What does it cost?

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excellent thread. just getting started on my aussie mopar ive had in storage for close 20 yrs.have mostly complete car bar few bits o trim . not even thinking bout the $$. ive waited a long time to get into this an loving it.
 
Tony!

After going through your thread I must admit that to me it is probably one of the best written posts on FABO!

You have done an extremly well done restoration on your car. One of the issues is that if you have the goal in you head, you know how you want's the car to turn out then you forget about the cost. Or plan it over a longer time.

I guess that you can restore a car two ways. For the love of your car or looking on your car as an investment.

You have done your restoration for the love of your car. Hats off!

After going through the cost of my restoration I very quickly found out that I'm doing the restoration for love to the car too!!! Money tends to fly away fast! And I mean really fast!

But after all, all hobbies does cost money. The car hobby tends to bring back some of it if we decide to sell. Other hobbies is just like throwing away money all the time!

Thank You!
 
We all know the pain but in the end it is worth it

Take my baby girl for example I bought her 3 years ago and over that course of time there has been several thousands of dollars invested and several times I quantinplated selling her but now that she's done I wouldn't do it any other way

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We all know the pain but in the end it is worth it

Take my baby girl for example I bought her 3 years ago and over that course of time there has been several thousands of dollars invested and several times I quantinplated selling her but now that she's done I wouldn't do it any other way

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

Good looking Dart!
 
I have tried to do as much work myself or with the help of my dad or friends. still will have 18-20k invested. 5k for car, 5k for motor and trans, 5k for various restoration parts, 2k in body and paint materials, 1k in seats, 2k in wheels and tires. I could have bought one done for less, but then it would not be my car, but somebody else's I bought.
 
Yup, amen brothers.
Paid 4750 for the 71 dart to start with lots of used parts. found out they not so good condition after all. Oh well. stroker engine built and dynoed-10 grand. paint/body 5 grand. That is basically 20 grand. Another 10 for the rest. Perfect, 30 grand mid life crisis fix. And it will be my fix. Seen lots of Darts for 20 to 30 grand finished, looking great. LIfe is a one way trip. Time to get on with it with as few regrets as possible. No that is a solid Amen!
 
After reading your post, Tony, I have decided even with my seriously rusted Dart, I am committed to restoring it. I am not doing it for the investment; I am doing it for something that I can drive and enjoy and that my kids can one day enjoy as well. Now on to all that sheetmetal work.
 
Yea,the savings bank has really been squealin lately

imageseee.jpg


almost got the stroker done for the white dart
just finished converting to E-85
will tub and install the narrow rear end this winter

for now still runnin the 360
went to the track last night.
Gayle got it down to 8.09

The video is at the far side of the track, where everyone goes to warm up/ drive around before the time trials start

click on next 2 pics to view

[ame=http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii313/draginmopars/white%20dart%202/050.mp4]
th_050.jpg
[/ame]

[ame=http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii313/draginmopars/white%20dart%202/055.mp4]
th_055.jpg
[/ame]


still need to finish the car hauler conversion to diesel

4-03-06030.jpg




got all the parts for the green dart,just need more time to work on it
bought it with out an engine/trans
figured we would have to freshin them up anyway

005.jpg



gonna have to find some more change for paint
for now run them like they are
 
Ya'll have beautiful cars and should be proud of them, I myself will never be able to spend anywhere what ya'll have spent, but I do all my own work and I reuse or rebuild as much as I can. I'm not interested in a concourse restored car just a respectable driver that I can enjoy. I have been a car nut since just about birth and love all cars equally, all of my builds have been low buck [workin man's cars] and I have had very good luck at shows, every project has been under 8-9k [includes purchase price] my Cuda will be the most expensive project I have done but i'm gonna try to keep costs as low as possible. We are all caretakers of Automotive History and it's our job to restore [no matter how much you spend] and protect these rolling time machines for future generations!!

View attachment 102_3278.jpg
 
I'm not sure this is the correct forum for this thread as I have already done
a restoration thread on my 'Cuda. What I wanted to share with you folks
is how we end up investing so much money into our cars.

There are several of you out there that think A bodies aren't worth very
much in our market today. That's probably the case as our A bodies were
never meant to bring high dollars even when new.

This thread is for you guys and gals thinking about doing a restoration on
your ride and have no idea what you might be in for. I realize you can
stop at anytime you want on your project but for the purpose of this
thread, lets not do that. Lets give this project everything it needs from
start to finish...within reason of course.

