[Found!] Wanted 70-76 duster project

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punkbomb138

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I'm looking for a 70-76 duster project. Doesn't matter to me if it has no engine or trans or if it was a 6 or 8 car originally. Looking to do a restonod.

I'd like one that's fairly rust free (don't we all) and one as close to west Virginia as possible.

Spending limit is very low. I've got lines on a few mopars on the local fb marketplace but rusty bodies and rusted out rails scares me.
 
Specify low budget. A rust free duster is pretty hard to find someone that is giving it away.
 
Dart Sport is out of the question ? Even a rot free 4spd with factory air ? Too far I know, but had to ask.........
 
Specify low budget. A rust free duster is pretty hard to find someone that is giving it away.
Doesn't have to be 100% rust free but 2k in metal parts into a car someone wants 3-5k for is a bit much for me. I'd like to stay under 3k for a shell but as I'm new to the platform idk what the going cost is for what condition bodies.
 
Dart Sport is out of the question ? Even a rot free 4spd with factory air ? Too far I know, but had to ask.........
I'm finding that I'm not into the darts as much as I thought I was once I started looking at dusters. They aren't 100% out of the question because they are still nice enough cars but if I have my choice I'd like a duster. Reminds me of a Chevelle or nova. But yea Arizona may be a bit too far away from me.
 
The dart sport he was referring to looks like a duster....I have a original 1972 h-code petty blue one with title for sale....$3,000 firm..solid rails...needs lower quarters patched and drivers floor pan....a few holes in trunk floor too...

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I like the looks of that. I found one about 6 hrs away thats a 72 dart swinger. I figured out why I don't like the later models it's that point at the front of the hood. I'm forever on the search for a good candidate. Where abouts are you located?
 
Earlier car will be a better investment
Later cars have heavy front stubs
A demon would be a popular build
Good luck
 
What’s your overall budget (drivetrain, suspension, brakes, interior) for the entire build (not just your body/shell acquisition)?
 
What’s your overall budget (drivetrain, suspension, brakes, interior) for the entire build (not just your body/shell acquisition)?
I'd like to be under 15k Overall said and done l. But I probably won't hit that target. We all know what happens once we start to build a project.

My plans are a built 340/360 swap to a manual transmission 8 1/4-8 3/4 rear end swap new suspension setup black interior. Full build you know. For me it's more about tinkering than it is the money. But I definately don't want to be 20-40k deep in it either.
 
I'd like to be under 15k Overall said and done l. But I probably won't hit that target. We all know what happens once we start to build a project.

My plans are a built 340/360 swap to a manual transmission 8 1/4-8 3/4 rear end swap new suspension setup black interior. Full build you know. For me it's more about tinkering than it is the money. But I definately don't want to be 20-40k deep in it either.
Got it. Do you have the drivetrain items already? What sort of suspension setup?
 
Got it. Do you have the drivetrain items already? What sort of suspension setup?
I currently have nothing not even a shell. I had one lined up but it ended up being a bad deal for me so I didn't get it. I have years to build this thing so I do like a dollar cost average type build. Atleast in my head I do
 
Based on what you’ve shared I wish you a lot of luck! Body work (even with minimal rust) and paint is going to be several thousand $.

Depending on how fresh (rebuilt or not?) the V8 and transmission is you drop in along with new rear end/gears, new brakes and then interior, I’m not sure how you are not going to be north of $20k?

[FOR SALE] - 73 Duster project

[SOLD] - 1972 Plymouth Duster $2000 OBO
 
You can easily be under 20k if you don't want a quality paint job. Paint and body work will crush that budget 60% immediately
Problem is your idea of what a quality paint job is likely different from mine and likely different from the OP. And while the OP might have intentions of building a 20 or 30 footer, it’s likely that once he’s into the job, he will want a 10 footer which will jack up the project cost part way through.

Unless it’s a highly sought after A body (ie: original 340 car) and is solid to start with, restoring any type of A body to a decent condition is automatically a money losing project. But if there are no intentions to sell it, then it doesn’t really matter how upside down one is in the build.
 
Luckily I can do a majority of the work myself. From mechanical stuff to paint and body work. The only work I wont/can't do myself is alignments and machine work for say building a stroker engine.

The idea is to get a 340 or 360 and bored and stroked that (still working on what that will run me) most definately not cheap. But I'm new to a body stuff but not new to builds persae.

But I can definately see what you guys are talking about. The one I was looking at the guy wanted 2k for and it needed 2k just in metal parts not including what it would cost me to have help to fix the frame structural issue it had. Hence why I won't be buying that one.

Thank you guys for all your input. Keep it coming if you like. I like learning and talking cars.
 
I'm watching my dad get totally bent over on a paint job for his build in the paint booth so from here on our im not paying for any paint and body. I'll get professional help and do it all our selves. It's insane. 30 footer is perfect if your gonna throw the car around and enjoy it
 
Yeah it’s tough hearing about a built budget skyrocketing. Sometimes it’s the car owner not having/setting clear expectations with the shop and sometimes it the shop taking advantage of the car owner. And in the ugliest of scenarios, it’s both at the same time!

With inflation what it is over the past few years, everything is more expensive to now. I don’t even want to think of what the restoration on my Scamp would cost now compared to when I did it 17 years ago. The days of finding a decent A body for $1,000 are long gone as are the days of a quality $5k paint job.
 
I'm watching my dad get totally bent over on a paint job for his build in the paint booth so from here on our im not paying for any paint and body. I'll get professional help and do it all our selves. It's insane. 30 footer is perfect if your gonna throw the car around and enjoy it
Paint and body can be extremely expensive. Most everyone likes a nice 10 footer. But with the internet and Google and time and patience you can learn to do a good job yourself.

Me personally I went to school to learn how to do it and I'm mediocre at best (patience isn't my strong suit) but I can turn out a decent product for myself atleast.

No one taught me how to do any of this stuff besides the paint stuff. I learned as I went along trial and error style. Then when Google and the internet started popping off with how to videos and old school forum type things is when I really started learning.
 
I've sprayed some myself with OK success to my standards but dad went full on rotisserie every nut and bolt and the guy doing the work...well..lll keep my thoughts to myself lol. But body has been at the shop for 2 years and we were told 6 months and $8,000 as it was a rust free straight body all original panels. And already racked up 15k+ and also traded a 41 Plymouth gasser and all he has painted this far is the hood and inner fenders... but here nor there. That's my dad's fault for not taking it back 6 months after no progress and excuse after excuse. Do everything you can yourself or learn how to for sure!!! I'm doing a 71 duster. I build my own engines and rear ends. I'll do all my prep and paint...The only things I've never messed with is doing interior nicely so that's where I'm nervous when my time comes
 
Many on here have seen my project.. 71 I paid 800 bucks for it in 2022 with a 440 in it I parted out several cars so I have a vast collection of parts. 340's. 4 speeds 8.75s I love dusters and demons so I hope I stumble upon more but they are still out here. It's 99% rust free except one half dollar sized hole in the floor

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It’s important to know your limits and also have a finely tuned BS sensitivity meter to minimize the chances of being fleeced.
 
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