CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
I don't believe that Dynamic does not have converters on the shelf. You think a "custom" cam is really one-of-a-kind? OR that any converter is one-of-a-kind?...get real.
What budget torque converter?
- Thread starter 60Powerwagon
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Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
So, what you're saying is that I give Dynamic a call, give them all the specs for my car they will tell me it will be, so many weeks wait when they are going to send me one they have on the shelf?
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Mine have been shipped within 3 days and sometime they tell me a week. Kim
You can believe whatever you want.
And yes made to order is made to order.
Oh I'm sure they have a basic starting point but adjustments will be made for your specific Combo.
The 9.5" 3500 converter they built for my Combo will definitely be different then the same size and stall built for someone else's Combo.
Just a simple example.
Yes cams are the same deal..
Sorry man but
For someone who builds Transmissions for a living, You surprise me with a lot of your responses.
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33IMP
Well-Known Member
I could give you a few first hand experiences, with all the info you ask for (except a part #) but I wouldn't do you ANY good, because your car is different from mine....., but here goes....
My big block sixpack car has a stock 73 340 converter, that I took out of a friend's running, driving car, so I KNEW exactly what I was getting. Stock A12, 3700 lbs, 4.10 gear.
My 62 has some unknown 9", stalls 5000 behind 500 fwhp, 3300lbs, 3.91 gear.
My Tina had the unknown converter that blew up, pictured in an above post. It was replaced by a 8" munsinger, custom built for me,(now retired) stalling 5200 behind 500 fwhp, against a brake. The car picked up .2/3mph in the eighth. Weighs 2450 with me in it, 9 second street driven car, n/a small block, 4.57 gear, glide with a brake.
I have budgeted $3000 for the trans and converter I want for my Opel.
Now, does any of that info help you find a cheap converter for your car?
My big block sixpack car has a stock 73 340 converter, that I took out of a friend's running, driving car, so I KNEW exactly what I was getting. Stock A12, 3700 lbs, 4.10 gear.
My 62 has some unknown 9", stalls 5000 behind 500 fwhp, 3300lbs, 3.91 gear.
My Tina had the unknown converter that blew up, pictured in an above post. It was replaced by a 8" munsinger, custom built for me,(now retired) stalling 5200 behind 500 fwhp, against a brake. The car picked up .2/3mph in the eighth. Weighs 2450 with me in it, 9 second street driven car, n/a small block, 4.57 gear, glide with a brake.
I have budgeted $3000 for the trans and converter I want for my Opel.
Now, does any of that info help you find a cheap converter for your car?
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
Maybe he doesn't really rebuild them, he just pulls one off the shelf!
No, but they MIGHT recommend one off the shelf. Then again, maybe not.
Yep. Going back 4 pages to the first post by the OP, he has a 360 with a Voodoo 268 cam in a street car. I'm sure there are hundreds of 'off the shelf " converters that would work just fine for him.
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
That would be fine, I would trust the manufacture if they were proven to be reputable.
No question about it. Nonetheless, I'd still recommend consulting with a good converter company, simply because there is always the possibility they might can recommend something better at a similar cost. The only reason I say that is because converter technology is evolving all the time.
Furious65
C-body Guy
The right TQ is the single most important part in any setup, IMO, beating out the cam by just a hair. It can make or break any combo. Yeah, if you just want a stock cruiser then go for an off the shelf part and odds are you'll probably be very happy with it. However, if going for any type of serious performance build, then it's absolutely worth the money to get a true high performance TQ that is matched specifically to your combo.
BTW, I'm a total cheapskate but a TQ is the one place I will never cheap out. Sometimes I will really spend some money on a particular part(s) but it's because I only want to spend the money, and do the work, once. Being cheap sometimes means actually paying more.
BTW, I'm a total cheapskate but a TQ is the one place I will never cheap out. Sometimes I will really spend some money on a particular part(s) but it's because I only want to spend the money, and do the work, once. Being cheap sometimes means actually paying more.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
I will say this...I learned a lot from Hughes trans and converter videos on you tube, especially the one on stall speed,#5. It basically explains HOW a stall is adjusted
(and how a cheap converter is built inside, versus a good one).
