What all do i need to take to machine shop?

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I would take pretty much all of it. Do you plan to reuse the tin? Oil pan, valve covers and the like? Timing cover? You'll want that stuff cleaned up.
 
Thanks Everyone... there is so much to think about!

I did do some searching and found a few engine machine shops within 40 miles or so of me. Other than cleaning and inventory listing my stuff, I'll plan to take a drive soon to check out a few of them and talk to the guys. I'd rather share pics with them on the first visit so I don't feel inclined to leave all my stuff at the first place I check out.
 
Once you get a feel for the kind of work they do, also see what their wait time is like- some shops are booked months (or more) out.
 
DrCharles said:
This may be obvious to some, but when pressing out rod bolts and inserting new ones, check the big ends for roundness. Sometimes they will distort a surprising amount (or may not have been correct in the first place).
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That is true, but if the bearings did not spin and no undue force was used to press the rod bolts out, I've never had that happen, and the new bolts go in the way the old ones came out, one should be good to go. With rods, it is always good to measure both bores at the proper rod bolt torque or stretch, but that takes a dial bore gage and someone who knows how to set and use one properly. Rods can always be resized, shot peened, and magneflux also. How far do you want to go, and how much money do you want to spend?
 
Take block,crank,rods,heads, balancer that will be used, flex plate or flywheel and clutch used along with any pistons you think you're using and any parts you want cleaned for paint. If their building it, bring all of it. Inventory what you take, make sure its all on the invoice too.
 
66fs said:
That is true, but if the bearings did not spin and no undue force was used to press the rod bolts out, I've never had that happen, and the new bolts go in the way the old ones came out, one should be good to go. With rods, it is always good to measure both bores at the proper rod bolt torque or stretch, but that takes a dial bore gage and someone who knows how to set and use one properly. Rods can always be resized, shot peened, and magneflux also. How far do you want to go, and how much money do you want to spend?
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Well... it's not my money I'm spending here ;) But the rod bolt is one of the most highly stressed fasteners in the engine, and that is an area I would concentrate on making sure it was right... if a bearing spins or a rod breaks, the labor and expense to repair the mess would have made it worth doing. My two cents.

OTOH, by the time the OP pays for all that work, he's still got 55 year old stock steel rods, and will be into them for nearly as much as a new set of Eagle H-beams.
 
DrCharles said:
Well... it's not my money I'm spending here ;) But the rod bolt is one of the most highly stressed fasteners in the engine, and that is an area I would concentrate on making sure it was right... if a bearing spins or a rod breaks, the labor and expense to repair the mess would have made it worth doing. My two cents.

OTOH, by the time the OP pays for all that work, he's still got 55 year old stock steel rods, and will be into them for nearly as much as a new set of Eagle H-beams.
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Not necessarily, I have 50's and 60's rods done all the time. I'm good with Mopar metallurgy from back in the 60's and 70's. I'll report back the cost of the next set of rods I have done. I'm taking a set next week. I have never bought new rods of any kind for my engines, except for my brothers 289 and those were 289 K motor HD Ford rods to replace the diminutive 5/16 rod bolt forgings. First thing is the stress, 2 barrel Chrysler 383, probably never had any stress on the crank or rods. 383 forgings are good. Time is not what matters to a rod forging it is cycling and the stress during the cycles. How many miles do you think are on those rods? The OP is getting ready to build what is in my 68 Formula S 383 right now. Two barrel 383 out of a Chrysler Newport, I just replaced the rod bolts with the Direct Connection rod bolts. Been in there since the 80's and beleive me, that 383 was never babied with a Comp Cams 268 duration and a HP 400 intake and TQ. The original 383 is on a dolly still waiting it's turn. You are right, the rod big end diameter is crucial to having a short block live along with adequate oiling.
 
re making a list of what you take in, if you have a set of number/letter punches then add something you'll know to each part (not on a machined face) and take pics. if you don't have them a simple centre punch and add 3/4/5/whatever dots to each part and again take pics. casting numbers are all well and good but you 'could' get the right casting number part back or shown to be bad that wasn't yours.
neil.
 
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