Wanting to build a garage (Need advice)

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Suregrip391

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Hi Guys, I'm no construction expert so I am going to throw this one out to those that have a lot more knowledge on this topic then I do. I want to build a 26'x36' garage with 10 foot walls. 8/12 roof pitch. My first question is, is that enough height for adding an automotive lift some day? seems like it would be "tight" but others say a 10 foot wall is enough. 6" minimum for concrete is also what I was told where the lift goes. Secondly, I want my garage to have attic storage so I have one contractor wanting to build it using attic storage trusses that give me a 5'x 10'wide attic storage walking space. This contractor wants to use actual plywood on the roof (not OSB because plywood will tie it all in and make it stronger) 24" on center.

I also have a second contractor wanting to "stick build" the roof, no trusses, just a ridge beam and roof rafters giving me an attic storage space of roughly 7'x10' walking (More head room this way!) and he says it cheaper to build. This guy will put them 16" on center and only use OSB on the roof....Not plywood like the first guy.

So here are my questions..whats better?

16" O.C. with OSB roof sheathing or 24" on center with plywood sheathing?

Is 10' walls enough for a lift?

Is it normally cheaper to "stick build" the roof or use prefab trusses? (labor and materials are to be considered when stick building).

Any help or advice is appreciated! I cannot go any higher due to town codes. I'm sure some of you have been down this road, whats some of the do's and dont's and wish I would have's ???........ They always say to build it larger then you need, I already factored that in...er'...did I??.... LOL
 
Suregrip391 said:
Yes, I did a couple years ago, I prefer going with a regular residential style garage, shingle roof, vinyl siding, gutters....
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That's cool, we might be moving in a year or so and I anticipate having to build what you want. Too bad we aren't closer; my step-son could do you a great job and save ya $. Best of luck !
 
10 ft will need scissor truss to clear the lift.That means crawling storage up there. Are you sure of height by code? Raise the wall height, go to 4/12 pitch to lower total height? Metal building is sweet.5" concrete, but you want about a 2' by 2' footer for the lift. With rebar, a lot of weight/pressure in those spots.
 
- pour a thick and well reinforced floor, and put a nice coating on it before you start working in it.

- build a nice little room for your compressor, and run solid air lines to several places around the garage, with full filtration and moisture traps

- insulate it and finish it inside like a house, or make plans to eventually
 
Lincoln logs!

just kidding. Check with you codes to see if you have a flat roof on a pitch with a facade that simulates a gable. This will give you more headroom and attic space.

I wonder if you built block walls and once it passed inspection you jacked the roof up 16 inches and laid two more row of blocks at night. Would they ever know???
 
Both styles of roof you are asking about should meet code. Not sure about your area but probably BOCA.

As for cost - Probably comes out about the same; although with pre-built truss you can have the building started and finished in a few days. (Used to take us about 4 days with a crew of 4) Pole Construction. Building truss on site will take longer, I always hated building them on site.

As for height- I think your ceiling needs to be higher, 10' is cutting it too close. Average car about 4' truck maybe 6' and at times you may want to lift it 6' to fully walk under, lower to actually reach certain parts of vehicle. So I would go 12' at minium. My last garage I built was 12' side walls, I was going to do a lift but sold it before I put one in. My next one will be at least 14'.

I just got a quote for a 32x40 x 16 high; it was $9000 installed. It wasnt very much more to go higher; although I know you have height restrictions.
 
Hello, and congratulations on your upcoming build. I've built my garage with a 13ft ceiling and 9 ft sidewalls. This is more the adequate for my two-post lift. I would recommend no less than 12ft ceilings for a lift. The ten ft sidewalls are a bonus. I would go with the 24 inch on center rafters with plywood sheeting. If you have any other questions or concerns about your garage, let me know. Hope this helps, Christopher.
 
Ditto on the 12' ceiling.

My buddy has a 14' tall roof and his lift requires 12' ceiling.

My garage has 9' ceiling therefore I need a shorty lift and have to reinforce my 4" thick floors if I put a lift in there.

Yeah do the floors 6" thick, rhibar reinforced, get the lift pad stencils so you can bury allthread where the posts will sit.
 
Yep, 12' or 12'6" on the ceilings

6" on the concrete with rebar

No extra concrete for the lifts.

My 4 post lifts aren't even bolted down....they work just fine

lift003_Small_.jpg
 
I have a 2 post Rotary brand lift that was made here in the USA. It has a minimum height requirement of 11 foot 8 1/2 inches. If at all possible I would have a 12 foot area where the lift goes.

As far as your roof 24 inches on center is too far apart when you are spanning 26 feet as far as I am concerned. I have seen too many roofs sag that are on 24 inch centers even when using plywood. What is your snow load? You need to figure that in when you are doing the roof. What type of shingles are you using? Three tab is cheaper but a good quality architect shingle will last a lot longer but also weighs more.

Todays lumber is grown too quick and isn't like the wood of 20 years ago. OSB has a weather resistant (not weather proof) glue and standard plywood does not.

When you pour your concrete use 3500 or 4000 pound concrete not the 3000 pound. The heavier concrete will make a much stronger floor and footings.
 
The one thing I was going to do, but forgot, was to put the blue stryofoam insulation down before you pour the concrete. It helps keep your floor warm in the winter! Make sure you have lots of plug ins, at least 2 220's as well for welder and air compressor. I built a seperate room off the back for my compressor room.
If you are going to install a furnace get one that you can hang horizontal and place it up near the ceiling. You will soon run out of space and the extra you make by hanging your furnace will be worth it!
 
Whatever size you decide on......
It will not be big enough....
So build it twice as big as you decided on to start with.

