.

In theory, the oil squirting out of the rocker should hit the adjuster just above the ball, where the adjuster is undercut.

This allows the oil to run down the adjuster and fill the cup while there is lash in the system. If the pushrod is too short, the oil hits the threaded portion of the adjuster and never gets to the cup.

It looks like a very haphazard way to oil the adjusters and pushrods but when it is right, it oils everything and does it well. As I’ve said before, that’s one reason to run a HV oil pump and keep the idle oil pressure at 45ish or more. I want oil at the rocker and adjusters at idle. Believe it or not, that’s when most adjusters get smoked...at idle. At WOT or even at cruise, there is enough oil flowing up to the rockers that most anything will oil just due to the oil fog in the valve covers. The correct way to do it is outlined above.
 
yellow rose said:
Ive used Torrington bearings on both sides of the exhaust rockers. Probably will have to do it on my next build.

The offset of the intake rockers and the large pushrod offset tends to force the intake rocker into the exhaust rocker, and you get some serious binding. The bearings eliminate that.
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“Torrington bearings!” Excellent idea! I never thought about that. “They” make them the size needed? Or a special order is needed?
 
if you hav std od shafts no problem
crane ever knew wtf they were doing as far as rockers were concerned
quick lift bs etc
 
rumblefish360 said:
“Torrington bearings!” Excellent idea! I never thought about that. “They” make them the size needed? Or a special order is needed?
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I got mine through a local bearing house but they are easy to get.

You also need to remember to get them in there, you have to narrow the exhaust rocker on each side the thickness of the bearing.
 
yellow rose said:
I got mine through a local bearing house but they are easy to get.

You also need to remember to get them in there, you have to narrow the exhaust rocker on each side the thickness of the bearing.
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Did you run the rockers directly on the needles or did you put the
Hardened shim/races in there too?
 
12swinger said:
I’ll bet it’ll run 10s in its first outing to the drag strip.
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Yes if you have the rest of the drivetrain to go with it.
My dart used to run 11:20 with a 1.50 60ft at 344 ci with unported
W2 620 lift cam. Never saw all the motor and car details but yea you should be able to makes 10,s if it sticks.
 
Duane said:
Yes if you have the rest of the drivetrain to go with it.
My dart used to run 11:20 with a 1.50 60ft at 344 ci with unported
W2 620 lift cam. Never saw all the motor and car details but yea you should be able to makes 10,s if it sticks.
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It ran 7.40s on the motor and 6.90 on a 100 shot with ported j heads on dot tires, and exhaust. Stockish 340 solid cam 1/8th mile.
Didn’t get to many opportunities to run quarter as all the tracks were 1/8 mile where I lived at the time.
Drove it to the track
 
my motor i build in mid 90s...race w2s....which i ported...20 over 340..stock stroke..(old 318 truck crank)11 to 1..comp...600 comp cam...roller...i drove the car every where ..3200lbs..ran 11.50s street slicks and mufflers..ran on lean side...and then i got married..lol...im sure if id tuned it more and had more runs at the track,,id see a 10.90...didnt use the trans brake..
 
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