Yeah. They are extremely difficult to get into the jets being installed in the carburetor top.Hmm bit late now...
There's no mention of removing them in the instructions. I was careful when I put the top back on to make sure they didn't foul on anything and the top went on with no resistance so might be ok? Do you think I should remove the top again and check if they are bent?
I wouldn't remove the top though. I would just remove the metering rods and make sure they aren't bent. You may have gotten luck. I have a time or two, but I always take them off now.Hmm bit late now...
There's no mention of removing them in the instructions. I was careful when I put the top back on to make sure they didn't foul on anything and the top went on with no resistance so might be ok? Do you think I should remove the top again and check if they are bent?
The bending tabs is the method for all Carter design and Rochester carbs. Metal fatigue from bending only comes into play with repeated bending. You set or check the float level and drop.and forget it until next time you have the cover off again. Pretty much guarantee you just check the measurements. If you have to replace the needle and seat you may need to tweek the float level. Drop should be OK.So I set the floats and locked off the choke by putting a thick washer onto the shaft where it pivots and tightening it down.
The floats were way off from what the manual specs are. There are 2 settings. First you have to set them with the top of the carb upside down. I set them at 7/16". Then you turn it over and set the hang. I set them at 1".
It's all a bit imprecise for my liking, bending arms and tabs. I'd prefer a solid arm and a screw adjustment but I suppose they are all like this, it's the first time I've done this. I just think bending metal leads to fatigue and possible changes over time.
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When you twist the m rod covers out of the way, keep a finger over the piston well to prevet losing a spring. These springs are a tuning component that works against manifold vacuum to adjust when the metering rods come up out of the primary jets to enrichen the mixture for power.To remove m/rods: loosen piston cover screws about 2 turns, swivel enough so that piston + spring come out. There is a small spring that hooks the m/rod onto the piston. Do not lose it!
With top back on, gently wiggle the rods until they go into the jets & then tighten the cover screws.
That only requires pheremones and a stiffy.Well they are smart enough to be multiplying in plague proportions....
Is barbeque sause good on kangaroo meat?Well they are smart enough to be multiplying in plague proportions....
Only if it has more kick than the 'roo,...Is barbeque sause good on kangaroo meat?
So what I'm reading is roos are pretty much worthless.I think I would eat the sauce.....& pass on the meat.
Must be like Sandhill Cranes. I had mentioned a field east of Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada where Sandhill Cranes stop.yearly during their migration. A whole 1/4 section moving with them searching for throwover grain kernals. An indigenous fellow was standing there and said, "you can boil those useless things gor three days and they are still too tough to eat".So what I'm reading is roos are pretty much worthless.
I checked the accelerator pump and it works, even squirt both sides.66 Sat.
Tuning suggestions:
- verify that the acc pump works by watching for a fuel stream while actuating the throttle.
- the bog. Tune the primaries first; disconnect the pri/sec connecting link at the pri shaft & just let the link hang.
- best done in top gear. Accelerate with WOT to about 4000 rpm or higher. Then, lift off the throttle to about 7/8 throttle. If car slows down, jetting is close. If car speeds up, main jets are too small [ lean ]. Connect sec & repeat test.