Mopar92
Well-Known Member
Have a 198 cube that's starting to stumble off idle and run a little rough. Accelerator pump is dying. Can anybody steer me where to get a kit for the 198 carb? Thanks!!
What carb is on a 73 198?
- Thread starter Mopar92
- Start date
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2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Depending on time of model year and smog equipment it will be either a Holley 1920 (early production) or a Holley 1945.
My 73 had a 1920 on it. Got a rebuild that was jetted too rich from AutoZone (Holley did the rebuild on it.). Bummer about rebuild kits is that most do not include accelerator pump parts.
My 73 had a 1920 on it. Got a rebuild that was jetted too rich from AutoZone (Holley did the rebuild on it.). Bummer about rebuild kits is that most do not include accelerator pump parts.
pishta
I know I'm right....
My zip kit I got at Oreilly came with 2 accelerator pump parts for a 1920, I guess there were 2 versions. Worked great and was pretty cheap, 1 day special order, order before 1100 and itll come in by 1400.
Mopar92
Well-Known Member
Its a stone stock 1973 198.
GenLee1970
Well-Known Member
You need to get under the hood and check. I believe the numbers are on the back, at least if it's a 1920. There are lots of numbers there and they may be hard to read so you may need to clean the carb and use a mirror to see them. I looked the whole carb over and wrote down any number I could see and brought the numbers to my parts guy. Turns out it was a 1920 and I got a kit for it by Hygrade. Came with everything but the float. $53 bucks.
slantsixdan
=..=
There is no early 1920 vs. late 1945. All of the '73s got Holley 1920s. The 1945 didn't appear until the start of 1974-model production.
"Remanufactured" carburetors via parts stores in person or online are junk -- do not buy. If you need an off-the-shelf solution or want to send your carb in for full refurbishment, this outfit at least says all the right things, and results seem to have been better than with the parts store garbage.
Do note that the Holley 1920 carb eventually reaches at hard end of life and no amount of tinkering brings it back from the dead...the metering block has blind passages that get full of "metal mould" corrosion and can't be cleaned. Doesn't sound like yours is that far gone, though. Also, the throttle shaft bushing area of the body casting gets wallowed out, which makes the engine run poorly until the shaft is rebushed as described here (that linked carb outfit above does this, too).
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.
It's grown difficult to get hold of a good-quality carb rebuild kit. The ones from www.daytonaparts.com come with a much better-designed inlet needle/seat than other kits (they call it the "DFV" for Daytona Float Valve, but it's just a reissue of Tomco's S7 valve…no matter what you call it, it's still better than the kind that comes in most other kits). You don't get a real float gauge with anyone's kits any more, just a useless strip-of-paper ruler. New float for the 1920 is still available from Walker, their part number 100-14.
You'll get rid of a lot of off-idle stumble and mushy acceleration by bypassing the OSAC valve: find the hose that runs from carburetor to widget on the side of the air cleaner housing and from there to the distributor. Take the widget out of the loop, run the hose directly from carb to distributor.
And take care of other tune-up factors, too; pay careful attention to spark plug selection and installation and to valve adjustment -- tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.
"Remanufactured" carburetors via parts stores in person or online are junk -- do not buy. If you need an off-the-shelf solution or want to send your carb in for full refurbishment, this outfit at least says all the right things, and results seem to have been better than with the parts store garbage.
Do note that the Holley 1920 carb eventually reaches at hard end of life and no amount of tinkering brings it back from the dead...the metering block has blind passages that get full of "metal mould" corrosion and can't be cleaned. Doesn't sound like yours is that far gone, though. Also, the throttle shaft bushing area of the body casting gets wallowed out, which makes the engine run poorly until the shaft is rebushed as described here (that linked carb outfit above does this, too).
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.
It's grown difficult to get hold of a good-quality carb rebuild kit. The ones from www.daytonaparts.com come with a much better-designed inlet needle/seat than other kits (they call it the "DFV" for Daytona Float Valve, but it's just a reissue of Tomco's S7 valve…no matter what you call it, it's still better than the kind that comes in most other kits). You don't get a real float gauge with anyone's kits any more, just a useless strip-of-paper ruler. New float for the 1920 is still available from Walker, their part number 100-14.
You'll get rid of a lot of off-idle stumble and mushy acceleration by bypassing the OSAC valve: find the hose that runs from carburetor to widget on the side of the air cleaner housing and from there to the distributor. Take the widget out of the loop, run the hose directly from carb to distributor.
And take care of other tune-up factors, too; pay careful attention to spark plug selection and installation and to valve adjustment -- tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.
Mopar92
Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot for the replies guys. I'll look at that deal and how to bypass it. Thanks
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