Water… Distilled? Purified? Hose??

-
dusterdoug

dusterdoug

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
1,102
Reaction score
315
Location
Tracy, CA
Hey all,

What water ya been running in your high HP street cars for cooling?

Distilled? Purified??

Talk to me…
 
Always distilled. It's the cleanest water that's easily available. All heat transfer processes leave deposits behind, both on the heat source and the heat rejector. Using distilled minimizes that as theres less dirt, minerals, etc in the water to start with.
 
I run Antifreeze in Tampa FL , if I Caint get distilled, I go for Distilled/ Ozonated ,(sp?) Keeps me at 185 in summer here. And it gets warm here
 
Spend the money and buy Evans coolant. Water even with rust inhibitors and such is not the best for the system.
 
Distilled Water with the 50/50 mix of anti-freeze, don't forget the anti-freeze.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
Whatever you buy make sure it's for Aluminum, especailly if you have aluminum intake, heads and/or Radiator.

I buy premix or whatever works with the build and distilled water, 1:1 ratio unless the manufacture says different.
 
Last edited:
I use water straight from the hose. In the colder months I’ll mix some cheap antifreeze into it.
I once got some “water” out of a ditch to put in my old jeep.
 
Distilled. its available in any decent supermarket.
50/50 with 'Conventional' anti-freeze.
I've learned my lessons the hard way. Much cheaper in the long run. Copper radiators and heater cores are expensive to repair and replace. Rusted out core plugs even more so.

By "conventional" it must have an inorganic anticorrosion additives including phosphate and silicates. Usually colored green, but beware some companies market a greenish "universal" that is a HOAT.
Propelyne glycol is not a solution to corrosion. It also needs corrsion inhibitors. (I invistigated this when we needed a highly efficient coolant for an industrial chip writing machine. ) That's true whether its the safer version sold in the general market, or the no-water version.
 
Last edited:
Keep in mind that a Chrysler cooling system is an open system.
The cap only pressurizes when vapor builds pressure in the top tank.
The overflow tank, if there is one, is open to atmosphere.

OATs and HOATs work best when given time to build up in a closed system.
1686586768124.png

www.forabodiesonly.com

Green antifreeze or coolant as some call it.

Well, the radiator is copper, and I assume the heater is too. It is not connected at the moment, for whatever reason. But the tubes that comes out of the firewall is copper. The question about overflow and that stuff, I have no clue. It is a stock 1965 Slant Six radiator. Bill No overflow...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com

www.forabodiesonly.com

best antifreeze for old cars

Chryslers new antifreeze flavor is GO5(HOAT), it's kind of a gold color. I use it on any car with aluminum components as it reduces electrolysis, because I'm too lazy to drain it every couple years. They sell additive packages so you don't have to replace the coolant but I don't know if that...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
 
PH is also a factor to be considered.
A lotta missing metal around the cooling ports is electrolysis, I was taught to also check PH when checking antifreeze, and adjust as nec .
Marine engines have sacrificial zincs in misc diff metal items in the cooling systems.
 
Mattax said:
Keep in mind that a Chrysler cooling system is an open system
Click to expand...
Assuming you have the OEM correct cap.

There are caps (I have one) that does not hang open, so it starts to pressurize as soon as the coolant starts to heat and expand.



Personally I don't like waiting till my antifreeze is at the point of localized vaporizing before it start pressurizing the system.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Spend the money and buy Evans coolant. Water even with rust inhibitors and such is not the best for the system
Click to expand...
This link is from a competitor to Evans but raises some interesting issues.

No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers.


Not to mention that Evans is 100% propylene glycol or a ethylene glycol / propylene glycol mix

Technically you could just run straight rad fluid and save 25.00 per gallon.
 
Dana67Dart said:
This link is from a competitor to Evans but raises some interesting issues.

No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers.


Not to mention that Evans is 100% propylene glycol or a ethylene glycol / propylene glycol mix

Technically you could just run straight rad fluid and save 25.00 per gallon.
Click to expand...

I read it. It doesn’t match my results using the product. I can get my engine and cooling system 100% clean. It’s not that hard.

As for the remarks about increasing the need for higher octane, that’s the opposite of what I’ve seen. I’ve also new seen Evans cause that much of a temperature rise over water or any other product.

It doesn’t require a pressurized cooling system. If one considers that one element, more guys would start using it.
 
I have used tap water my whole life. Engine is full of metal crap anyway. Can’t see that it matters. Just an opinion.
 
distilled water and Zerex Original Green. The distilled water is 1.29 a gallon at Safeway... don't be cheap.
 
I am definitely not looking for cheap, just cool. I have a 440 stroker small block, long duration cam, and an Eastwood crossflow aluminum radiator along with a Derale 2100 cfm 2 speed fan. With a Flow Kooler mechanical pump, it would get to 210-215 after about 30 minutes of cruising around town (in 95 degree heat) and I would quickly head to the house! I have since changed to a Speedmaster electric water pump and will road test that soon.

This all prompted me to think about the coolant. Right now, I have hose (well) water and 1.5 bottles of Water Wetter. I just bought an additive called Engine Ice to try also - Engine Ice
 
dusterdoug said:
I am definitely not looking for cheap, just cool. I have a 440 stroker small block, long duration cam, and an Eastwood crossflow aluminum radiator along with a Derale 2100 cfm 2 speed fan. With a Flow Kooler mechanical pump, it would get to 210-215 after about 30 minutes of cruising around town (in 95 degree heat) and I would quickly head to the house! I have since changed to a Speedmaster electric water pump and will road test that soon.

This all prompted me to think about the coolant. Right now, I have hose (well) water and 1.5 bottles of Water Wetter. I just bought an additive called Engine Ice to try also - Engine Ice
Click to expand...

The "type" of water you use won't have an effect on how cool your engine runs. It only affects how much deposits will build up in your cooling system over time.

It might be best to change the title of the thread or start a new one asking for solutions to your hot-running issue. My first guess is your fan and/or shroud setup is restrictive or not moving enough air, if it's only happening in low-speed stop-and-go driving. IIRC 2100 CFM isn't close to being enough air flow to cool an engine like that.

Next guess is your engine doesn't have enough initial/base ignition advance.
 
From a company that makes radiators. Use Distilled, Demineralised or Reverse Osmosis [ RO ] water.
 
Don't use dexcool, it doesn't mix well with others. My PT has had hoat in it for years. Black one gallon jug. Bought from the Chrysler dealer. About $25 a decade ago. Its a peach color. It still looks like new in the plastic overflow tank. The engine is cast iron with an aluminum head.

That chart may be wrong. I saw a new 2015 Chrysler 200 in the showroom and it had purple colored coolant in it. ???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top