Later,
Bruce B.
 
Cdx plywood has same exterior glue. And yes, the electric; 200 amp, you can't have enough receptacles. And need 220 service. A small 2 ton heat pump is great. Just get some ductboard, and build a plenum at the back, and put 4 vents in it. Damn air compressors are loud; Farmhand from Tractor Supply is quieter. Soffit vents, turbine vent on roof. Shoot every squirrel in the neighborhood, as they see a future home. Never enough windows. Just weld and install rebar cages.
 
green1 said:
Cdx plywood has same exterior glue. And yes, the electric; 200 amp, you can't have enough receptacles. And need 220 service. A small 2 ton heat pump is great. Just get some ductboard, and build a plenum at the back, and put 4 vents in it. Damn air compressors are loud; Farmhand from Tractor Supply is quieter. Soffit vents, turbine vent on roof. Shoot every squirrel in the neighborhood, as they see a future home. Never enough windows. Just weld and install rebar cages.
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Yes, it does but it is wood on the outside with no protection. Put both out in the weather for a while and see what one deteriorates fastest.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
1. As far as your roof 24 inches on center is too far apart when you are spanning 26 feet as far as I am concerned. I have seen too many roofs sag that are on 24 inch centers even when using plywood.

2. Todays lumber is grown too quick and isn't like the wood of 20 years ago.

3. OSB has a weather resistant (not weather proof) glue and standard plywood does not.

4. When you pour your concrete use 3500 or 4000 pound concrete not the 3000 pound. The heavier concrete will make a much stronger floor and footings.
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I've built houses for a living and must disagree with you on just a few points.

1. The 24" spacing saves building materials and when properly designed leaves no added risk. Some builders have been using 7/16" OSB for roofing; even on 16" centers with clips, this often leaves a wavy roof. 1/2" plywood with clips will span 24" centers with noticeably less wave.

2. The wood of 20 years ago is virtually the same as the wood of today, with the exceptions that grading has gone down approximately one whole step over the past 50 years and, dimensions have been reduced slightly to provide more yield per log.

3. Oriented Strand Board is highly absorbing; exposure to inclement weather will cause it to swell. Often times it is not noticeable unless you are measuring it or trying to install the above-mentioned roof sheathing clips. Plywood can also have issues with wet weather, mainly with the top ply bubbling after being left in rain storms. Compared side-by-side, plywood has a MUCH greater strength both in shear and compression.

4. Not a disagreement, just an added note. Asking the concrete provider to add fiberglass will increase the strength of your concrete tremendously. It is often used as a replacement for mesh (not rebar).
 
you can't have enough receptacles.-x2. my father in law wired his outlets so that they alternated phases of the 230v as you went around the room. Helps keep the load balanced, and reduces overloading breakers. He even made an adapter so he could run light 230v loads off adjacent outlets. when you think you have enough outlets, at least double them up. (2 duplex at each position instead of one, and that lets you use 12/3 w ground for getting both phases instead of 2x 12/2 w ground, they can share common and ground wires)
 
PacificScamp said:
I've built houses for a living and must disagree with you on just a few points.

1. The 24" spacing saves building materials and when properly designed leaves no added risk. Some builders have been using 7/16" OSB for roofing; even on 16" centers with clips, this often leaves a wavy roof. 1/2" plywood with clips will span 24" centers with noticeably less wave.

2. The wood of 20 years ago is virtually the same as the wood of today, with the exceptions that grading has gone down approximately one whole step over the past 50 years and, dimensions have been reduced slightly to provide more yield per log.

3. Oriented Strand Board is highly absorbing; exposure to inclement weather will cause it to swell. Often times it is not noticeable unless you are measuring it or trying to install the above-mentioned roof sheathing clips. Plywood can also have issues with wet weather, mainly with the top ply bubbling after being left in rain storms. Compared side-by-side, plywood has a MUCH greater strength both in shear and compression.

4. Not a disagreement, just an added note. Asking the concrete provider to add fiberglass will increase the strength of your concrete tremendously. It is often used as a replacement for mesh (not rebar).
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Very true, specify commercial fiber, about $5 more per yard, then get rid of the hairs sticking up with a propane torch.
 
Not trying to start an argument, put the trusses on my shop span 30'. I have built with trusses that span 65'. The trusses are engineered for the span and wind load.
 
Heres the Cudacave while under construction last year. 10' sidewalls are not tall enough to have a full size lift, better go 12', or 10' studs with a couple courses of block. The Cudacave is 28x36 and is stick built with a 9/12 pitch and 2x12 rafters for future insulation. Also has a second floor with stairs inside the garage. The headroom upstairs is awesome and considered a bonus room. In my opinion, I would stick build the roof as attic trusses don't provide near enough storage, and you would need a pull down stairway to access it. 2' centers are also not as strong as 16", and I would never use plywood on the roof. I have torn off way too many plywood roofs because of plywood delamination than I would like to count. Unless you use 5/8" or better on the roof, the cheap 3,4 , or 5 ply plywood is all junk. OSB is a superior product and will lay flat much better than plywood ever will. Plus, try hauling 5/8" plywood up the ladder to do your roof. You'll surely notice the difference in weight!!! IMO, 26x36 is already too small!!!LOL!!! Build it BIGGER!!! Geof
 
I have looked at a lot of floor hoists and most 2 post types require 12 ft. ceiling. The posts and overhead tie bar are at 11'6". I made provisions for a hoist with 5 inch reinforced floor and 220V, 30 amp outlet for the pump unit. I just finished the 12 ft ceiling and don't have $$ for hoist yet.
 
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