Well I got the bad Speedmaster taste out of my mouth

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one last thing and thats... everyone running them ootb, just because the guides dont sieze..doesn't mean they arent sucking oil and ovaling the seats.
So far the 3 sets I've had have all been enormous on guide clearance. Not a big deal if you plan on pulling them after so many runs and touching them up.. but if you go daily driving ootb.. expect crusty pistons.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I’m telling you guys from the time I called and talked to them and the info and pictures were sent to the engineers it was a matter of a few months. Member Boosted joined in rattling the cage on the engineer side and the issue was fixed. Not years, not a year, I’m guessing 3 maybe 4 months max and I was even sent a thank you email notifying me it’s been handled. That’s great service in my eyes on a great intake manifold.
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Sorry, I’m a bit behind on this…. What company did you call and work with to correct what issue?

TIA
 
-Boosted- said:
Edelbrock and the issue with the Victor 340 intake manifolds having the mounting holes mis-located.
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It that the real issue or was it the port location was jambled. The holes all line up with a gasket but the port common walls don't. At least that's the issue with mine.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
It that the real issue or was it the port location was jambled. The holes all line up with a gasket but the port common walls don't. At least that's the issue with mine.
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Yes that was the issue and no longer an issue since it was fixed. The casting hasn't changed, the final machining did and that is when the mounting holes are machined (drilled) into the manifold. The foundry had the wrong tolerances in the machining profile which caused the holes to be offset. The engineering team tightened up the tolerances and modified the profile. They implemented all this between production runs without much time lost. More importantly, because it was addressed so quickly, the affected manifolds were limited to 1 batch (lot).
 
Did I ever tell you guys how much I hate final short side blending day. At that point I already have my intake port set to my desired area number and shortside shaping started. On final blending days I set my head deck to port floor desired thickness by lowering the intake floor. Then it’s blending time. The corners of the shortside are so critical and can make or break a good flowing head. I swear each corner has six different angles to set so the air goes where YOU a want it to. If it’s not right you will lose the port at .500-.575 lift.
 
TT5.9mag said:
John, can you post a pic of your chamber work please? Maybe a before/after kind of thing.
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Ok I hope you can see in this pictures what to check as soon as you get these heads as it wasn’t done in my customers set. If you look at the chamber where the black horizontal mark is. You will notice the chamber is clearanced in the chamber. That measurement should be appropriately .430-.430. My customers heads were approximately.115 thicker. I lost that number when I deleted my tech post on his heads when it got derailed in the first few posts. Now if you look at the black magic marker lower on the picture that is what I will be laying back. Especially on the intake side because the intake shortside dumps out there and it’s going close to 380fps. The black magic marker above that will be blended to their cut. The valve guide picture is the bad one I changed out. I know most guys Dont have tools to measure this so it’s a feel type of thing I recommend you obtaining.

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TT5.9mag said:
John, can you post a pic of your chamber work please? Maybe a before/after kind of thing.
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Ok here it is with it blued and marked with a 1008 Felpro gasket. Do this to an Edelbrock head and you will see the extra clearance I posted about and why the lowlift numbers are higher comparing both ported heads. This little bit of chamber work and a 2.05 valve will go 308-313. When I want to go over 325 and a 2.08 valve I would lay down that back wall some on my heads.

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Wow. Thank you so much for the pictures and a detailed response. The flow numbers you quoted (308-313 and 325 with a larger valve) are after your bowl and short side work correct?
 
That really unshrouds that side a lot... Do you ever remove that little ridge just outside where the valve seat meets the chamber? Weingartner always talks how it helps get a little flow
 
TT5.9mag said:
Wow. Thank you so much for the pictures and a detailed response. The flow numbers you quoted (308-313 and 325 with a larger valve) are after your bowl and short side work correct?
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Ohhhh ya. Everything is tubed and taken about as far as it can go. Every centimeter of both ports are worked.
 
