What cam to use?

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john.saylor

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I have a 64 Barracuda with a 1975 360 and 70 J heads,4 brl highrise stock exhaust manifolds but looking for headers and 4 speed. What cam can I use without changing the valve springs? as much lope as possible.
Thanks
 
The OE springs can't take much lift at all. Do yourself a large favor and just simply purchase the springs with the cam you want to use. Springs are ruffly $100. Otherwise, approx. max OE spring lift is approx. .450
 
Not certain what mods have been made on this engine, is there any way of telling what springs I have with out removing them
Thanks
 
Critical diamentions and any possible paint (Stripe) on the springs would be the key to a possible I.D. and possible at best.
 
That flat inner spring isn't really a spring. It's a damper and yes it's stock. The original springs were pretty small diameter and definitely wont' take much. Probably not nearly enough if you want a cam big enough to have a good lope sound. As old as they are their probably pretty well shot anyway. Single springs that will work for a decent size cam can be bought for well under $100.

Also consider this. Your 75 360 is real low compression (not much more than 8 to 1 regardless of what the books say). Put a big cam in it (for a lopey idle) and you'll have a big dog on take off unless your running 4:10 gears and a stall converter. You really need to post the rest of the cars credentials so we can give you an idea of what cam will work. What car are we talking (weight would be better answer)? Which hi-rise manifold? What carb? What gear ratio? What rear tire size? Automatic or stick? If it's an automatic do you plan on installing a high stall converter.
 
edelbrock performance plus, is just bolt in . 270 advs dur 420 lift, smooth idle (i'm sorry), i have that cam in my 360 with performace alu intake and edel-600cfm carb, good low and midrange, if you look after nasty idle check out hughes engine they have what you look after, sounds like street machine on idle but easy to drive.
 
Stay away from that Edelbrock cam. It's a slow and lazy cam.

A lopey sound is due to the centerline placement of the cam. At 110, you'll have the typical muscle car beat but will lack that "Punch" in the sound due to the low compresion.

I siuggest headers and this Comp Cam, I have exp. with very similar spec'd cam's before in low comp. engines and this works very well.
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=626&sb=1
This cam doesn't require a converter change and works with 3.23 gears and up. It has decent street manors and makes good power. For added punch, a head milling to up the c-ratio would be good, not more than 9.5-1.

Lunati's Voo-Doo line or a similar Hugesengines cam etc.... would also be very good. It's the duration spec's that should be close.

When you get your cam, also order up the matching springs for it. It's super easy at Comp Cam. I also seriously suggest new retainers and locks since you have rotors on your springs. The retainers and locks are small potato's.

Here at Summit racing, the whole deal you'll need in one shot, why screw around?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K20-222-3/
 
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