What about Brodix B1-BA cylinder heads

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abdywgn

abdywgn

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so as not to hijack somebody else's thread, are these heads a viable alternative? Is there more work needed on these then other brands? What are the "Pros" vs. "Cons" of these heads? And then the old HP vs. $, are there "better" heads for less? No particular application, just balanced flow and HP increase vs. another brand of cylinder head. Thanks! Let the comments begin...if you wish.
 
What do they cost these days?
Are they actually available?

I ported a set of the DIRT legal version, which are basically the same but have a raised “SPEC” cast into the ports.
With a 2.08 intake valve those flowed 300cfm with a basic porting job.

Edit- looks like about $2350 bare, and $3600 assembled.
For that $$$, I’d use something else.

Depending on exactly what the application is, I’d basically sum it up as:
450-575hp = TF heads(also ported RPM and RPM clones)
550-625hp = Bloomer heads
600-650hp = Indy 360-2cnc230
 
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Trick flow heads will do everything that you will need. if you want to step it up from TF, get a set of Bloomer heads. couple guys on this site have had real good results with them. if you want to take it to the next level from the Bloomers, go W8-W9
 
9secRR said:
Trick flow heads will do everything that you will need. if you want to step it up from TF, get a set of Bloomer heads. couple guys on this site have had real good results with them. if you want to take it to the next level from the Bloomers, go W8-W9
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Been looking at some Brett Miller W8/9 builds crazy power he gets out of those :)
 
When I bought my set of B1-BA heads, I think they were $1900 with the titanium retainers. The engine build was for racing only. I would think for the cost PRH has mentioned, there are better alternatives now.
 
273 said:
Been looking at some Brett Miller W8/9 builds crazy power he gets out of those :)
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so have i. i'm making the switch to W8 headed engine for next season. should be a lot faster then my W2 engine.
 
When you step up to W7, W8, W9 heads you step into a whole new arena. An aftermarket block is a necessary must have and then to get the most out of them Chinese rods and cranks should be left on the shelf for American made expensive parts. Belt drives and vacuum pumps along with expensive intake manifolds. That’s a few of the things that’s should be used with the expensive pistons you will need with lightened pins for the higher rpm that you will need. Then we get into car certs and upgraded clothes for the ET’s. I’ve seen so many guys spend their 30,000.00 for these upgrades then less that a year later stuff is for sale at discount prices. Good luck.
 
pittsburghracer said:
When you step up to W7, W8, W9 heads you step into a whole new arena. An aftermarket block is a necessary must have and then to get the most out of them Chinese rods and cranks should be left on the shelf for American made expensive parts. Belt drives and vacuum pumps along with expensive intake manifolds. That’s a few of the things that’s should be used with the expensive pistons you will need with lightened pins for the higher rpm that you will need. Then we get into car certs and upgraded clothes for the ET’s. I’ve seen so many guys spend their 30,000.00 for these upgrades then less that a year later stuff is for sale at discount prices. Good luck.
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It is a different level for sure. Like you said, buy at the discount prices. I did it and that’s the only way I could step up to W8’s.

Will I like it, don’t know yet. Aluminum block, dry sump…..

Time will tell. I can always put the 355” W2 back in if I don’t like the W8.

IMG_1087.jpeg


IMG_1086.jpeg
 
9secRR said:
It is a different level for sure. Like you said, buy at the discount prices. I did it and that’s the only way I could step up to W8’s.

Will I like it, don’t know yet. Aluminum block, dry sump…..

Time will tell. I can always put the 355” W2 back in if I don’t like the W8.

View attachment 1716299398

View attachment 1716299399
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How many inches is this engine? Did this engine go across a dyno?
 
Newbomb Turk said:
How many inches is this engine? Did this engine go across a dyno?
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414”. 3.875” LA enterprise kyptonite crank, 4.125” bore.

No dyno sheets. It ran 8.40’s in a Daytona. Daytona is around 300 lbs lighter than my car. I will put my car on the scales after it’s all finished.
 
pittsburghracer said:
When you step up to W7, W8, W9 heads you step into a whole new arena. An aftermarket block is a necessary must have and then to get the most out of them Chinese rods and cranks should be left on the shelf for American made expensive parts. Belt drives and vacuum pumps along with expensive intake manifolds. That’s a few of the things that’s should be used with the expensive pistons you will need with lightened pins for the higher rpm that you will need. Then we get into car certs and upgraded clothes for the ET’s. I’ve seen so many guys spend their 30,000.00 for these upgrades then less that a year later stuff is for sale at discount prices. Good luck.
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Yep. Think Ritter, Callies, Diamond, T&D. Then another buttload for torque conv and really beefed tranny. Ford 9 inch, back half, Alterkation front. Full cage, huge slicks, skinny fronts....
Just look at 9secRR's setup. my credit card hurts just looking it over!
 
abdywgn said:
No particular application, just balanced flow and HP increase vs. another brand of cylinder head. Thanks! Let the comments begin
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A guy I used to know, wanted those BA-heads installed on his 340, and into his Challenger; in spite of me telling him there were no headers available for that combo, at that time (This was maybe 10 or more years ago) for what application?
Just so he could say his "Chally"(his words not mine), had those heads on it. All he was ever gonna do was drive it from it's air-conditioned storage building, onto/off-of the trailer, going to the car show circuit.
It took my champion welder-boss, two sets of TTI headers and countless hours to cut them up, fabricate, and then ceramic coat those headers. I'll guess that the headers cost as much or more than the heads. I'm guessing.
BTW: I was told, that 345 cuber made 499 hp. rounded up, lol

The point is this, shop for headers first, lol.
 
abdywgn said:
so as not to hijack somebody else's thread, are these heads a viable alternative? Is there more work needed on these then other brands? What are the "Pros" vs. "Cons" of these heads? And then the old HP vs. $, are there "better" heads for less? No particular application, just balanced flow and HP increase vs. another brand of cylinder head. Thanks! Let the comments begin...if you wish.
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Pittsburgh said that some of the heads have the valves too close in spacing

He could run larger intake valves in some of these heads, but not others (I think he said not as big an intake valve with Trick Flow heads)
 
StreetSleeper said:
Pittsburgh said that some of the heads have the valves too close in spacing

He could run larger intake valves in some of these heads, but not others (I think he said not as big an intake valve with Trick Flow heads)
Click to expand...

Playing around I did end up cutting a 2.05 and 2.08 valve seat on my TrickFlow heads. It’s not that the valves are closer together but the fact they used smaller seats. The final cuts end up past the seat and into the chamber. Not sure I like that.
 
The B1-BA assembled heads std pkg comes with 2.08/1.60 valves.

My only real gripes about these heads are:
-They’re not real user friendly
-They’re pretty expensive for what they are
 
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