What clutch fork with Lakewood scatter shield?

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cudaspaz

cudaspaz

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Are there any parts that need converted or added to install a lakewood scattershield?
67 barracuda, 360, A-833. 10.5" clutch.

Yes, I want to use a block plate too.
 
I used my stock fork when I installed mine.Have patience when trying to get it on through that tiny hole:angry7:eek:nto the through-out bearings clips.Good luck.

P.S Make sure to offset dowel pins.
 
Me too. I used the OE unit. 4spd set ups are allways a bit of a pain with it flopping aropund till it's set up.
 
CudaSpaz, Do you already have the lakewood unit???? If not, I would recommend using a Quicktime Bell, as I've heard and read the fitment is way better...I have a Quicktime bell that will be put to use on my build...
 
Better fitment? I have plenty of room and install the lakewood with ease. If the quicktime is lighter, that would be great for street guys. But do remember the Lakewood is a scattersheild designed to save your feet and life in the case of a "GOD forbid" issue cropping up. It's thick steel. And it is a bit heavy.
 
I have also pulled the lake wood from my 67 dart, Put in a QuickTime works great no binding or bad words,Dave
 
rumblefish360 said:
Better fitment? I have plenty of room and install the lakewood with ease. If the quicktime is lighter, that would be great for street guys. But do remember the Lakewood is a scattersheild designed to save your feet and life in the case of a "GOD forbid" issue cropping up. It's thick steel. And it is a bit heavy.
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Hey Rumble, I've just read somewhere on here in the past that there were fitment issues with the lakewood scatter shield. The quicktime is also a scattershield...SFI approved and is made of spun steel...

From quicktime website:
QuickTime has set a new standard for steel bellhousings.

  • Circle track, strip, street applications.
  • Patent Pending on 16 Points of Bellhousing design and process
  • Lightest steel bellhousing available anywhere
  • Do not be fooled by others claiming parallelism and concentricity. The QuickTime Bellhousing is the most accurate bellhousing available due to our unique manufacturing processes.
  • The QuickTime cone is spun not rolled or stamped. This allows the QuickTime Bellhousing to be the most dimensionally stable bellhousing available.
  • Less drivetrain wear.
  • Increased horsepower.
  • Built from high grade steel — Work hardens to over 80,000 PSI strength. Over 2 times the strength of any other steel bellhousing.
  • Has passed SFI testing.
  • This is the bellhousing you want between you and your drivetrain.
  • 100% built in the USA.
  • Design input from OEM, Engine Builders, Transmission Builders, Racers, and the hobbiest.
  • Over 120 models in stock, 750 different Engine to Transmission combinations
 
My buddy has a Lakewood unit for me, but I need to get the block plate and whatever else do dads to make it work right.

Is there a special Z-bar bracket for the lakewood housing?

Where do you get the offset dowels?
 
Spaz, you don't need the block plate, I have not needed it in the past. There was no issue with fitment. It's about an 1/8th thick. All my staock parts were used with it, even the dust boot. No off set dowels were needed.
 
Oh WOW! Thanks dude. That was some real good info. Good to know it's a good peice to use and have. Where ya gettem and there cost? Same deal as ease of use as my Lakewood?


The only argument I have is, More HorsePower? LOL

Thanks Dave, good to know this stuff.
 
cudaspaz said:
They are, but worth the price considering the alternative to NOT having one should the flywheel decide to take a vacation.
Click to expand...

Oh absolutely! I agree! That's why I have one (still in the box, mind you lol) for my build....
 
There lighter than the Lakewood. More complaexly formed. Nice product.
 
my opinion on quicktime, stay the hell away....Ross who runs the company is a shifty guy imo

I have one of their bellhousings and am using a z-bar still....had massive problems with the bell and ball stud bracket on the bell flexing like crazy when the clutch pedal was pushed down...was told i was the only one with this problem...well i look a little deeper and guys on here are having the exact same problems with their quicktime 4 speed bells (and im using a wimpy diaphram style clutch! imagine what a heavier pedal would do for flexing)

I ended up having to make my own bracket after alot of trial and error, time and frustration...oh, and Ross still refuses to acknowledge this problem, even after more than one person has approached him about it

So what they are lighter...if the lakewoods were that bad in fitment and safety, im sure they wouldnt get an sfi sticker on them...next bell i buy will be lakewood no doubt, or maybe ill stay with the quicktime since ive already engineered a mammoth of a bracket to work with their pattern

my two cents....good luck either way
 
also check this out...read the link in post 25, and then scroll down to find more about the problem, also more on third page about ross and his responses

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=83313&page=2&highlight=flywheel

your buds lakewood might look real good after this....just saying

talked with a guy with a demon on another forum who just got his bell...same problem, so i dont think its been fixed
 
mshred said:
my opinion on quicktime, stay the hell away....Ross who runs the company is a shifty guy imo