Lets get started...where's the calculator:sad7:

The initial investment and the type of car you start with if very important.
My initial investment was $2500.00. That sounded very reasonable to me
back in 2006 for a '67 'Cuda fastback. At that time I didn't realize the
differences between the slant 6 and the V8 drive train. My plan was to
build a V8 car when I bought it. Found out it wasn't wise to use small
drum brakes, small 7-1/4 rear end, small diameter torsion bars, anyway
you get the idea.

New disc brakes and spindles with large ball joints and upper control
arms added $1130.00. Used 340 torsion bars were $40.00 and a used
8-3/4 rear end was another $300.00. The cost of new Moser axles and
preparing the "C" body 8-3/4 was another $606.00. Add in another
$336.00 for a new ring and pinion and bearing set. Now tack on another
$100.00 for the gear set up. Starting to add up and we haven't even
started yet. I'm not trying to scare you, just telling you the facts from
my experience.

We will also need some wheels and tires. $50.00 for used steel 15" x 7" wheels
$290.00 to powder coat the wheels. Red line tires were another $985.16

Engine and tranny redo plus labor and the install was $8830.00. MSD stuff
was $554.00

Paint and body work added another $9000.00

The following is a list of stuff I had to buy for the 'Cuda because a lot of
this stuff was gone or in bad shape. Bear with me...

Radiator $384, fuel tank strap $37, front brake line kit $58, fan shroud
$192(junk re pop), fuel sending unit $159, spring shackle pkg. $70, leaf
springs $200, shift knob $25, flip fuel cap $120, deluxe screw kit $44,
glove box liner $22, roof rail weatherstrip $90, seat belts $100, front
fender patch $63, wheel lip molding screws $22, door panel clips $40,
seat buns $206, fuel tank $233, fish in a circle(2) $60, Chrysler star
emblem $13, ign/door lock kit $35, trunk lock kit $17, gas strap bolt $23,
center console $250, steering wheel $100, dog dish caps $71, radio $40
vents and cover $56, wiper knob $12, dash pad $78, bumper end brkts
$63, ash tray $37, fold down trunk panel $115, shift linkage $54, tie rod
ends/sleeves/brake parts $390, dash bezel/arm rest re chrome $677
fiberglass hood/scoop/hardware $760, window trim clips $47, window gaskets $179,
trunk mat $46, side glass weatherstrip $100, TTI exhaust system
$685, hose clamp kit $13, carpet $375, front glass $260, rear glass $790
tail light bezels $595, clips and misc screws $25, torsion bar support repair
parts $280, quarter panel skin $228, fuel and brake lines $128, tach $200
tach harness $30, remote mirror $277, trunk weather strip $39, fish
fender emblems $68, barracuda script $78, right tail light lens $132
p-l-y-m-o-u-t-h emblem $69, fuel tank pad $17, bumpers $760,
flex plate $111, seat covers $484, door panels $374, motor mounts $75,
redo drive shaft $160, trans brkt $41, emerg brake cable $95, drum brake
hardware $45, misc Year One gaskets, decals screws $57, control arm cam/shaft kit
$59, poly trans mount $40, door handles $195, window cranks $94, fender
splash shields $234, jack instructions $8, misc decals $35, antenna $174,
install headliner $150, wheel lip moldings $250, trunk trim $275, damper $100
pinion snubber $69, fan $33, mini starter $160, power coat dash frame
twice $300, hoses/clamps $298, back up lights $160

I probably have missed some stuff here but you get the jest of it when you
start with a car that needs everything like mine did. I started to use more used
stuff but the condition of it wasn't that good.

By using mostly new items I have created a car that I am very proud to
own and drive. It will never be sold (will be passed on to our daughter
Tonya and her husband Chris).

Our total investment is north of $38,700 and yes the car would never
bring that on the open market but that doesn't really bother me.

I hope this sheds some light on the restoration process and gives you
some data on what you might have ahead of you if you decide to take
the plunge. Good luck to you if you do.

Tony

You can view my restoration thread here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=16153&highlight=my+1967+cuda+restoration
.
.
.
.
.

What you write makes perfect sense to me. I paid € 450 for my car, plus € 452 for immatriculation (the charge is based on fiscal hp in France, mine is 22CV) and then spent nearly € 50,000 to build my car (but delivery charges and duty/VAT account for a big part of that cost, that a US-based builder need not worry about).

