Water in #6 cylinder?

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I agree with all who said the head surface needs to be cleaned up. I agree with Redfish that there seems to be a problem with the #6 chamber. There's a crack that seems to appear in each of your pictures that does not appear to be a camera flash shadow. It may be worth your while to get that area checked with magnaflux. Your machine shop ought to be able to do it.
 

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If you did the same kind of job on both heads then both need to come off and be cleaned. Other wise a month down the road you will be doing it all over again.
 
Can that block be saved by sleeving the bad cylinder???
 
that sucks man. Im sorry to hear. It will be even better now with a fresh 340. :)

Other then the cracked cylinder it was sounding pretty good.

I agree with all who said the head surface needs to be cleaned up. I agree with Redfish that there seems to be a problem with the #6 chamber. There's a crack that seems to appear in each of your pictures that does not appear to be a camera flash shadow. It may be worth your while to get that area checked with magnaflux. Your machine shop ought to be able to do it.

Thanks 2 Darts, the heads were not the problem, the block is cracked.
pressure test the head for shts n gigls.

so I'm gonna assume the machinist could not sleeve it?

I am going to check when I take the other block in. Worse case is I end up with two blocks if it can be sleeved.

If you did the same kind of job on both heads then both need to come off and be cleaned. Other wise a month down the road you will be doing it all over again.

Thanks for the help. On page 2 I have discovered the block is cracked.

Can that block be saved by sleeving the bad cylinder???

Going to check on that tomorrow. If not I will make a coffee table out of it. :-D



After my first post I pulled both heads and swapped out another set I had and yes I cleaned them alot better. Same problem. But car still ran strong believe it or not. After the head change it seemed fine idling for @20 min in the driveway and even on my short drive to check my kickdown. It was after I shut her down and it sat for 20 min that the cylinder filled back up.
That is when I started searching for an alternative and decided to score the extra block while I had the shot. I then pulled the engine and tore it down and noticed the crack coming up from the bottom of the cylinder. At least i've stopped chasing the problem, which is a relief to me for now. I'm sure something else will challenge me before its done.

Isn't this fun. I will prevail in the end, it just might cost more.:-D

Thanks for the help. I will try to keep updated.
 
Im sorry to heard about this dude. I hope it all turns out okay and you get your 340 going. I have a bare 340 block in my trunk and I am getting it hot tanked and checked to make sure it is good to go. My main worry is me assembling it.
 
Im sorry to heard about this dude. I hope it all turns out okay and you get your 340 going. I have a bare 340 block in my trunk and I am getting it hot tanked and checked to make sure it is good to go. My main worry is me assembling it.

Thanks DarTT. I was just cleaning any extra oil off my pistons for the machine ship and noticed a cracked skirt on the #4 piston. :angry7:

AAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Time for a beer or 6.
 
Thanks DarTT. I was just cleaning any extra oil off my pistons for the machine ship and noticed a cracked skirt on the #4 piston. :angry7:

AAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Time for a beer or 6.
A tip from one of my old managers was to take a fine/very fine coarse pad and very gently run it over it in quick passes to make sure everything is clean on the mating surfaces and seals nicely and then used silicon the headgasket on both sides to ensure sealage. This is how I was taught to do it by an older gentleman who is well-known in this area for his quality of worksman ship.

And to those of you that are immediately gonna step up and bash silicon, I saw it used on an intake and the customer came back a month or two later because of a stuck valve, after the bolts were removed on the intake. It wouldn't budge nor was it even weeping a drop of antifreeze. It ended up taking, not one, but two prybars to get this intake to budge. It may be a pain to get off, but it does its job wonderfully.:-D
 
lot of difference between an intake and a head. if it squeezes into the small water holes in the heads they will have hot spots and they will crack. maybe you are right but not in my motor.intake gaskets yes,head gaskets no.
 
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