Weighing my options

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Brandon6849

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I currently have a 1973 Dart with a 360 Auto. But was thinking about good 383 Big Block probality Auto. right back. But would my passing gear linkage still work, if i keep it? Would i need to change torsion bars I guess what i'm asking is if i was to make the switch what would i need or would it be better just to stay with the 360 and build it? I just like the ideal of a Big Block in a small car. I appreciate any help Thanks.
 
Some times you need a big block to carry heavier baggage. A small block was always sufficient for me . It was the right side suspension that I had to up grade just a tad. They should have mounted the bumper jack on the left. It really throws off the weight distribution when taking a passenger.
 

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Oldmanmopar said:
Some times you need a big block to carry heavier baggage. A small block was always sufficient for me . It was the right side suspension that I had to up grade just a tad. They should have mounted the bumper jack on the left. It really throws off the weight distribution when taking a passenger.
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I don't think an a body can handle that. Might need a 3/4 or 1 ton pick up to move that around.
 
I would not swap out a 360 for a 383...23 cubic inches but a hundred lbs on the nose..plus you need a new transmission...headers...which are fenderwells.......motor mount adapters....

if you want BB power stroke that 360.....
 
1970Duster said:
I don't think an a body can handle that. Might need a 3/4 or 1 ton pick up to move that around.
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Wait until she here's what you just said about her.! Maybe she'll let me sell her Omni. It gets chilly in there in the winter driving around with her door open.

Sometimes she lets me drive. You all would not believe how those cars go around right turns. There are time it sticks so well she loses grip on the seat and slides my way. And usually once she absorbs that seat its hard to pop her off.
 
The 383 and 360 have real similar potential and they can both be stroked for more cubes, but when it comes to lifting the hood, nothing draws a crowd like the big block. With that said, I would do the exact same suspension/brakes for either motor, too (bigger torsion bars, sway bar, etc.).

The build is for you, though...
 
I'm gathering parts to build a decent 383 over the winter for my Duster, the 340 has been fun but now i want to go bigger. The 340 will probably end up on the chopping block to help pay for the big block build.
 
The thing about a 360 it is not a typical Dodge motor meaning big bore small storke. if i could i would bore the 360 block out and insert a 318 crank and make a 340 but i don't know about the whole spacer bearing think. I talked to a machine shop and they said it would work fine. it's just my cousin has a 383 and offered to me and it just got me to thinking.
 
if your building a street motor, go with the 383, more torque and easier to find horsepower than a 360. same goes for the stroker. if your going to stroke, you may as well get as many cubes as you can, that would be the 383 as well.
the guys who say 360, never had a 383 in an abody. lol
 
What's the end goal?

You can build a 360 to be pretty damned potent...I don't disagree with Jim that a big block will draw a crowd, as I have a 383 in my garage with intent to build it up a little. Not that a sweet running SB won't draw some attention too.
 
there is always more than just an easy switch. it is going to be motor, trans, motor mounts, headers,and maybe torsion bars but not sure on that one
 
Brandon6849 said:
The thing about a 360 it is not a typical Dodge motor meaning big bore small storke. if i could i would bore the 360 block out and insert a 318 crank and make a 340 but i don't know about the whole spacer bearing think. I talked to a machine shop and they said it would work fine. it's just my cousin has a 383 and offered to me and it just got me to thinking.
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that is about the stupidest thing i have read in along time...LOL....why would you want to down grade the 360 engine....
 
How can that be stupid? I always thought the 340 was king of all Chrysler small blocks. Everybody knows that from the factory the 340 could walk all over the 360 anyday so why would it be stupid to want a better motor?
 
One advantage the 383 does have is it's tremendous rod to stroke ratio of 1.88. chebbie guys would sell their wives and mamas for that. A lot of people discount the 383, but it IS a big block. They will make about the same power as a comparable 440. They simply have to spin higher to do it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
One advantage the 383 does have is it's tremendous rod to stroke ratio of 1.88. chebbie guys would sell their wives and mamas for that. A lot of people discount the 383, but it IS a big block. They will make about the same power as a comparable 440. They simply have to spin higher to do it.
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True but why not start with a 400, more cubes more parts available same weight .
 
Which factory 360 had the compression of a 68-71 340?

None of them.

Why would you want to pull stroke out of a 360? Building a comp eliminator engine?