Differently from you, my son and I decided to retain the slant-6 engine but found performance parts for the car mostly from Australia. I ordered the cylinder head and other parts from "Hemi Performance", located near Brisbane. Other helpful sources are "AussieSpeed" and "Pentastar Parts". Here are some links..

http://www.aussiespeed.com/

http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/p_889_Slant-6-225-Standard-Performance-Crate-Engine

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/

AussieSpeed has a US presence and Campbell Enterprises (very friendly and helpful people) also provides some performance parts for the slant-6.

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/

Hemi Performance offers such interesting solutions such as a ported, polished and gas-flowed cylinder head with larger valves and dual valve springs, triple Weber DCOE45 carburettor kits, a fuel injection kit and much more.

My the engine of my car has been bored slightly, for a displacement of 3.8l, has high-compression Wiseco pistons and connecting rods, a mild racing cam, an AussieSpeed equal-length runner intake manifold with a 360cfm Edelbrock 4 barrel carburettor, as well as a tubular extractor from Hemi Performance. The exhaust system is a 2-1/4" builder's kit from Magnaflow.

Planned upgrades include an aluminium performance radiator from Smith's Radiators and, perhaps, an engine oil cooler, links for which I provide below ;

http://www.smithsradiator.com/mopar/abody/index.html

http://www.andysautosport.com/oil_c...sb_price=Sort+by+Price&sb_brand=Sort+by+Brand

I also have an NOS nitro system installed but have yet to test it.

In any event, a performance slant-6 is fully possible. It just requires more research than a V8 solution, but probably is no cheaper than a swop.

I believe my slant-6 is good for roughly 300hp and sounds quite awesome, especially with the exhaust cut-off open. The Ford 9" rear axle was provided by "Control Freak Suspensions" (who also provided the front axle conversion). It has a "Strange Engineering" limited-slip differential and 4-wheel "Wilwood" disc brakes.
 

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What you write makes perfect sense to me. I paid € 450 for my car, plus € 452 for immatriculation (the charge is based on fiscal hp in France, mine is 22CV) and then spent nearly € 50,000 to build my car (but delivery charges and duty/VAT account for a big part of that cost, that a US-based builder need not worry about).

Differently from you, my son and I decided to retain the slant-6 engine but found performance parts for the car mostly from Australia. I ordered the cylinder head and other parts from "Hemi Performance", located near Brisbane. Other helpful sources are "AussieSpeed" and "Pentastar Parts". Here are some links..

http://www.aussiespeed.com/

http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/p_889_Slant-6-225-Standard-Performance-Crate-Engine

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/

AussieSpeed has a US presence and Campbell Enterprises (very friendly and helpful people) also provides some performance parts for the slant-6.

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/

Hemi Performance offers such interesting solutions such as a ported, polished and gas-flowed cylinder head with larger valves and dual valve springs, triple Weber DCOE45 carburettor kits, a fuel injection kit and much more.

My the engine of my car has been bored slightly, for a displacement of 3.8l, has high-compression Wiseco pistons and connecting rods, a mild racing cam, an AussieSpeed equal-length runner intake manifold with a 360cfm Edelbrock 4 barrel carburettor, as well as a tubular extractor from Hemi Performance. The exhaust system is a 2-1/4" builder's kit from Magnaflow.

Planned upgrades include an aluminium performance radiator from Smith's Radiators and, perhaps, an engine oil cooler, links for which I provide below ;

http://www.smithsradiator.com/mopar/abody/index.html

http://www.andysautosport.com/oil_c...sb_price=Sort+by+Price&sb_brand=Sort+by+Brand

I also have an NOS nitro system installed but have yet to test it.

In any event, a performance slant-6 is fully possible. It just requires more research than a V8 solution, but probably is no cheaper than a swop.

I believe my slant-6 is good for roughly 300hp and sounds quite awesome, especially with the exhaust cut-off open. The Ford 9" rear axle was provided by "Control Freak Suspensions" (who also provided the front axle conversion). It has a "Strange Engineering" limited-slip differential and 4-wheel "Wilwood" disc brakes.


If mine would have had the slant in it when I bought it, I would
have worked with it. A slanty with a Pro Charger would work for me:D
 
I'm not sure this is the correct forum for this thread as I have already done
a restoration thread on my 'Cuda. What I wanted to share with you folks
is how we end up investing so much money into our cars.

