What ET should my Duster be running?

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Pana.Mopar

Pana.Mopar

Duster Down Under
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
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Location
Sydney, Australia
Hey Guys,

Just for your tech heads and racers out there. What ET should my Duster be running? And any advice on how to pull more power?

Here's some specs of the basic combo..

Weight: 3600 pounds (with my fat *** in it)
383 Big Block - stock crank and rods - 30 thou over
9.2:1 comp (flat tops/no reliefs)
Mopar 484 Purple Cam - Hydraulic Cam
Edelbrock Out of the Box RPM Heads - 84cc with .50 thou taken off & Roller Rockers
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake - 1" spacer
Quickfuel 750 Double Pumper
Schumacher Tri-Y's thru X-Pipe and twin 3"
Stock Chrysler Electronic Ignition - can't get above 28 degrees total timing as dizzy clips hit the head. With Streetfire ECU
727 - B&M Shift Kit and Turbo Action 3,800 stall 10" converter
Sure Grip - 4.11's
M/T Drag Radials - 275/60/15's
SS Springs - Comp Engineering shocks all round

Has run 13.10 @ 106mph but crappy 60ft times of 2.10 - 2.20. On the dyno has pulled 315 rwhp but don't know how accurate that is.

Thanks for the advise guys. I was thinking of getting the comp up (new pistons with reliefs) and putting a bigger cam in it but piston/valve clearance will be the issue. At the moment pistons are 80 down the hole.
 
Pana.Mopar said:
Hey Guys,

Just for your tech heads and racers out there. What ET should my Duster be running? And any advice on how to pull more power?

Here's some specs of the basic combo..

Weight: 3600 pounds (with my fat *** in it)
383 Big Block - stock crank and rods - 30 thou over
9.2:1 comp (flat tops/no reliefs)
Mopar 484 Purple Cam - Hydraulic Cam
Edelbrock Out of the Box RPM Heads - 84cc with .50 thou taken off & Roller Rockers
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake - 1" spacer
Quickfuel 750 Double Pumper
Schumacher Tri-Y's thru X-Pipe and twin 3"
Stock Chrysler Electronic Ignition - can't get above 28 degrees total timing as dizzy clips hit the head. With Streetfire ECU
727 - B&M Shift Kit and Turbo Action 3,800 stall 10" converter
Sure Grip - 4.11's
M/T Drag Radials - 275/60/15's
SS Springs - Comp Engineering shocks all round

Has run 13.10 @ 106mph but crappy 60ft times of 2.10 - 2.20. On the dyno has pulled 315 rwhp but don't know how accurate that is.

Thanks for the advise guys. I was thinking of getting the comp up (new pistons with reliefs) and putting a bigger cam in it but piston/valve clearance will be the issue. At the moment pistons are 80 down the hole.
Click to expand...


Move the spark plug wires over one tower so you can get full advance. What initial are you running?
 
jbc426 said:
Move the spark plug wires over one tower so you can get full advance. What initial are you running?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have to sort this out. It's the actual dizzy cap clip that hits the damn head. Running 12 or 14 initial I think? it was a while ago I had it on the dyno.
 
Fix the timing first, would probally like 20 inital (wild guess)and 34-36 total, That will help, and your 60ft sucks.....is it spinning? Theres probally a 1/2 second left in your combo with tuning, perhaps more.
 
106 mph is good for mid 12's, low 12's with a good hook.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Fix the timing first, would probally like 20 inital (wild guess)and 34-36 total, That will help, and your 60ft sucks.....is it spinning? Theres probally a 1/2 second left in your combo with tuning, perhaps more.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the rear end is really stiff and I need to get to the track and muck around with it more. It was spinning the boots. It was my fault as I was doing mega burnouts with the Drag Radials.

Yeah, I'll fix the timing issue first as well.
 
fishmens67 said:
106 mph is good for mid 12's, low 12's with a good hook.
Click to expand...

I'd be stoked if it runs mid 12's. That's what I'm hoping before I do anything else on it. I've also got NX Hitman set up if I get the itch to go faster but want to get it sorted and run nice and clean.
 
Pana.Mopar said:
Yeah, the rear end is really stiff and I need to get to the track and muck around with it more. It was spinning the boots. It was my fault as I was doing mega burnouts with the Drag Radials.

Yeah, I'll fix the timing issue first as well.
Click to expand...
Ok, skip the mega burnouts with drag radials. The first time i ever made a pass in my 73, i drove AROUND the water box, no burn out, left off idle and just sort of "squeezed" the throttle, 60ft was 1.7ish and et was like 7:11 1/8th mile. Thats a 10' convertor and drag radials.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Ok, skip the mega burnouts with drag radials. The first time i ever made a pass in my 73, i drove AROUND the water box, no burn out, left off idle and just sort of "squeezed" the throttle, 60ft was 1.7ish and et was like 7:11 1/8th mile. Thats a 10' convertor and drag radials.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think I might have to try a few different things next time I go out.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Fix the timing, short burnout with about 15 lbs air pressure as a start, keep us posted
Click to expand...
Pana.Mopar said:
Hey Guys,

Just for your tech heads and racers out there. What ET should my Duster be running? And any advice on how to pull more power?