Icetech said:
That really unshrouds that side a lot... Do you ever remove that little ridge just outside where the valve seat meets the chamber? Weingartner always talks how it helps get a little flow
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If you look in the pictures with the valves that lip was hit some with my burr. Honestly that’s all it needs but if I find a tapered sanding roll I hit a few spots when I do the final
Valve job. I use almost zero sanding rolls any more but I should buy some of those tapered rolls. I have boxes of SA sanding rolls. I must have thought I was going to live forever. Lol
 
pittsburghracer said:
Thanks but that didn’t make it right. As a mater of face they Dont offer seats or valve guides for these heads. I asked for one bare head for the time, labor, hours spent looking for parts, and I’m guessing a little over 200.00 in cash buying and trying to find parts and tools to fix their issues. The valve guide was .003 over sized and chambers weren’t machined on both heads. I talked to them on the phone, sent them pictures, four emails with zero return emails. Good luck if you find issues on these heads because it appears they just don’t care.
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They don't care. I probably got four times the emails back and forth with Jason at Speedmaster where he claims that higher-ups wouldn't do **** for me like credit on parts or something being that I paid for heads that were falsely advertised, different story so I won't go into it. The point is they don't care. Speedmaster is truly a Fly by Night Take it or leave it business. They even deleted reviews I left that were Fair and didn't have any smart-assery or anything other than my findings. They don't want anyone to know about it.
I bet you could show up on property set that head on the counter and show them and they'll stare you right in the eye and say they don't see any problem.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Did I ever tell you guys how much I hate final short side blending day. At that point I already have my intake port set to my desired area number and shortside shaping started. On final blending days I set my head deck to port floor desired thickness by lowering the intake floor. Then it’s blending time. The corners of the shortside are so critical and can make or break a good flowing head. I swear each corner has six different angles to set so the air goes where YOU a want it to. If it’s not right you will lose the port at .500-.575 lift.
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Can you elaborate on a what good flowing short side corner looks like?
 
446acuda said:
Can you elaborate on a what good flowing short side corner looks like?
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Man I sat here and thought about that question and I really Dont have an answer because so much is going on. I could sit at my bench and I have sat at my bench with a scribe pointing out what I’m trying to get the air to do. But to explain it with words I can’t. Even now I have to think about where the air is heading. Common wall cylinder wall, pushrod side, center of cylinder. Sorry that’s not a lot of help.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Man I sat here and thought about that question and I really Dont have an answer because so much is going on. I could sit at my bench and I have sat at my bench with a scribe pointing out what I’m trying to get the air to do. But to explain it with words I can’t. Even now I have to think about where the air is heading. Common wall cylinder wall, pushrod side, center of cylinder. Sorry that’s not a lot of help.
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Hard to explain and hard to draw.
 
Wow this post is from Early June and I haven’t touched this head since, until today. The last thing I did was grab the second head and I roughed in the ports touching the head bolt and pushrod tubing then I stopped. After several bad outing at the track trying to get the frontend fixed I dropped everything and made it a priority. Except honestly I hardly worked on it. I’ve been feeling like crap and lazier that a fat cat. I had a Tic I removed in early May so at my scheduled Doctors appointment I told him how I’ve been feeling and about the Tic. He had the draw blood and it came back negative Friday so I see him in six weeks to dig further. My last trip to the track was June 6th and I’m not up to going so I said to myself it’s go time and forced myself to work 2 hours in the shop so I mounted up the head and next thing I knew 2.5 hours went by. I finished the bowls, roughed in the roofs, side walls, shortside and started and finished the four exhaust ports (90% done) gotta double but them yet.

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I had a customer get ahold of me this week about doing a set of Edelbrock heads for him with 2.055 Ferrea intake valves and Ferrea exhaust valves. He is limited to an LD340 in the class he is running so if you guys are interested and he is willing to
Let me make a post about the job I will. I told him racing is a priority to me now and it may take awhile and he’s cool with it. I gotta finish these heads first to raise some racing funds so hopefully they will be done early next week.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I had a customer get ahold of me this week about doing a set of Edelbrock heads for him with 2.055 Ferrea intake valves and Ferrea exhaust valves. He is limited to an LD340 in the class he is running so if you guys are interested and he is willing to
Let me make a post about the job I will. I told him racing is a priority to me now and it may take awhile and he’s cool with it. I gotta finish these heads first to raise some racing funds so hopefully they will be done early next week.
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Please do.
 
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