Weld in subframe connectors for 76 Duster

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Ol'forest

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Hi all, wondering does anyone know if the catalytic converter hump on the 76 dusters means that the subframe connectors US Car Tool make don't fit? I would have thought the hump would be inboard of where the rails go?
 
The hump for the catalytic converter is pretty far inboard, part of it sits under where the end of the 4 speed hump goes on the tunnel.

I would think that should be far enough inboard to be out of the way of the frame connectors. That said, I don't have a '76 (although I do have a 4 speed hump for one). If you can look under your car it should be pretty easy to tell, the subframe connectors are straight in line with the rear frame rails.

Obviously this isn't a US Cartool connector, this is one I built myself, but you can at least see where it's positioned. A US Cartool connector should land pretty much in the same place.

IMG_1808_zps23307da1.jpg
 
Thanks for that, I haven't heard back from US Car Tool, maybe they just haven't tried their connectors on a 76, but they only list up to 75.
 
You could just go get some 2x3 .180 wall rectangle tube and make them yourself...
 
Thanks for that, I haven't heard back from US Car Tool, maybe they just haven't tried their connectors on a 76, but they only list up to 75.

They probably just haven't tried it as you suggested.

The passenger side will fit fine. The only question will be the driver's side, but even if the floor is a little different around the catalytic converter hump it will only be that section, the rest of the floor didn't change. The US cartool connectors aren't a perfect fit to most floors anyway, they require some trimming to make things work.

I wouldn't worry to much about it. Worst case scenario is there's a section that you'll need to add some material into, and if you can weld in the connectors to begin with that shouldn't be a big deal.
 
US Car Tool say if it doesn't fit I can send back, but either way I agree it shouldn't be too hard to modify to fit.
 
2x3 box steel 1/8" thick is what i used. I layed it on its side and slotted the rear foot wells, and slipped em in. They stick up thru the foot wells 1/2" easily hideable with carpet. Also made my own front and rear torque boxes out of 1/8" plate sheet steel, and overlapped the rear ones over the top of my subframe connectors.

See my avatar pic and project pics for details lol.

Matt
 
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