Here's some specs of the basic combo..

Weight: 3600 pounds (with my fat *** in it)
383 Big Block - stock crank and rods - 30 thou over
9.2:1 comp (flat tops/no reliefs)
Mopar 484 Purple Cam - Hydraulic Cam
Edelbrock Out of the Box RPM Heads - 84cc with .50 thou taken off & Roller Rockers
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake - 1" spacer
Quickfuel 750 Double Pumper
Schumacher Tri-Y's thru X-Pipe and twin 3"
Stock Chrysler Electronic Ignition - can't get above 28 degrees total timing as dizzy clips hit the head. With Streetfire ECU
727 - B&M Shift Kit and Turbo Action 3,800 stall 10" converter
Sure Grip - 4.11's
M/T Drag Radials - 275/60/15's
SS Springs - Comp Engineering shocks all round

Has run 13.10 @ 106mph but crappy 60ft times of 2.10 - 2.20. On the dyno has pulled 315 rwhp but don't know how accurate that is.

Thanks for the advise guys. I was thinking of getting the comp up (new pistons with reliefs) and putting a bigger cam in it but piston/valve clearance will be the issue. At the moment pistons are 80 down the hole.
Click to expand...


Pana.mopar any video of your runs?
 
You could be down 40+ hp with that total timing number.

Fix the timing before spending any time sorting out other things. It's MILES off. It will probably like 35-40 total timing.

106 is roughly a 12.50. There is a ton more in it !
 
Every big block mopar we have had on the dyno with aluminum heads has liked 38 degrees timing the best. Get you timing to there like others have said.
 
.080" in the hole is never a good thing. Take the engine apart and have the block decked .080"

This will wake up the engine and allows the intake to sit higher up on the heads, so the roof on

the cylinder heads can be raised a little and get a good alignment with the intake port roof.

The other thing I would do is get a MSD 6 or 6AL. You need better fire in the wire.

Tom
 
crackedback said:
You could be down 40+ hp with that total timing number.

Fix the timing before spending any time sorting out other things. It's MILES off. It will probably like 35-40 total timing.

106 is roughly a 12.50. There is a ton more in it !
Click to expand...
I was going to mention last night, mr crackedback here has a excellent explination of how to check and get your curve set properly, do a search on that, and FIX the timing!
 
My stealth headed 383 liked 41* total - bend the dist cap clip so it goes by the head, and keep turning the dist like said to 38*-40* total

My motor literally gained 40hp on the engine dyno going from 35* to 41* - gained another 5hp with a 1/2" 4 hole spacer

You have the MSD Street fire CDI box? If so he already has a MSD 6AL.. they're the same thing only the box and price are different

Like said drag radials do not require a long burn out, get a tiny bit of smoke and get out of the box.. you can hear it spinning off the line in your video - the tires get greasy if you go to long.. if you drove the car to the track chances are they are already hot so I'd drive around the burn box..
 
I don't know but my crazy neighbor is always telling me his 67 Chevelle ran 8's thirty years ago with a small block....
 
zac_F71 said:
My stealth headed 383 liked 41* total - bend the dist cap clip so it goes by the head, and keep turning the dist like said to 38*-40* total

My motor literally gained 40hp on the engine dyno going from 35* to 41* - gained another 5hp with a 1/2" 4 hole spacer

You have the MSD Street fire CDI box? If so he already has a MSD 6AL.. they're the same thing only the box and price are different

Like said drag radials do not require a long burn out, get a tiny bit of smoke and get out of the box.. you can hear it spinning off the line in your video - the tires get greasy if you go to long.. if you drove the car to the track chances are they are already hot so I'd drive around the burn box..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. Yeah, its got MSD Streetfire. So far its worked really well. I'm going to sort that timing out first and get it back on dyno for a good tune and check the plugs and I'll take the old girl out again and see how she goes..
 
bOb shingler said:
in the 8th!
Click to expand...

I mentioned that to him and he said "no in the 1/4", hes full of crap, but I humor him. I believe he said it was a DZ 302 out of a Z 28 that propelled that Chevelle to astronomical land speeds, LOL! I know a guy who ran a 68 Chevelle with a 454 and NOS that didn't do 8's LOL 10's, yes, but not 8's
 
Still haven't had the chance to get the Duster back out. Bloody house reno's have gotten in the way and working on the Polara.
Have sorted dizzy problem and will have no issue getting timing into it now and have re-set the rear as well. Hopefully when I get the chance to get it back out there I can break into the 12's.
 
Pana.Mopar said:
Still haven't had the chance to get the Duster back out. Bloody house reno's have gotten in the way and working on the Polara.
Have sorted dizzy problem and will have no issue getting timing into it now and have re-set the rear as well. Hopefully when I get the chance to get it back out there I can break into the 12's.
Click to expand...
Thanks for following up. Lots of folks never do.
The timing fix is easy and essential.
Is your compression really 9.2? Was it checked? Even if it is, that's not much.
Don't give in to N2o or more mods until you get what you have right.
 
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