What coil are you running?

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gliderider06

gliderider06

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Just wanted to know what everyone is running for a coil. I was going to do an experiment and convert to electronic ign w/ chrome box, from my HEI setup. I know most will ask why, and the reason is simple. I do not think the HEI is allowing me to rev past 5800rpm. I have tried different fuel pumps, carbs, Dizzys and even had just changed to a MP .528 solid and it still does the same thing.
So, with that said, I have an Ecoil that I use with HEI, can I use it in conjuction with a ballast resistor, or should I run a MSD coil or something else?
Thanks!
 
I doubt its your ignition could be tired valve springs, timing anything. But the hei is a great improvement over the chrome box or any box chrysler has to offer.
 
I run an older direct connection dizzy, ( re curved) with an orange box and an MSD coil. I'm running through the traps at 7200 RPM with my 340.
 
I'm not 100% sure but that E coil may have a ballast built in. I would research that, some of them do.
 
I know its not springs. they are new, set up right and correct for solid cam. I have tried different cam timing, Ign timing and different dist. Only thing I have not changed id the HEI module and coil. That is what is making me think is where my problem lies.
Nothing else, it will give me something else to do on the car.
 
Yes, I checked that too. It opens all the way when pedal is to the floor. 3/8 fuel line from sender to carb, so I don't think its a fuel issue.
 
Will it rev past 5800 rpm in neautral ? or does it not rev past 5800 with a load on it ( in gear) ?? I'm just thinkin here...
 
I have not tried to rev it that high in neutral. It does it in all gears. Well except for 4th. Haven't gone that fast yet.
 
I read an article a while back about the HEI and it stated it didn't like much more than 6000rpm, so I asked the question here. Several members said they are running it and have no problems pushing past that.
 
Yes, my dist is re-curved. I am running one light blue spring and one of the MP quick advance springs. I welded the slots, and initial timing set at 18* and total at 35*. 50* when vac advance is connected.
BTW, it did the same thing with 3.23 and 3.55 suregrip.
 
I think the module is a BWD i got from Rock Auto. I can not be certain what brand it is. It has been a while since I bought it.
 
It very well could be the module.
They are only electronic devices, and like everything else electronic it can fail or even partially fail.

I wouldn't give up the HEI just because of a module if that's what it is.
 
I am partial to think it is either the module or coil and it will really only cost me the price of a coil and an hour or so of my time to test my theory. I have everything but the coil already and that is why I was wondering what kind to use. If it still acts the same after using the chrome box, then well... I suppose the car will be shifted at 5800 rpm.
Maybe my e-coil is the issue and not the module. I dunno, just want to try some experiments.
Thanks!
 
Bad Sport said:
I read an article a while back about the HEI and it stated it didn't like much more than 6000rpm, so I asked the question here. Several members said they are running it and have no problems pushing past that.
Click to expand...

I suspect some modules were made for 4 cylinder engines, some for 6 cyl, and some for 8. (Or maybe just 6&8, not positive) but thier part numbers are different.
Using a 4 cylinder module on a 8 cyl engine could push the module to 2X the RPM's it was designed to run at.
This is why I use 8 cylinder parts in my ignition kits. (not going to risk it)

Also, I'm not positive how to find out for sure besides running them to speed on a dizzy machine with a scope to see at what RPM's the spark starts to fail.

The reluctor gap could even cause the OP's issue if it hasn't been checked yet.
 
I had removed the ballast resistor and my reluctor gap is set at a loose .008" using brass feeler gauges per the engines book.
 
I would not use an e-core coil with a ballast. That is unusual and throws another unknown into the equation. You want to get to a known baseline. I am pretty sure the factory coils varied between points and electronic, since I have one stamped "for use with electronic ignition only" (at least I recall the "only"). So don't use a points coil to avoid another unknown. Among Mopar ECU's, there are a bunch of bad, or at least unusual, ones out there. A recent post showed a dissected failed one with a fake TO3 transistor on top and a small internal transistor that didn't touch the case well, so more unknowns. You will probably never get firm conclusions without a big budget and lots of experiments. Better to just find something that works. I doubt HEI modules have a generic problem, or Chevy's would always get stomped.
 
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