I have one of their bellhousings and am using a z-bar still....had massive problems with the bell and ball stud bracket on the bell flexing like crazy when the clutch pedal was pushed down...was told i was the only one with this problem...well i look a little deeper and guys on here are having the exact same problems with their quicktime 4 speed bells (and im using a wimpy diaphram style clutch! imagine what a heavier pedal would do for flexing)

I ended up having to make my own bracket after alot of trial and error, time and frustration...oh, and Ross still refuses to acknowledge this problem, even after more than one person has approached him about it

So what they are lighter...if the lakewoods were that bad in fitment and safety, im sure they wouldnt get an sfi sticker on them...next bell i buy will be lakewood no doubt, or maybe ill stay with the quicktime since ive already engineered a mammoth of a bracket to work with their pattern

my two cents....good luck either way
Click to expand...

mshred said:
also check this out...read the link in post 25, and then scroll down to find more about the problem, also more on third page about ross and his responses

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=83313&page=2&highlight=flywheel

your buds lakewood might look real good after this....just saying

talked with a guy with a demon on another forum who just got his bell...same problem, so i dont think its been fixed
Click to expand...


Hmmm...Interesting for sure...BUT I wonder since I'm not gonna use a Z bar or mechanical linkage, just a hydraulic clutch setup, I doubt I'll come across this discrepancy..
 
mopardude318 said:
Hmmm...Interesting for sure...BUT I wonder since I'm not gonna use a Z bar or mechanical linkage, just a hydraulic clutch setup, I doubt I'll come across this discrepancy..
Click to expand...

I doubt you would....not sure really how hydraulic stuff works, but i believe all the pressure is going through lines with oil, so there would be no flexing on the bellhousing to worry about

it was more aimed at spaz since i know he is using a z-bar
 
mshred, you definitely made my decision easier by sticking with the lakewood.

I wish some of these dudes that advertize all over the place in the mopar rags were not total morons when it came to customer service.

I could share another story from a transmission vendor (not brewers) that has a crappy attitude over the phone but I won't mention names but it seems they have enough business that they can be total asswipes to a potential customer.

Would you be pissed if you called a vendor and they said "we need to make this quick because we're getting ready to go to the Carlaisle show."

Yeah buddy, like I'm gonna give a jackwad like that my business....he just lost a sale.
 
cudaspaz said:
mshred, you definitely made my decision easier by sticking with the lakewood.

I wish some of these dudes that advertize all over the place in the mopar rags were not total morons when it came to customer service.

I could share another story from a transmission vendor (not brewers) that has a crappy attitude over the phone but I won't mention names but it seems they have enough business that they can be total asswipes to a potential customer.

Would you be pissed if you called a vendor and they said "we need to make this quick because we're getting ready to go to the Carlaisle show."

Yeah buddy, like I'm gonna give a jackwad like that my business....he just lost a sale.
Click to expand...

yea, what i couldnt understand about quicktime was that it was a known problem, but he refused to recognize it...then when i emailed him with the thread saying look, we all had problems and you tell all of use we are the only ones, he tells me has since fixed it with the new bells since august, meanwhile i talked to him in july and he mentioned nothing of it...tried to sell me a band aid fix with a wimpy starter nose cover lol

and i know exactly which 4 speed guy you are talking about...in all of my dealings for the z-bar and linkage stuff i needed, i went straight to brewers...never heard too much good about the other guy, seemed his ego got in the way alot.

but yea, like i said, id go with the lakewood...sure parts need modifications to work, and ive heard the lakewood does need some mods from some people, but hell im sure it cant be as bad as what i had to do, especially when you dont have access to a machine shop or specialty tools

good luck with it though! putting a shield in will make you that much more relived when you are pounding on the car...you dont have to worry about your leg(s) coming off and you going to an auto (boring!)
 
Well my buddy is still thinking about how much he wants for the lakewood so I just went ahead and installed my correct Z-bar, clutch fork, pivot and hardware I got from another member.

I had to loosen the clutch fork pivot bracket bolts enough to slide the fork into the pivot, then snuck a wrench behind the fork to tighten the bolts, and that way the fork popped right into place, thanks to my buddy Nick's advice.
I could not keep one of those stupid, stupid, stupid *** c-clips in the adjuster rod where it connects to the Z-bar so after ruinung three of them, I went to napa and got an "E" clip that popped right into place and stayed nice and snug.
I made sure I had someone operate the clutch pedal about 50 times while I watched the linkage, the clip and made my final adjustments.
Those stupid C-clips suck royally if the get slightly out of whack but this E- clip is the shizzle.
I don't know why they did not use the drilled hole, looped shape clips like the ones in the shifter rod linkage because those suckers will never come out.
 
OMG! A "E" clip, why didn't I think of that! I have a few of those C clips and hate'em for the linkage set up.
 
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