welder/welding

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rbkt65

rbkt65

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1st off, i cannot weld. tried and failed. was discussing this with a guy at work and he said that the welder i have can be changed to flux core and i would not have to use the argon gas. i have a lincoln pro mig 180. if this is switchable to flux core and not having to use gas, will that help me with my dog-ball welding? TIA
 
Short answer is NO , maybe you need glasses instead of thinking the gas is causing the problem. You MUST be able to SEE clearly to complete the fusion of two metals.
 
Nope. Welding is easier and neater with the shielding gas. You just need to practice. I had my 8 year old son welding beads like stacked dimes in 30 minutes. Now he's a 33 old bum. Go figure.
 
You just need to practice on scrap for a bit. Like Rob said, welding with gas is WAY easier and better than flux. Ed made a great suggestion about being able to see what you're doing. I wear my glasses when I weld. Watch some You Tube welding instruction videos. There's some good teachers on there for about any type of task. If it wasn't for You Tube.....I'd still be trying to figure out how to cut Crown Molding!!! :BangHead:
 
post a pic of a couple of practice passes. Its easy to diagnose.

post pic of how you angle the torch

Dog balls=too fast and not enough heat.....or too far away for the sheilding to do its job.

1/2" away.
clean copper sheilding cup
turn up the wire speed and see if there is a difference or slow down the movement
only use a lefty glove if you are a righty (vice/versa)

welding is life (but so is ping pong so what do I know?) :rofl:
 
You should not be using straight argon. Normally you use an argon/ CO2 mix. I don't do much if any really light sheet metal. I use straight CO2, the same stuff that is used for a cok/ pepsi machine. It is cheap and liquid in the bottle, and lasts a long time. CO2 allegedly gives you somewhat better penetration, but with somewhat more spatter.

If in doubt, crank up the gas pressure. RECHECK the book and MAKE CERTAIN you have the torch wired (where the torch meets the box) for the correct polarity.

As said earlier, there is ZERO chance flux core will help your welding.

Are you sure of the wire size, do you have a good tip (don't know if this is a used/ new machine) and is the tip the right size for the wire? I assume you are using the chart supplied for settings for a starting point. I have the older 180 Mig, not a "pro" and the chart is usually pretty darn close.

Also if there is a question as to gas flow, buy an inexpensive flow gauge, and do research to get the right range/ right one. These are a little tool you hold by hand on the end of the gun, turn the wire speed to 0, and trigger the thing and read the flow

Here is one example, not necessarily recommending this one or not

Amazon product ASIN B06XW8H8W1
 
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Gas is the way to go, just remember to turn off the gas when you're done. I'm still trying to master that one.
 
GOD DAMN SITE SOFTWARE DID IT AGAIN. WHY CAN'T IT TAKE AN AMAZON LINK!!!!????????????????????????

gauge.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
is the tip the right size for the wire?
Click to expand...
and also that the wheel that propels the wire is actually moving the wire consistently. The wheel can be confusing as its marked 0.23 or 0.24 for the OPPOSITE side. Just make sure that if you are running 0.23/24 that you are using the smaller groove.

All this may seem like a lot to check at first but once you have done it three times its "the usual" checklist.
 
67Dart273 said:
GOD DAMN SITE SOFTWARE DID IT AGAIN. WHY CAN'T IT TAKE AN AMAZON LINK!!!!????????????????????????
Click to expand...
When you reply, SOME links require you to use this site's protocol. For instance, if you reply to me on this, before you hit "post reply", look up at the top where you see the controls for the font. Go over to the right and click on the three dots. You will see a little image of two chain links. Click on that and that's how you post links that won't "just post" on their own. I agree, it's aggravating.
 
As one of the previous guys said, no straight Argon for MIG, use 80/20 Ultramix from the welding store. Straight Argon for Tig only. The nice thing I like about my Tig is I can start low amps & increase as needed with foot pedal and decrease when you build to much heat in the part. I hardly ever use my Mig anymore, once in a while I'll drag it outside to tack/weld something under a truck or car.. And yes, practice,practice,practice !
 
