Want to see pictures of your full tubbed or backhalfed a body

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elitesrock2

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So i have a 69 dart i'm thinking about tubbing and have a few questions.
1.can one simply relocate frame rails and continue extending the stock wheel wells?
2.What does the term "back half" really mean.
3.what is the best material to replace the frame rail material with.
I have the tools and ability to do the procedure just have never done it. I like to do things myself and this is definitely something i want to try.
a mini tub is something i though about but for the amount of power i plan on putting through the car i believe it would be my best interests to go further.
if anyone could post some pictures of what they did for their tub job and maybe their experiences with the process it would be greatly appreciated.
 
1970 Duster Full tubs springs inboarded, wheels are 6 1/2" backspace. 14" wide slicks will fit in the wheel wells.

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Here is a pic of a 74 dart sport I am buying. I am not sure of the size of the rear wheels. But it has a narrowed 8-3/4 with 29.5x13.5x15 M/T ET drag slicks.

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Sorry no real good pics. But this is tubbed and backhalved. I built it all with 2x3 tubing. It will easily fit a 32x17.5 Et Street. I have since swapped out the 8 3/4 for a wider dana at 44". The rear rails are 2' center to center. Its ladder bar and coil over. I now run a 29x13.5 hoosier quick time pro or a 315 drag radial on a 15x12 with 4.5" back space.

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abodyjim what is your rear wheel and tire size? That thing looks bitchin!
 
I would not reuse the stock rails. Buy an premade frame. Don't buy the cheap coil overs that are a shock with springs slid over them. spend the extra money and get a four link not the ladder bars, and get the housing back braced now.
 
I agree
MidTexCuda said:
I would not reuse the stock rails. Buy an premade frame. Don't buy the cheap coil overs that are a shock with springs slid over them. spend the extra money and get a four link not the ladder bars, and get the housing back braced now.
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I agree With getting a real coil over. However ladder bars will work just fine on almost any application. Granted 4 link is the best for a track car. Just depends on your cash flow and how much adjustability you want.
 
elitesrock2 said:
So i have a 69 dart i'm thinking about tubbing and have a few questions.
1.can one simply relocate frame rails and continue extending the stock wheel wells?
2.What does the term "back half" really mean.
3.what is the best material to replace the frame rail material with.
I have the tools and ability to do the procedure just have never done it. I like to do things myself and this is definitely something i want to try.
a mini tub is something i though about but for the amount of power i plan on putting through the car i believe it would be my best interests to go further.
if anyone could post some pictures of what they did for their tub job and maybe their experiences with the process it would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
My brother was nice enough to start a thread on my build -- see "New race car nearing completion" by d55dave. I have since added some more pics and info. I used a Chris Alston Chassisworks kit for this project and was very happy with it. Still is a lot of work as everything had to be cut, fit , squared up and welded for the particular application but I was happy with the kit. As far as advice goes be ready to spend way more time thinking about things than actually doing them and measure twice (at least) then cut once! The time put into thinking things through and planning makes a huge difference in the final product. This is the first back-half project that I have done and I found myself always trying to think a couple steps ahead of where I actually was in the process. Like you are doing I found myself looking online for pictures of what other people have done. I found looking at pictures of race cars that are for sale very valuable to help me determine what I wanted to do and even more importantly what I did NOT want to do.
 
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I used a S & W Back half kit with a 4 link. I will say with about 30 runs in the books with this setup its so consistent its scarry
 
Here are a couple of different cars , done with full rear clips, four link and coil overs , and one with just frame rails and super stock springs , for pictures go to Chris Alston web site , look under tech center and they have a section on install articles . I have used them several times for info . first car 66 cuda AFX car with 4 link full rear frame and coil overs from
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Alston , second one is a 65 AFX car with frame rails and super stock springs . Both are street cars . If building a Pro street car be sure and use only redial tires with groves to flute the water out from under tires , the old style Bias tires will kill you in the rain . Had my 41 willys do a 180 in the rain doing 20 mph .
 
Mine's not finished yet, but this is where we are so far on my '65 Barracuda--new rear frame rails relocated inboard, with independent rear suspension.

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IRS side view.jpg
 
HOTMOPR said:
I agree
I agree With getting a real coil over. However ladder bars will work just fine on almost any application. Granted 4 link is the best for a track car. Just depends on your cash flow and how much adjustability you want.
Click to expand...
Agree, ladder bars are very good drag set up, a friends duster ran low 9`s w/ them, they had to tame it down to keep the 440 from splitting the blocks. I had a coil over tubbed vega built by east texas race cars, worked great on the dragstrip, wasn`t fantastic on the street , but worked.
 
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