mopowers
Well-Known Member
Leash has some good stuff too. That's probably be where I'll get the relay board for my car.
What do I need to do my electrical system in my dart.
- Thread starter MOPARMAGA
- Start date
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I'll take a look, thanks
mopowers
Well-Known Member
That's nice looking stuff
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Which one did you go with???
I had a leash sportsman board in my car and then beginning of 2023 I purchased the K&R complete wiring kit. The leash was nice but the K&R I like much much better. For the simple fact I only have to plug the switch panel into the relay board and everything goes to its appropriate accessory.
You’ll love the K&R Korie.
There’s lots of little details that can go into wiring. I would say a lot of important things were touched on by other members like alternator size and cable size.
The biggest thing I would touch on is the way to ground the car is very important. Personally, I ground the battery to the chassis. Then run a ground cable from the battery to a common post inside the cab of the vehicle, close to where your relay board will be located. Then run a ground cable from the common post to the engine. Then ground engine to chassis. I would ground both cylinder heads to the chassis. Also be sure to ground the case of the alternator to the chassis as well. Some go as far as grounding the starter case to the engine or chassis and ground the transmission case to engine or chassis. Let’s just say if you have the car properly grounded, electrical issues will be easily identifiable as mostly all issues I’ve ever experienced were either ground related, or a poor connection. Msd ignitions are VERY ground sensitive.
Do not run your crank trigger/distributor pickup wires near any high voltage wires such as alternator charge wire or coil wire. They sell shielded distributor/crank trigger pickup wires so that electromagnetic interference will not occur. Meaning, if your distributor pickup wires are ran next to say your alternator charge wire, the alternator wire can cause interference to the pickup wires, causing all sorts of grief.
There’s tons of other things you’ll come across Korie but nothing that the members on here can’t help you out with.
You’ll love the K&R Korie.
There’s lots of little details that can go into wiring. I would say a lot of important things were touched on by other members like alternator size and cable size.
The biggest thing I would touch on is the way to ground the car is very important. Personally, I ground the battery to the chassis. Then run a ground cable from the battery to a common post inside the cab of the vehicle, close to where your relay board will be located. Then run a ground cable from the common post to the engine. Then ground engine to chassis. I would ground both cylinder heads to the chassis. Also be sure to ground the case of the alternator to the chassis as well. Some go as far as grounding the starter case to the engine or chassis and ground the transmission case to engine or chassis. Let’s just say if you have the car properly grounded, electrical issues will be easily identifiable as mostly all issues I’ve ever experienced were either ground related, or a poor connection. Msd ignitions are VERY ground sensitive.
Do not run your crank trigger/distributor pickup wires near any high voltage wires such as alternator charge wire or coil wire. They sell shielded distributor/crank trigger pickup wires so that electromagnetic interference will not occur. Meaning, if your distributor pickup wires are ran next to say your alternator charge wire, the alternator wire can cause interference to the pickup wires, causing all sorts of grief.
There’s tons of other things you’ll come across Korie but nothing that the members on here can’t help you out with.
Thanks a lot RJ, Ill be referencing your post in the very near future.
Appreciate the details.
I must mention fabo has been a huge help!
Post 21 I put up yesterday.
Jegs gave me a promo code and I saved $50.00
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Before the weather turns to white stuff, I'd maybe come over for a few hours for a Miner Burger and a sack of fries. State Route 410's a 125 mile bike ride. Don't ride in white stuff.
Miners in Union Gap WA, once the childhood home of "Gary Puckett and the Union Gap"
Miners in Union Gap WA, once the childhood home of "Gary Puckett and the Union Gap"
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Dave_J
Well-Known Member
I copied this many years ago. I added a 1-0 Gauge welding wire from the trunk to the engine block.
1 gauge wire will work for most with out all the forward electronics, but 1-0 is GOOD overkill. 2-0 is more overkill and not really needed, is extra heavy, but only about 2 pounds more. It is $$$ more too.
The below is just the diameter of the copper, not the sheath. Sheath diameter can be very deceptive.
1 Gauge is 0.289 Inch or 7.35mm
1-0 gauge is 0.325 Inch or 8.25mm
2-0 gauge is 0.365 inch or 9.25mm
1 gauge wire will work for most with out all the forward electronics, but 1-0 is GOOD overkill. 2-0 is more overkill and not really needed, is extra heavy, but only about 2 pounds more. It is $$$ more too.
The below is just the diameter of the copper, not the sheath. Sheath diameter can be very deceptive.
1 Gauge is 0.289 Inch or 7.35mm
1-0 gauge is 0.325 Inch or 8.25mm
2-0 gauge is 0.365 inch or 9.25mm
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Buy yourself a really nice test light. Not one from Harbor Freight.
You'll also want to run the same size ground wire on the battery as you do on the positive side cable. Do not ever expect the body or frame to be a good ground. Because it's not.
Also you need to use a ground cable of the same size on the back of each cylinder head. Don't shortcut what I am saying and you'll have a race car that works correctly.
Wiring is not difficult, but it requires taking your time and making quality connections.
Tom
You'll also want to run the same size ground wire on the battery as you do on the positive side cable. Do not ever expect the body or frame to be a good ground. Because it's not.
Also you need to use a ground cable of the same size on the back of each cylinder head. Don't shortcut what I am saying and you'll have a race car that works correctly.
Wiring is not difficult, but it requires taking your time and making quality connections.
Tom
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Will this wiring method kill the alternator? It looks like the master kill switch will kill battery power but not kill the alternator.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
I wonder if there's an advantage of going this route (above) vs. the one commonly posted on this site originally from @crackedback Rob. Looks like the one above eliminates the CD relay.
Edit - I guess the advantage of running the CD relay is that once the cutoff switch is thrown, it kills all power forward to the car. Using the MAD method shown above, the alternator line is always hot.
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Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Yes, the Crackedback wiring looks like a better idea. The one I posted was from over 20 years ago and used on a D250. Not so many power using items back then. And it was just a basic "trunk" battery system and all under hood and dash wiring was on a different wiring diagram chart.
If the battery is going to be in the trunk, you do NOT need to run a separate bat [-] wire to the front of the car. Just adding unnecessary extra weight. Iron/steel has 7 times more resistance than copper. That means if you had 7 pieces of steel connected in parallel, the resistance would equal one piece of copper with the same CSA & length. The car body will have less resistance than one piece of copper battery cable.
I disagree, these cars are not machined from a single billet of steel. There's paint, seam sealer, crud and rust between every panel. You're basically relying on the spot welds at that point.
You obviously do not understand electrical theory. It is complex. Yes, spot welds & places where there is metal to metal contact. If the resistance of the spot weld junction is 0.01 ohm & there are 50 spot welds, then the total resistance is 0.0002 ohms.........
I'll check the resistance between the front and rear frame rail when I get home. I'd love to be proven wrong and lose 1.5lb of wire.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
I had a friend that was so Anal Retentive about every ounce of excess weight on his 68 Notchback Barracuda street/strip car. He removed all seam sealer, any bolt or nut not needed, any extra wires in the wiring looms, cut any bolt so it had just enough threads engaged, on and on.... So he'd waddle his 375 pound body out to get into the car. He died at 42.
I'll skip 6 Cheeseburgers in a week and loose 1.5 pounds.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
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