(and how a cheap converter is built inside, versus a good one).
My buddy bought a 3000 stall back in the 80s. It seemed to work ok but the farther he drove the hotter the car got. We changed the usual suspects. He tried a couple of tranny coolers that didn’t make a difference. Switched the converter back to the factory hi stall and the over heating went away. Kim
Good Example of old vs new technology in converters.
Thanks Kim
When I ordered my 3500 Dynamic
I also told Frank that I occasionally tow boats with my car.
So he made it a little tighter.
It will still stall to 3500 though
Thats what I was trying to say in previous posts, I know the converter I bought was not off the shelf, it was built for my application with all things considered.
like towing stuff...lol
Also the 2500 Hughes converter I had was much looser and felt disconnected in town
And ran hotter
I didn't like it at all.
the 3500 drives Like a stock one
No overheat at all, I live in Phx AZ.
Even in 115 degree weather
It runs between 180-190
Thanks Kim
When I ordered my 3500 Dynamic
I also told Frank that I occasionally tow boats with my car.
So he made it a little tighter.
It will still stall to 3500 though
Thats what I was trying to say in previous posts, I know the converter I bought was not off the shelf, it was built for my application with all things considered.
like towing stuff...lol
Also the 2500 Hughes converter I had was much looser and felt disconnected in town
And ran hotter
I didn't like it at all.
the 3500 drives Like a stock one
No overheat at all, I live in Phx AZ.
Even in 115 degree weather
It runs between 180-190
And that sir is what a modern converter is capable of. No matter how hard you try, you cannot explain it to those who still live in the 70s and think a high stall converter has to slip. They just aren't like that anymore.
Furious65
C-body Guy
Ha! And everyone thinks I'm crazy because I want to put a hitch on my Barracuda to tow my dirt bike around. You got me beat!
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Who said a high stall converter has to slip? It's just the idea that every car is different is bogus. The idea that you have to consult a converter specialist about your car and wait for weeks for a converter that costs nearly a grand is just silly. Besides the fact that two identical cars might have drivers that prefer something different. Summit and Jegs sells converters off the shelf all day long..but I guess they aren't good enough for somebody that needs to be treated "special".
Turbo Action S800 series convertor for street.
They have any convertor a guy needs.
They have any convertor a guy needs.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
i can make the following statement with zero vaccilation…..
A convertor is a terrible item to cheap out on, no matter the intended usage. High performance street, street/ strip, or strip.
Also, convertor technology has come a long ways. Tons of guys drive drag week street/ strip cars hundreds of miles with 8 inch 5000 flash+ converters….without issue.
Any car I was even remotely interested in getting to run good, I would skip right over the 3500 type converters.
They are forever going to leave substantial ET on the table.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
not silly at all, actually sensible.
Go to any track, go down the row, car after car, virtually nobody would agree with your above statement, including me
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
You're talking about track cars.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
same is true with anything else. Good convertor is worth buying
Rocketperformancetrans
Active Member
there is no way to check a converter with out cutting it open. I have been in the transmission business since 1979. yes I have seen guys stick snap ring pliers and check the sprag in stator but there is no way you can put the same amount of torque that is produced by an engine. if you attempt to flush a converter there is no way of knowing you got the torrington bearings clean.
this converter is out of a 42RLE
truck came to my shop customer installed a salvage yard unit, with a used converter he bought on ebay.
advice... dont cheap out on a converter, have one built for your application, ATI, Pro torque, do excellent work, great customer support and have been in business over 30 years
transman
Well-Known Member
Around 2200/2500 is what I remember getting in the Duster. A real 340 converter has been hard to find for a number of years. At the converter company I worked for in the past, 340 converters were core in first.
transman
Well-Known Member
Short of cutting a converter open, there is now way to know if it's clean or not or if anything else is wrong with it. Crap (clutch material for example) gets stuck in the pump and impeller vanes and is impossible to clean them out properly without cutting open the converter.
In my opinion, used converters are cores or good door stops.
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