Weight difference

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Scampin

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Anybody know the difference in weight between a 9" drum spindle and a 10" drum spindle? Thinking of switching my front brake setup, but it requires a 10" drum spindle.
 
Unless you are in super competitive, heads up racing, it's irrelevant.
 
Scampin said:
Anybody know the difference in weight between a 9" drum spindle and a 10" drum spindle? Thinking of switching my front brake setup, but it requires a 10" drum spindle.
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I can't remember if I "scaled" it, but when I went from a 7.25 rear to the 8.75 rear (9" to 10.25), the drum weight was definitely noticeable by feel/hand. Seemed like about a pound or more each.
 
Scampin said:
Anybody know the difference in weight between a 9" drum spindle and a 10" drum spindle? Thinking of switching my front brake setup, but it requires a 10" drum spindle.
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wilwood race brakes are very light weight and call for a 9 inch drum brake spindle. Strange race brakes call for a 73 up disc brake spindle. Much heavier spindle but stronger for landing.

We went with the 73 style and the strange brakes because you can get a 2 inch drop 73 disc spindle.

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Nice! Any idea what the spindle weighs? I'm thinking of going to tbm brakes for weight, but it doesn't make sense to do if the spindle switch will offset the weight difference of the brakes.
 
We weigh everything even the under side of the cowl we removed. What we decided when it came to the spindles we went with strength.
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On the valiant we went with a straight axle. Now that was a true weight reduction.
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Your taking your life in your hands with stupid weak *** 9” drum spindles. I wouldn’t run them on a stock street car.
 
ch1ll said:
Your taking your life in your hands with stupid weak *** 9” drum spindles. I wouldn’t run them on a stock street car.
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Are they that weak? I can't say i've ever seen a spindle break. I ran them for years, on the street, on my big block car.

He is using it in a race only application, which definitely changes things.
 
roccodart440 said:
Are they that weak? I can't say i've ever seen a spindle break. I ran them for years, on the street, on my big block car.

He is using it in a race only application, which definitely changes things.
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The bigger issue is the lower ball joint bolts. The drum spindles used 1/2" bolts there. The KH disks used 9/16", and the later 73+ 10" drum spindles and 73+ disk spindles used 5/8" bolts.

The other major difference is the diameter of the outer wheel bearing. I believe even the 10" drum spindles use a larger outer wheel bearing than the 9" drums, and the 73+ spindles use a larger one than the 67-72 10" drums. The higher the speed you run at the more that small outer bearing can be an issue.

And on that note, just weighing the spindle wouldn't be enough, you'd need to include the lower ball joints and hardware to fully capture the weight change if you're counting ounces.
 
Is there enough meat to drill out the holes in the lower ball joint to 5/8?
 
Scampin said:
Is there enough meat to drill out the holes in the lower ball joint to 5/8?
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You'd have to drill out both the spindle and the lower ball joints. The lower ball joints having enough meat would depend on the casting and how well the holes are centered in it, the castings vary some by manufacturer and by year (new manufacture vs NOS), and I have definitely seen some that didn't have a whole lot of extra material around the mounting holes.

The spindles are a lot more accurate and they redesigned the spindle when larger bolts were used to keep the strength the same (or better). Typically spindles have a pretty robust safety factor built in, but you'd be trading strength at the spindle for strength in the bolt any way you look at it.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
On the valiant we went with a straight axle. Now that was a true weight reduction.
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So as not to derail this thread, I would love to see a separate thread on this car. I've got a '67 body shell I'm wanting to start this type of operation on.
 
also of note: on the 9 & 10 spindles the lower ball joint bolts thread in, vs later when they are a bolt & nut assembly.

i have a loosie 10" i'll throw on the scale for ya later today. if the ball joint is still kicking around i'll grab that and the bolts too.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
So as not to derail this thread, I would love to see a separate thread on this car. I've got a '67 body shell I'm wanting to start this type of operation on.
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Shouldn't be long , We just moved the machine shop to a new location. The valiant is in the big building resting next to the Dump truck , excavator and heavy equipment. He is trying to get caught up on engine work to pay some bills.

I moved two of the cars back in the shop at my place. I am in the process of totally rebuilding my daughters Mini Cooper S and finishing another Gold Demon street car.

My goal was to put the Orange Duster back together first but the front sheet metal deal fell through so I'm selling it. I had a good offer and its time to let it go. My orange Duster was an original Bahama yellow V24 car. I'll miss it but I have more. and know where more are in farmers barns and fields.

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72bluNblu said:
The bigger issue is the lower ball joint bolts. The drum spindles used 1/2" bolts there. The KH disks used 9/16", and the later 73+ 10" drum spindles and 73+ disk spindles used 5/8" bolts.

The other major difference is the diameter of the outer wheel bearing. I believe even the 10" drum spindles use a larger outer wheel bearing than the 9" drums, and the 73+ spindles use a larger one than the 67-72 10" drums. The higher the speed you run at the more that small outer bearing can be an issue.

And on that note, just weighing the spindle wouldn't be enough, you'd need to include the lower ball joints and hardware to fully capture the weight change if you're counting ounces.
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I remember this now..

RMS had to use tapered ream on my spindles because they were the smaller balljoint, to work with the willwood kit he sold me back when I was using factory stuff with QA1 and Wilwood parts. I've since went to an AlterKtion.
 
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