ALSO is that machine dual voltage? If so you may be over running the 120V limits, if you are on 120V . AND you might get a meter and attempt to check the 240V voltage under load, AKA while laying a bead. Easier with two people. Maybe your power wire is too small and or too long.
 
clementine said:
and also that the wheel that propels the wire is actually moving the wire consistently. The wheel can be confusing as its marked 0.23 or 0.24 for the OPPOSITE side. Just make sure that if you are running 0.23/24 that you are using the smaller groove.

All this may seem like a lot to check at first but once you have done it three times its "the usual" checklist.
Click to expand...
AND I have forgotten. Aren't the wheels different for flux vs solid wire? Check destructions, make sure of the setup and parts use.
 
I just recently upgraded from a little Lincoln flux core MIG to an Everlast MTS 275. After using gas (C25) for the first time I was amazed at the quality and ease of welding over flux core. I’d make sure you have the welder setup correctly and watch a few YouTube videos.
And if that fails, grinders and paint make you the welder you ain’t!
 
One thing no one mentioned. When using "gas" , don't have a breeze blowing in the welding area (fan or outside). It will blow the shielding gas away from the torch, and have a lousy weld. I usually use gas inside, but use flux core when welding outside.
I actually have three wire welders already set up. One for mild steel with gas. One for mild steel with flux. One for aluminum with gas (still trying to get decent with this). Also have a "spray" welder for doing steel to cast iron. A stick welder (buzz box). Just got a plasma cutter, that I haven't used yet.
I am not a "welder" by any stretch, just a hobbyist. My skills leave something to be desired, but I get by. It takes practice, and I don't do enough.
 
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Did anyone mention practice? Haha....welding takes hours and hours of practice. And once you think you've got it down, practice some more.

My dad taught me on an acetylene setup years ago, then I went to wire feed using flux core. Flux core welds (especially as a beginner) look terrible compared to some of the other processes. You get a lot more spatter and you have to chip away the slag afterwards. As @Charrlie_S mentioned, flux core is good for outside welding where a breeze might blow away your shielding gas.

You may need to adjust your settings. Too cold (not enough amperage) or too hot, wire feed speed wrong, travel speed wrong, wire stickout, gun angle, preparation of your material, all play a critical role in your results.

I agree on switching to a mix for mild steel. I only use argon for MIG aluminum and TIG, then I use 75/25 or 100% CO2 for MIG mild steel.

I like to illuminate my area with some sort of spot type light (not just overhead shop lighting) -- helps me see the puddle better and where I'm going without lightening my lens too much. I know guys who strap a headlamp to their hood, and someday I'll remember to get one.

Post some pictures of your welds, and hopefully someone smarter than me can decipher them.
 
Have you checked the polarity of your ground and gun? They are different for solid and flux core. It might be set wrong.
 
Has the OP been back ONCE since this thread was posted? He/ she did not even thank or agree with any of the posts
 
What six said ^^
Also, prep matters on steel even with flux core. Flux core on exhaust, get the metal as clean as possible, sand off the aluminized part, use alcohol etc. Every bit of filth translates into a dingier weld. Always thought it was the welder, turned out it was me causing the crappy welds.
 
Helps to match the wire to the metal your welding. A common mistake for novices. Chart helps, but it also depends on Flux core or solid wire
MATERIAL THICKNESS.024".030".035".045".030".035".045"
24 Gauge (.025)X
22 Gauge (.031)XXX
20 Gauge (.037)XXXX
18 Gauge (.050)XXXXX
16 Gauge (.063)XXXXX
14 Gauge (.078)XXXXXX
1/8" (.125)XXXXX
3/16" (.188)XXXX
1/4" (.25)XXX
5/16" (.313)XXX
3/8" (.375)XXX

Multi-pass welding or a beveled joint design may be required on material thickness 3/16" and greater depending on your welding machine's amperage capability.
 
One tip I will add is take your time, don’t rush. Especially on Sheet metal. Also same thing on grinding
 
.030 will weld just about anything you come across from bodymetal to 1/2''
 
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