What Calipers

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Aaron

Aaron

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I was rebuilding my calipers and found that the pistons are rusted in patches on the sides. I plan to order some calipers. Will 76 A-Body calipers work on my 74 Duster? I have slider calipers right now, are all 76 A-body calipers sliders, or is there a possibilty of ordering pin-type without knowing it? I understand the 76 calipers have a larger piston and are a good upgrade. Are the Phenolic Piston's a bad thing(do they bind or warp???)? Or should I ask for Steel? Best place to order these?
Thanks
 
You won't get the pin type as these were used mostly on E body's.
All A body cars had the sliders.
If you go to Napa or such for rebuilds you don't get much choice.

Don't know about the larger piston on 76 cars, any one!
 
I know the 73-74 Satelites/Road Runners/GTX's all used a pin style caliper also. I Never heard of a larger piston caliper (not saying it don't exist though) in 76, so if there is such a thing I too would like to know. I had 2 rebuilt calipers some time back that I had taken out of one car that I had run DOT 5 in (back when everyone still thought that DOT 5 was THE way to go) and I took them apart to clean them up and found one had a stainless steel piston or chrome platted (don't remember which but I know it was one or the other) the other was just regular plain steel. The plain one had pitting and minor rust starting, the fancy one was a pristine and new as if it had never benn outta the box. I would be for searching for rebuilts like that if I were you (and I will be searching for another like that one of these days), these were both purchased side by side at the same parts store, so not all reman stuff is alike. Not even when they are from the same company.
 
Well, I just went to the parts store after work and ordered the 76 sliding calipers. They were 15.00 each, and should be here first thing in the morning. I understand that the 73-up single piston sliding calipers have a 2.6" piston, while the 76 up have a 2.75". I found that in the Performance Handling for Classic Mopars book. It recommends them as an upgrade. I will install them as soon as they arrive post if they work or not.
Thanks!
 
Stray towards steel pistons, but the best are stainless. The phenolic don't hold up to well turning egg shaped, and tend to distort when pushing them back in the caliper. They are good for one or two sets of pads, depending on your driving habits.
 
Wow I have bad luck today. I got EVERYTHING put together and ready. I am in the middle of bleeding the brakes and get to the right front side. I finish bleeding it and tighten the bleed screw and it BREAKS OFF! I mean CLEAN OFF nut and everything. And on top of that, the nut and tip part of the bleed screw managed to lodge itself between the rotor and the dust shield and is rattling around in there. SOO now I have to remove the rotor just to get the tip out, AND I need to buy another caliper. If the brake is bleed and the thing is tight, do I need to replace the caliper right away? It doesnt leak from what I can see. Any ideas on this?
Thanks
 
Use an easy out to yank out the broken bleeder. Only cost around 10$ for a set. Good to have anyway.
 
Will the easy-outs work on a Russel Speed-Bleed screw without too much trouble? Are those more fragile or something?
 
I would think they should work. As far as being more fragile I don't know. But there is more machine work on them compared to normal ones in order to put the spring and check ball in. But it should still be hollow and that's what you need to use the easy out.
 
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