Weird and weirder...

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grassy

grassy

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I have an led bulb in my overhead light.

I disconnected the neg off the battery and my son opened the door and it came on ? Maybe I grounded the car too well.

So I took off the positive as well.

It still went on. Alien power ??

Opened and closed sever times...it dimmed a bit but it still went on...

Is William Shatner lurking about ?

is it a capacitor type thing or should I call the national Enquirer ?

Ian
 
grassy said:
I have an led bulb in my overhead light.

I disconnected the neg off the battery and my son opened the door and it came on ? Maybe I grounded the car too well.

So I took off the positive as well.

It still went on. Alien power ??

Opened and closed sever times...it dimmed a bit but it still went on...

Is William Shatner lurking about ?

is it a capacitor type thing or should I call the national Enquirer ?

Ian
Click to expand...

Sounds like something in the circuit is storing residual power and since the led requires little to light it expended it when the door was opened. Pretty
cool though
 
Points and condenser car?

Condensers are capacitors in a way and will retain voltage for hours.
 
Oddly enough, no. Orange box w/pointless dizzy.

I am going to try what magnundart suggested..I suspect that should do it but it injected a bit of humour in a very humourless day...
 
I'd ignore it, unless you put the correct bulb in there and it lites also. Or if you experience a discharged battery condition.
 
I can just see some geek busting out a slide rule and plugging ohms law into it, and telling you exactly what component is causing it.
 
There are normally 3 capacitors in our old cars, maybe 4, but..........

The one on the coil + is out of the circuit with key shut off

So is the one on the instrument cluster

And likewise one that may / not be inside the radio on the power wire

So this just leaves the cap in the alternator Those are not very big.

If you REALLY want to chase this down, start unhooking stuff

Do you have an aftermarket radio? Is it wired "hot?"

I'm speaking here only of caps on the 12V line, the one in the distributor for points is on the ground/ neg side of the coil, and is not a factor
 
Yep a capacitor somewhere; the original ones are pretty small. Must be an aftermarket item in there somewhwere..
 
The one on the coil + is out of the circuit with key shut off

So is the one on the instrument cluster

That one is now gone..

And likewise one that may / not be inside the radio on the power wire

The original one is still there but not hooked up..

So this just leaves the cap in the alternator Those are not very big.

If you REALLY want to chase this down, start unhooking stuff

Do you have an aftermarket radio? Is it wired "hot?"

Yes...it is on a fused switched p/s

I'm speaking here only of caps on the 12V line, the one in the distributor for points is on the ground/ neg side of the coil, and is not a factor

I had actually thought coil but alternator would also be a safe bet...the alternator is an easy try so I shall later today..thanks..
 
Its merely the LEDs! The little things are a mystery.....Heres why. My Landlord noticed it with my next door neighbors Christmas lights, last year.....

They weren't home, he stopped by in the evening not after dark... and their Christmas lights what they had up, were what looked to be "on" and turns out they got a notice that the land lord wanted to have a look and see if anything was wrong (I don't blame him)

So he comes by another day and checks there side, knocks on my door, and asked to do the same on ours, ALL checks out to be working as they should........ they turned the lights on, the LED's came to a bright "life" when the switch was flipped "on".....THEN when they were turned "off" by that same switch" they seemed to remain low-slightly lighted, "on", weird huh? It gets better. you take and unplug them from where that actual set is plugged in, and they get really "dim" for a few minutes and finally burn out.......Plug them back in and they become that low lighted status, again.....

Then me, being an electrician go and get my meter, and plug it right into the same location and the electrical system in the house holds a small percent of power even after the switch is turned to the off position. The LEDs can remain semi-lighted with that low of voltage! Where-as a normal incandescent light bulb can't not "burn like it was "on", as its just not enough voltage and amperage to do so as the LEDs do......

Which means, if you replace ALL the lights in your house that are normally used in the "on" position, you'll use drastically less power and kilowatts per month, hence lowering your monthly bill by almost 2/3rd of what your currently paying now! And that my friends is a fact, my household used to have a $200 bill EVERY month, changed the normal "General lighting" in each room to Florescent bulbs, and then reading lights to LED and I've dropped my bill from what it was to under $75 a month! Haven't been over $100 a month in 2 years!! AND I got a 220 dryer, 220 hot water heater, and a 220 stove! Plus the a 220 A/C for summer and 4 110 A/cs as well!!!!! ALL currently running!
 
My car has all LED brake, turn and front marker lights.
I replaced my backup light lenses with brake/tail lenses and wired them into the brake/turn circuit of the normal lights.
So now I have 2 tail lights like normal, two turn signals on each side and four brakelights. (twice as many as factory using factory lenses)

With all that extra lighting it only draws .475 amps with them all on (parking and brakes)
You don't even see a flicker of the headlights when the brakes are applied at idle.

A single normal bulb uses about 4 times that, so it would be about 12 amps total with with my four light mods instead of less than half of one amp.
 
it sounds like this dart with the ghost lol

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=267942

attachment.php
 
Well a typical small LED pulls about 20 ma of current (yours may be more) so it should die sometime in the night if it's just discharging a small cap.
 
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