Buy pistons to raise compressi0on on the 360 and run it, no fancy stuff required. With a good tune, mild cam, headers, intake, carb it would be capable of 12.50 or better et's in a good chassis.
 
Brandon6849 said:
How can that be stupid? I always thought the 340 was king of all Chrysler small blocks. Everybody knows that from the factory the 340 could walk all over the 360 anyday so why would it be stupid to want a better motor?
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you are stuck in a time warp?...it is not 1971 nor 1974....yes from the factory the 340 was faster...but today in 2013 are you going to build a 360 to 1974 standards with 8.5 compression,,..and smog laden carb..intake..timing?

Build the same..compression...head..intake ...carb....the 360 is going to be faster...
 
The only thing i'm trying to say is that you start with what the factory gives you. The 360 got only like 245 hp and the 340 got like 275-300 depending on what carb. set up you have. But sure you can build anything to make one motor better than the other. I have just never really herd stories about had bad a 360 was, i have herd that 340 were mean. I'm just trying to all this on a budget and trying to plan ahead to make the best decision for myself. I just want a street car with a little muscle behind it. Which is why the tread started out "Weighing my options." To decide how hard it would be to put a 383 in my car.
 
Brandon6849 said:
The thing about a 360 it is not a typical Dodge motor meaning big bore small storke. if i could i would bore the 360 block out and insert a 318 crank and make a 340 but i don't know about the whole spacer bearing think. I talked to a machine shop and they said it would work fine. it's just my cousin has a 383 and offered to me and it just got me to thinking.
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70aarcuda said:
that is about the stupidest thing i have read in along time...LOL....why would you want to down grade the 360 engine....
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Brandon6849 said:
How can that be stupid? I always thought the 340 was king of all Chrysler small blocks. Everybody knows that from the factory the 340 could walk all over the 360 anyday so why would it be stupid to want a better motor?
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:happy1::happy1:

Might want to listen to a few of these folks.....they have probably forgotten more about Mopar small blocks than you will ever know....
 
they can all be made to be quick. slant /6 , 318, 340, 360, 383, 400, 413, 440

all can be stroked. aluminum heads. large intake/exhaust valves. large intake/exhaust ports. etc.

how much money do you want to put into it?

like crackedback said, you can just put good compression pistons in the 360 and it'll run like a 340. somewhere around 10:1

Buy pistons to raise compression on the 360 and run it, no fancy stuff required. With a good tune, mild cam, headers, intake, carb it would be capable of 12.50 or better et's in a good chassis.
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if you can get a set of aluminum heads it's gonna cost you but will lessen the weight and handle the compression better without pinging.
there are some nice combos you can build.

a big block will give you gobs more power. but you use the same basic principles to build them up. find a good local machine shop that knows mopar builds, they can give you a bit of guidance.

like the 383 you could build it balls to the wall and run low 10's if your rear/chassis can handle it. some guy on moparts built one with a lightweight rotating assembly, aluminum rods custom pistons, lightened crank... he shifts it at like 7500 rpms lol and runs high 9's in a heavy car... naturally aspirated no nos.

but again it's what kind of money did he spend to do that...

find a good local engine builder they can give you options and info. save up some money, run what you got for now until the new is ready to drop in.
 
Just what are you after? 12s 11s or 10s? Or just a good street bruiser? Whats the budget? Look around see what these guys are doing with the 408s and tell me you still want a 340. IMO 340 is like a trophy engine they had there place 40 years ago. But with more available the 360 is your best builder.
 
The best part is the OP states...

Brandon6849 said:
I'm just trying to all this on a budget
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Ain't nothing budget about removing a SB and installing a BB when you get everything together! At least with the 360, it's a straight swap for the most part with any other SB in your car now. No new headers, transmission, driveshaft, etc. All that stuff adds up fast.

Put KB107's in the 360 with stock everything else and it would run pretty good. Want to stroke it, then do the 360 and it will stump pull if you want. A 383 with equal compression and parts won't be running away from a 360, I've killed lots of 383's and 440's over the years with SB cars. So what how they were built in the 60-70's and the power ratings.

Why do people dog 72-73 340's... because they are just like a 71-73 360 with a 4 barrel carb... :)

Like one of my friends here says often... "just another big block embarrassment..."
 
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