There are several of you out there that think A bodies aren't worth very
much in our market today. That's probably the case as our A bodies were
never meant to bring high dollars even when new.

This thread is for you guys and gals thinking about doing a restoration on
your ride and have no idea what you might be in for. I realize you can
stop at anytime you want on your project but for the purpose of this
thread, lets not do that. Lets give this project everything it needs from
start to finish...within reason of course.

Lets get started...where's the calculator:sad7:

The initial investment and the type of car you start with if very important.
My initial investment was $2500.00. That sounded very reasonable to me
back in 2006 for a '67 'Cuda fastback. At that time I didn't realize the
differences between the slant 6 and the V8 drive train. My plan was to
build a V8 car when I bought it. Found out it wasn't wise to use small
drum brakes, small 7-1/4 rear end, small diameter torsion bars, anyway
you get the idea.

New disc brakes and spindles with large ball joints and upper control
arms added $1130.00. Used 340 torsion bars were $40.00 and a used
8-3/4 rear end was another $300.00. The cost of new Moser axles and
preparing the "C" body 8-3/4 was another $606.00. Add in another
$336.00 for a new ring and pinion and bearing set. Now tack on another
$100.00 for the gear set up. Starting to add up and we haven't even
started yet. I'm not trying to scare you, just telling you the facts from
my experience.

We will also need some wheels and tires. $50.00 for used steel 15" x 7" wheels
$290.00 to powder coat the wheels. Red line tires were another $985.16

Engine and tranny redo plus labor and the install was $8830.00. MSD stuff
was $554.00

Paint and body work added another $9000.00

The following is a list of stuff I had to buy for the 'Cuda because a lot of
this stuff was gone or in bad shape. Bear with me...

Radiator $384, fuel tank strap $37, front brake line kit $58, fan shroud
$192(junk re pop), fuel sending unit $159, spring shackle pkg. $70, leaf
springs $200, shift knob $25, flip fuel cap $120, deluxe screw kit $44,
glove box liner $22, roof rail weatherstrip $90, seat belts $100, front
fender patch $63, wheel lip molding screws $22, door panel clips $40,
seat buns $206, fuel tank $233, fish in a circle(2) $60, Chrysler star
emblem $13, ign/door lock kit $35, trunk lock kit $17, gas strap bolt $23,
center console $250, steering wheel $100, dog dish caps $71, radio $40
vents and cover $56, wiper knob $12, dash pad $78, bumper end brkts
$63, ash tray $37, fold down trunk panel $115, shift linkage $54, tie rod
ends/sleeves/brake parts $390, dash bezel/arm rest re chrome $677
fiberglass hood/scoop/hardware $760, window trim clips $47, window gaskets $179,
trunk mat $46, side glass weatherstrip $100, TTI exhaust system
$685, hose clamp kit $13, carpet $375, front glass $260, rear glass $790
tail light bezels $595, clips and misc screws $25, torsion bar support repair
parts $280, quarter panel skin $228, fuel and brake lines $128, tach $200
tach harness $30, remote mirror $277, trunk weather strip $39, fish
fender emblems $68, barracuda script $78, right tail light lens $132
p-l-y-m-o-u-t-h emblem $69, fuel tank pad $17, bumpers $760,
flex plate $111, seat covers $484, door panels $374, motor mounts $75,
redo drive shaft $160, trans brkt $41, emerg brake cable $95, drum brake
hardware $45, misc Year One gaskets, decals screws $57, control arm cam/shaft kit
$59, poly trans mount $40, door handles $195, window cranks $94, fender
splash shields $234, jack instructions $8, misc decals $35, antenna $174,
install headliner $150, wheel lip moldings $250, trunk trim $275, damper $100
pinion snubber $69, fan $33, mini starter $160, power coat dash frame
twice $300, hoses/clamps $298, back up lights $160

I probably have missed some stuff here but you get the jest of it when you
start with a car that needs everything like mine did. I started to use more used
stuff but the condition of it wasn't that good.

By using mostly new items I have created a car that I am very proud to
own and drive. It will never be sold (will be passed on to our daughter
Tonya and her husband Chris).

Our total investment is north of $38,700 and yes the car would never
bring that on the open market but that doesn't really bother me.

