Welded upper balljoint.

-
MoparDave

MoparDave

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2022
Messages
84
Reaction score
103
Location
Mo
Picked up a 72 dart with factory disc. Was redoing front end after removing the old ballpoint and pressing new bushings in put the new balljoint in only to find out wouldn't tighten. Fit snug and threaded in but was skipping at point of tighten. So welded top all 4 flat sides, then flipped it over and welded all the way around on bottom. Thoughts?
Run it or order new arms,if available?
 
MoparDave said:
Fit snug and threaded in but was skipping at point of tighten. So welded top all 4 flat sides, then flipped it over and welded all the way around on bottom. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Probably overkill. I usually do 4 small welds around the top, that way the heat doesn't cook the cup portion and you can just grind it off for future service.
 
Northern Grit said:
Probably overkill. I usually do 4 small welds around the top, that way the heat doesn't cook the cup portion and you can just grind it off for future service.
Click to expand...

Your probably right, I figure, will plan on replacing if ever have to change it again. Car is just a cruiser but our roads around here suck, potholes that swallow 14" tires.lol I idn't want to risk it popping out.
 
A few tack welds is all it needs. If you get the ball joints too hot it can cause problems. Most older joints are fine but at some points they started using plastic inside of them.
 
50 years might be the limit for re-using UCA's with self threading ball joints maybe?

A few tack welds should suffice, if you welded all the way around on the bottom you very well may have cooked that ball joint. If the ball joint seems ok you can run it til it wears out, sounds like this is the last go around for that UCA no matter what.
 
Total overkill. Hopefully you didn't damage the ball joint. Four good solid tack welds is all you need. I pity the fool that has to replace that ball joint next. Just throw the control arm in the garbage. lol
 
MoparMike1974 said:
A few tack welds is all it needs. If you get the ball joints too hot it can cause problems. Most older joints are fine but at some points they started using plastic inside of them.
Click to expand...

What part is plastic? It felt fine after I greased it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Total overkill. Hopefully you didn't damage the ball joint. Four good solid tack welds is all you need. I pity the fool that has to replace that ball joint next. Just throw the control arm in the garbage.
I'm sure these were the original ones I replaced. Wouldn't it allready be garbage being stripped?
Click to expand...
 
Its the wear surface inside the joint that is plastic. Used to be made of metal but as far as I know even moog has went to the plastic innards now.
There are some comparison videos out on youtube.
 
No, because tack welding them in stripped control arms is a pretty accepted practice. It's not like they're goin anywhere.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Its the wear surface inside the joint that is plastic. Used to be made of metal but as far as I know even moog has went to the plastic innards now.
There are some comparison videos out on youtube.
Click to expand...

I'll have to check other side, doing it tonight.
Nothing caught fire or smoked tho.
 
MoparDave said:
I'll have to check other side, doing it tonight.
Nothing caught fire or smoked tho.
Click to expand...
It's probably ok. Unless you got really close to the center body of the ball joint, or stayed hammerin on the weld a really long time, you probably didn't hurt it.
 
if you are daft like me....you can press the arm... if the arm can be supported under the balljoint hole and you have an appropriate inverted cone shaped foot for your press you can erm, how do i put this.... re shape the hole slighty once a considerable pressure is applied..... you may have to TAP the balljoints in up to the start of the thread.....don't go too mad. tried it went too far could get anything in....went with better set of arms.... every day is a school day :) we used some part of a press tool that the engineering shop had for stamping depressions into thick sheet. it was proabbly made in 1930, probably won't try again... But is a possible solution

you could probably achive the same by hitting it with a FB hammer right on the rim but that seemed medieval by comparison, local blacksmith or forge may be able to help if getting "Medieval on Its ***" suits the situation.

Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top