wave snap ring question ?

[fastback383]

I have read on several different web sites and also in a car mag I have (Mopar Action, Feb,92 page 56 ) about replacing the wave snap ring with one from a turbo 400 that is .060 thick. This is said to improve the firmness of shifting. Has anyone tried this ? Is it reccomended or not ? Also, if so , do you do it to both the front and the rear clutch? Also,is it wise to add a 4.2 ratio apply lever to a transmission that has a turbo action cheetah manual valve body in it ? Will this make the trans shift harder in all gears ? Sorry for all the questions , but I want this thing to really smack into each gear. And yes I know the turbo action does not have low band apply, but I like them, had one years ago and it worked great. Thanks, fastback383.

 

[Guitar Jones]

I like to use flat snap rings in the front drum but you still need to set the proper clutch clearance. Just putting in a .060 snap ring may not be wise without checking the clearance. That's why those snap rings are selective.

I do not replace the wavy spring in the rear clutch drum, again set the proper clearance.

EDIT: Just to clarify the rear clutch drum is applied in all forward gears so removing the wavy ring from there won't change the way it shifts, just the way it shifts into forward gears from neutral or reverse.

A 4.2 lever is fine with the T/A valve body, no it won't make it shift harder in every gear, it does improve the holding power of the front band which is second gear.

And if you really want it to smack into gear make it a clutch flite. With no converter to soften the blow they are just brutal. BTW if you have a loose converter you aren't going to feel it shift hard.

 

[fastback383]

Thanks for the feedback Guitar, I appreciate it. The 4.2 and the 3.8 lever seem to be difficult to locate around these parts. I can get the 5 from Mopar performance no prob, should I use that or just leave it the way it is ? Thanks again. Dave.

 

[Duster346]

Hey Dave,

I can provide you various 2nd gear band apply levers if you look here on my site.

As far as the wavy ring in the forward (rear) clutch retainer, I agree with GJ, there is no need to replace it with a flat snap ring.

Are you trying to remove the play between the input hub and the clutch retainer drum?

 

[fastback383]

Hi Chris, I have not even taken it apart yet. I am just trying to put togethor a half decent trans for my car. I have a little better motor going in it this summer, nothing wild. Just a cast piston 383, .484 purple shaft, 452's with 2.14 intake and the 1.81 exhaust valves ,ported with the MP Kit 452's, 3500 convertor and 3:91's etc. So I just want to freshen up the trans and improve it a little. I bought a rebuild kit, new band, clutches, and also a turbo action valve body. I have been reading that everyone changes to the 4.2 levers. So in your opinion do I need to do this? It is mostly just a cruise night car, with perhaps 3 or 4 trips to the track in the summer. I am just out to improve the shift and reliability is all. Thanks for your input guys, I really appreciate it. Dave.

 

[Guitar Jones]

I use a 5.0 lever in my 904 without problems. They are easy to get from MP and I had gotten a couple for free when the dealership I was working for was cleaning house.

 

[fastback383]

I think I might just buy the 5.0 and be done with it. Only because I am the impatient type. This is holding me back from starting on the trans. I can get the 5.0 in a day or 2. Nothing against you Chris, by the the time I get done sending you the money and it gets shipped to me AND goes through Canada Customs it might take several weeks until I get yours. Even if the 5.0 lever requires a band adjustment a little more often, I only put maybe a thousand miles on it last summer . I appreciate all the input guys, thanks. Dave aka fastback383.