I hope this sheds some light on the restoration process and gives you
some data on what you might have ahead of you if you decide to take
the plunge. Good luck to you if you do.

Tony

You can view my restoration thread here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=16153&highlight=my+1967+cuda+restoration
.
.
.
.
.

What you write makes perfect sense to me. I paid € 450 for my car, plus € 452 for immatriculation (the charge is based on fiscal hp in France, mine is 22CV) and then spent nearly € 50,000 to build my car (but delivery charges and duty/VAT account for a big part of that cost, that a US-based builder need not worry about).

Differently from you, my son and I decided to retain the slant-6 engine but found performance parts for the car mostly from Australia. I ordered the cylinder head and other parts from "Hemi Performance", located near Brisbane. Other helpful sources are "AussieSpeed" and "Pentastar Parts". Here are some links..

http://www.aussiespeed.com/

http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store2/p_889_Slant-6-225-Standard-Performance-Crate-Engine

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/

AussieSpeed has a US presence and Campbell Enterprises (very friendly and helpful people) also provides some performance parts for the slant-6.

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/

Hemi Performance offers such interesting solutions such as a ported, polished and gas-flowed cylinder head with larger valves and dual valve springs, triple Weber DCOE45 carburettor kits, a fuel injection kit and much more.

My the engine of my car has been bored slightly, for a displacement of 3.8l, has high-compression Wiseco pistons and connecting rods, a mild racing cam, an AussieSpeed equal-length runner intake manifold with a 360cfm Edelbrock 4 barrel carburettor, as well as a tubular extractor from Hemi Performance. The exhaust system is a 2-1/4" builder's kit from Magnaflow.

Planned upgrades include an aluminium performance radiator from Smith's Radiators and, perhaps, an engine oil cooler, links for which I provide below ;

http://www.smithsradiator.com/mopar/abody/index.html

http://www.andysautosport.com/oil_c...sb_price=Sort+by+Price&sb_brand=Sort+by+Brand

I also have an NOS nitro system installed but have yet to test it.

In any event, a performance slant-6 is fully possible. It just requires more research than a V8 solution, but probably is no cheaper than a swop.

I believe my slant-6 is good for roughly 300hp and sounds quite awesome, especially with the exhaust cut-off open. The Ford 9" rear axle was provided by "Control Freak Suspensions" (who also provided the front axle conversion). It has a "Strange Engineering" limited-slip differential and 4-wheel "Wilwood" disc brakes.
 

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You guys in the US have a big plus - you live close to the shops that are specialized since decades on this cars. And I think it's much easier for you to find a parts car if you are missing something.

Imagine, you would like to restorate a 1972 BMW, that never was officially sold in US. Now you will face a lot of problems you never thaught about...

I bought my 74 Swinger in an acceptable condition, but typical Kraut I wanted it in perfect shape.

It costs $ 10.000 - for this money most of you will get 3 cars, but here it's rare to find simply one.

I brought it to my polish friends, because 1. I've noexperience in US-cars, 2. polish craftmanship is one of the best and 3. the costs for labour are 1/2 of german...

Then I had to search for parts and vendors - but most of these where in US.
I bought parts, used and new ones, for 2.000$ in the US. But you have to add freight (really expensive) another 1.000$, customs 240$ and import-taxes 600$.

Parts bought in EU where another 1.300$

Add labour, work, the paintshop, costs for renting a garage plus plus plus...

Now the car is finished - it will have guzzled incl. all 20.000 €, that are more than 27.000$.

Maybe in Germany it will be it's worth, but nobody would buy it to such a price. Realistic it would be soldable for maybe 20.000$.

But I love this car, and if I would leave this world my daughter or whoever may sell it...

0oec.jpg
 
My dad and I stopped counting at 35K not including the original price of the car 15k but its a 1968 Dodge Charger R/T 440 mag. 600 Horses 4 on the floor. this car fell off a transport going to OKC, it got new full Quarters, fenders, hood, floor, trunk pan, deck lid, engine, trans, glass, all interior. This took a wrecking yard of 50 other chargers to build 1.

