warped intake

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ap6street

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i have warped the front of my intake indy. after lack of patience trying to remove.
warped is an understatement . its at least a 2mm gap in the center .
can something like this be fixed from a machine shop ??
ill try put up a picture soon
 
What engine, what is the massaged, on the top end . Be perfect , In your question ,and awnser......
 
indy 360-3 intake small block ,

45381848_261336387897201_3479750802065588224_n.png
 
where on the intake is this and is it warped or is it bent from a pry bar ?
 
If this is along the front edge, I would just try to fill it with RTV, as long as both sides up front seal on the heads well.
 
Just use a press. Support the bottom and push down from the top in the center with the press ram. If it bent with a prying motion, you will get it pretty close by pressing it back.
If you don't have access to a press, get creative with a floor jack, or whatever kind of jack you have at your disposal.
This looks fixable.
 
Since I don't have a press I would have to try what I have on hand. A stick of straight steel ( angle or square tubing, something doesn't bend easy ) with 3 C clamps. Outer clamps tight to form. Center clamp and maybe another stick of steel outside to push. I would shoot for straighter, not perfect. As stated above, RTV would probably seal it as it is.
 
Put that edge on a board and use another wood piece and knock it back down.
I seriously doubt that much movement would crack it.
OR, just leave it and let the RTV take care of it.
That wouldn't stop me from using that intake, and I wouldn't be scared of it either.
 
at first i was thinking the silicone would be fine, it measures 1.7mm or 0.07"
but theres is a hairline crack on one side .

but i am starting to think for a good head welding place shouldnt be too hard of a fix.

45380279_2248873318664262_2020503880491597824_n.jpg
 
i love working on cars , but sometimes my patience gets the better of me.

for future note does anyone have a good system to remove an intake. never seen one stuck this bad.
was gonna try the engine crane but didnt have one at the time.

started with soft pry bars, but the sides were like concreted down
 
Don't bend it back, you may cause crack to spread. Id drill the edge of the crack to stop it's propagation and then torque intake back down and epoxy the crack. You could also put some wax paper under the china wall while your at it and backfill that crack with epoxy to create a new flat surface. The wax paper should allow you to peal it off after it sets up to give you a new flat sealing surface. Forget welding, epoxy is so much easier to use and it sets up like cement.
 
Main reason I suggest trying some way to flatten it back down is because I wonder if the head surfaces of the intake are no longer flat. If it bent up that far in the center, it probably pulled the bottom of the head surfaces in.
If the heads are still on the engine, set the intake in place with no gaskets and shine a light on that area to see if the top edges are touching and bottom edges are not.
 
pishta said:
Don't bend it back, you may cause crack to spread. Id drill the edge of the crack to stop it's propagation and then torque intake back down and epoxy the crack. You could also put some wax paper under the china wall while your at it and backfill that crack with epoxy to create a new flat surface. The wax paper should allow you to peal it off after it sets up to give you a new flat sealing surface. Forget welding, epoxy is so much easier to use and it sets up like cement.
Click to expand...
That's why I did not advise to brand back.... the material is already fatigued. Good advice above, IMHO.

Check the head surfaces with a straight edge. The head flanges are thicker so I'd hope it would not bend with that crack relieving the tension. Plenty of other ways to check the head-flange-to-head fit.
 
ap6street said:
for future note does anyone have a good system to remove an intake. never seen one stuck this bad.
was gonna try the engine crane but didnt have one at the time.
Click to expand...
Use razor knife to cut into as much rtv on the end rails as possible, to help loosen it up.
 
cut out all the silicon front and back like butter, but couldnt get a blade of any time down the side at all.
 
What gaskets were used during installation? Any rtv used on the head surface gaskets during last installation?
Sounds like you did it right during removal, just wouldn't come loose.
 
That crack is there because the curving pulled it there, not because of the amount of warp curve.
That probably also means the head surfaces are ok because the aluminum pulled away instead of curving the head surface.
That being the case, I would press fresh mixed JB weld into the crack and then knock the warped center back down and I'd bet 100 bucks it's fine.:D

The smile means I'm not actually betting 100 bucks, but that's how I would go about that repair.
 
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