welder/welding

-
I am self-taught, which means I don't know much. I have a Hobart Handler 140 with 75/25 gas. I recently discovered that I was running the wire WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYY to fast. Slowed it down and things look much better. BUT, I still have hands that are NOT steady. I have to hold the gun with both hands (one out toward the tip) to even have a chance at going straight not shaking. Then, there is the whole vision thing. The auto-darkening helmet helps with starting position, but not so much following a line. I'm probably getting cataract surgery sooner than later so that might help. And, then the fact that I'll weld quite a bit for a week or two and then the welder sits for several months before I have something new to weld.
 
Dfr360cuda said:
On the trailer……..
I would weld it with a 6010 rod.
I would also add some gussets to stiffen it up.
Click to expand...
I agree that stick would be a good option for structural stuff, but you were replying to RAT ROD AL's comment when he said to try 75/25. I believe he was replying to the OP's post and had nothing to do with the trailer repair. Slight miscommunication I think.
 
Jim Lusk said:
I am self-taught, which means I don't know much. I have a Hobart Handler 140 with 75/25 gas. I recently discovered that I was running the wire WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYY to fast. Slowed it down and things look much better. BUT, I still have hands that are NOT steady. I have to hold the gun with both hands (one out toward the tip) to even have a chance at going straight not shaking. Then, there is the whole vision thing. The auto-darkening helmet helps with starting position, but not so much following a line. I'm probably getting cataract surgery sooner than later so that might help. And, then the fact that I'll weld quite a bit for a week or two and then the welder sits for several months before I have something new to weld.
Click to expand...
Have you tried one of these? There's no way I'd go back to unmagnified vision
lens.jpg
 
Jim Lusk said:
I am self-taught, which means I don't know much. I have a Hobart Handler 140 with 75/25 gas. I recently discovered that I was running the wire WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYY to fast. Slowed it down and things look much better. BUT, I still have hands that are NOT steady. I have to hold the gun with both hands (one out toward the tip) to even have a chance at going straight not shaking. Then, there is the whole vision thing. The auto-darkening helmet helps with starting position, but not so much following a line. I'm probably getting cataract surgery sooner than later so that might help. And, then the fact that I'll weld quite a bit for a week or two and then the welder sits for several months before I have something new to weld.
Click to expand...

I have the same rig. What settings are you running if you're butt welding regular mopar sheet metal?
 
Bodyperson said:
Another thing that makes welding difficult is safety equipment. There is no need for those big thick gloves when MIG welding. I use the thinner TIG gloves if any at all. You should wear something for the UV protection. A helmet with the biggest view is nice too.
Click to expand...
I don't use gloves at all. If you use gas and adjust the welder right, you get very little splatter. I don't wear long sleeves......unless it's cold.
 
ESP47 said:
I have the same rig. What settings are you running if you're butt welding regular mopar sheet metal?
Click to expand...
I haven't successfully done any outer sheet metal with it. Quite frankly my hands just aren't steady enough nor are my eyes good enough. I had a friend weld in the patch panels on the Barracuda with the car on one of his lifts. Getting the car higher would help with my hands, but he's done lots of sheet metal repairs. I did weld in the inner fender well on the Barracuda (using flux core), but that was all plug welds. I don't remember the settings, but probably the lowest heat setting.

20210627_132801.jpg
 
Argon is for Tig welding. You're in need of mig gas. Practice adjusting your voltage to suit your wire speed.
I'm teaching a couple of guys with their welding abilities. "Practice makes better" cos I'll never be perfect.
 
A good hood can make all the difference. Most of the time you get what you pay for. However, I tried one of those supplied air setups, and it was just okay. At $1000-2000, just not worth it for me.
 
The last few posts have mentioned PPE, and I was gonna leave it alone because I think it's personal preference, but I wanted to say some things for anyone reading who's new to it.

PPE is very important. Yes, you can get away with welding without gloves or skin protection, but you WILL expose your skin to harmful UV rays which can cause cancer. Do I weld sometimes without gloves or long sleeves? Yes. Is it stupid? Also yes.

If I'm going to be welding for any extended period of time, you bet your *** I'm gonna have my long sleeved leather coat and gloves on. It's uncomfortable, but not as uncomfortable as leaving the shop with a sunburn from welding, and DAMN sure not as uncomfortable as skin cancer. The coat was a gift from a dear friend, but they aren't very expensive. I think you can pick one up for 40 bucks or so. You'll sweat your *** off, but that's what beer is for.

While we're talking about it, do NOT breathe the fumes!! Stay clear, hold your breath, or get a respirator. DO NOT BREATHE that garbage. It will take years off of your life.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top