Our second project is now my driver, a 1968 BARRACUDA notchback, we are the second owner. The car suffered some front end damage around 1975 and the owner just stuck it in a storage unit, the car has absolutely ZERO rust, in 1999 the owner got in out and decided to have it fixed. The shop put 67 formula fenders, hood, valance, grilles and gave it a tune up and charged him 6K he got mad and sold it for that. The car needs paint and thats it, but it is a great driver. we've got around 20K in this one. It was an original 225 slant with a three on the tree with bucket seats? Now it has an 81/4 rear and a 318 727 console shift combo with front disc breaks and bbp front and rear, and dule exaust. we had the interior redone and then I started driving it and now its a solid driver thats almost NEW.
 
Sounds like you did a great job. Full restore. That's the difference between a fast fun reliable car and a nice looking paperweight on the side of the road. I refuse to begin adding up the things I have done, or plan to do to my car. My main plan is to fix what's broken right now, while slowly stockpiling parts (like an 8 ¾" rear, 360, etc…) One day, when I have the money, parts, and time, it will all come together (I hope lol)
 
In today market you gotta really love a car to spend 40 k restiring it. The market place is full of done cars at bargain prices . Anyone that asks me about buying a certin car i tell them all you need to like is the paint, everything esle unbolts and can be changed
 
I'm building a highly modified 62 Plymouth Valiant here in Australia.....$30,000 - $35,000 is about top dollar for a real good original car and maybe $25,000 for a modified....that said I want a car that is mine, built my way...that is, modern EFI running gear, A/C, power windows, power rack and pinion, 4 wheel disc brakes and a top line luxury leather interior. As I'm a trimmer by trade the interior is the easy part but will still cost around $6,000 in materials, most other things I can do myself at home, but due to work injuries I can nolonger paint cars myself....end result will cost around $50,000 in parts and paint but would cost well over $100,000 to have built by a pro shop...having worked on a few pro built cars I would prefer to build my own car and have control of quality!
Aussie 62 Valiant is my build thread if you want to follow my build
 
With the exception of "helping" my son work on his Pro Street 69 Dart, this is my last go round on a full build. My intention is not to add up all the receipts, but I do have all of them. I can bounce numbers around in my hollow head and I'm well into the mid $40K range now. Being in my early 50's, I find myself wanting the things that I could not have in my teens and twenties etc.. If I die today, my life would not be complete without this car. Its the one, not only me but my wife and son, have always wanted. I've never been a numbers matching guy, I like them modified the way I want it. Lets face it Ma Mopar didn't always make the best decisions. I can feel the wind in my hair as we speak...... I love it
 
Old saying: "It can't be finished. I still have money left!" :happy3:
 
Ive put in 25+ k and thats not including buying the car and landing it in Aus but i dont think about it,i do it because of love not profit.The Dart is unique here and there aint alot of them around.I enjoy driving it providing it aint raining but it gets driven at least once a week but when im behind the wheel time turns back 25 years and yeah it just feels right.That Old school ride!!!!
 
It's def a labor of love for the hobby but worth it for some of us..they are money pits...I sat down once and started figuring costs for the dart and stopped counting at 13k+ and I was only a little over half done and still going,only way to recoup your investment is by the fulfillment and enjoyment it brings in the end,and I wouldnt trade the car or experience for anything,it keeps me going and and someday I will drive it again[bought it running/driving..tore apart for complete resto] Kinda gets frustrating sometimes trying to do it on a shoestring but it's getting there...lots of great car you guys have posted on this site keeps alot more people motivated than you may realize including me....
 
And what Mad Dart left out is the time factor. He has a nice build going but in the interim he bought a "done and running" pro-street car to play with. I have done the same with my ex-drag Demon that I have put a tag on. The fish sits but hopefully I will be getting to the rusty body this summer. But in the meanwhile I wanted to have some fun, so let's buy a heavy duty car and bring it back to the street (vs buying a street car and making it safe for the track).

So, how is that going? My "done and run" Demon is getting patch panels to remove the bondo rust. Next it will get ALL of the race car wiring replaced cause the last guy was an electrical hack and I want to also relocate the switches to where they make more sense for the track. The fuel system needs going through. I have another engine for it and will need a different radiator, headers, exhaust, and who knows what else. Maybe a BB K-frame. But it drives and I can do those things in acceptable bites.

Another factor is the kids these days just don't know about these older cars. They are into EFI not "controlled leaks" that they call carbs. They can put together a fast Fox rustang for a whole lot less money. They swap LS engines with turbos into anything and come out fast and cheap. That is hurting the resale of our old Mopars, but I think a lot of us don't care really as we want the toy to play with while we still can.

No regrets here.
 
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