What Gaskets to use

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65 Dartman

1 of None 65 Dart Sedan Delivery
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I’ve never dealt with aluminum heads or for that natter, aluminum intakes. So looking for guidance from the knowledgeable engine builders on the forum.

1. What head gasket to use with aluminum heads (Edelbrock 60779) on an iron block?

2. What intake gasket to use between said heads and an aluminum intake?

3. What exhaust gasket to use if running headers? Or in the unlikely event using manifolds?

4. Not gasket related but would you use head studs or Edelbrocks head bolts

Thanks in advance for your input
 
1. i use Fel pro 1008. have run up to 12 to 1 compression with no problems. .039 compressed. No sealer of any kind. Clean clean clean surfaces.

2. I like the Edelbrocks. .062 thick.

3. Ive used the Remflex set, but have gone back to the TTI gaskets. For manifolds, I have no clue. I guess the factory gaskets would be best there.

4. Depends on your power. I'm running studs, but also making very good power. Bolts may work for you.
Whatever you do here, make sure they're NEW.

I have studs everywhere you can put them, and it just makes me feel better. Here's a shot of Pinkie!
pinkie.jpg
 
If I'm not mistaken I think those heads call for an extra long bolt on each side so you'll be buying some type of head retainers. That being said, if you use studs and ever want to remove the heads in car, will they slide up those studs and clear your brakes,firewall and hood? Just something to consider.
 
If I'm not mistaken I think those heads call for an extra long bolt on each side so you'll be buying some type of head retainers. That being said, if you use studs and ever want to remove the heads in car, will they slide up those studs and clear your brakes,firewall and hood? Just something to consider.
I have never been able to slide my heads off the studs in my Demon. Everything is just too damn tight. In my case they are there for strength. Not convenience.
 
I have never been able to slide my heads off the studs in my Demon. Everything is just too damn tight. In my case they are there for strength. Not convenience.
Just something to consider. If he's got high compression I'd run the studs and deal with the inconvenience.
 
I just ran the ARP bolts, on my 195psi OOTB Eddies, 367. Have had zero problems. IMO, compression ratio matters only a little, cuz it's the pressure that makes the problem, and the Maximum pressure changes with the Ica, and throttle-opening.
And I ran the FellPros for same reason. My Scr has been as high as 11.3 and as low as 10.7. Current pressure is a tic under 180.

I hope you're not thinking of trying to run those 60779s on a 273, with the 1008 gaskets.
I mean those parts all bolt together ............. but none of them play nice together.
 
Edelbrock list recommended gaskets and bolts for their heads and intakes.
I had looked at the Edelbrock Site and never could find the info. I went back after your post and unless I’m blind (working on it), I didn’t find the info I wanted. If you happen to have a link, thanks in advance

I hope you're not thinking of trying to run those 60779s on a 273, with the 1008 gaskets.
I mean those parts all bolt together ............. but none of them play nice together.

No 273. I have a 318 but do have a line on a 360 but he wants stupid money for it
 
dunno about head gaskets
but i have never had a problem with the aftermarket Expanded graphite on a perforated steel shim inlet and exhaust gaskets.

specifically designed for joints that Might move or are less than perfect
great conformity to the clamped surface.

so when used with a nice perfect surface are excellent

origins of material seems to be where steam oil and smoke are involved and they are used in the atomic power industry
this stuff is used as cast iron steam pipe gasket..

Dave
 
I had looked at the Edelbrock Site and never could find the info. I went back after your post and unless I’m blind (working on it), I didn’t find the info I wanted. If you happen to have a link, thanks in advance



No 273. I have a 318 but do have a line on a 360 but he wants stupid money for it

Sorry, it's with their install instructions, under additional parts required.
 

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Further to post #7
Putting alloy heads onto a stock lo-compression 318, seems to be a sort of a losing battle.
Here is what I have learned;
Sure the chambers are some 7cc smaller, jumping the compression from 8 to ~8.5 .
For a streeter;
However, in Part Throttle Operation, almost a full point of that is sent into the cooling system, as the alloy does what it does, namely, it pulls heat from the chambers. Heat is torque is power. At WOT, they say, this may be reduced to a half a point.
Therefore, to overcome this heat loss, the Scr has to be increased even more.
Furthermore, with the pistons down in the hole, getting a tight Quench is impossible.
And then, to get the pressure up high enough to make the alloy heads worth it, takes a bit of doing.
Whereas in drag-racing, you can still have fun at 8.5 Scr , on the street, tight quench and high cylinder pressure, make first and second gears, insanely much fun. The problem is getting a 318 up to pressures like 195psi. Everything has to be machined and fitted just right, and the right cam installed., It's gonna cost a lot of money.
and Finally, choosing a cam is gonna be real tricky to make BOTH top-end power, with adequate midrange, and the bottom-end will likely have to be sacrificed.
If you're only gonna run 160 or so psi, I see no advantage for a streeter to run alloy heads. Never mind 2.02 heads in a 3.91 bore.

The one advantage that might help a streeter in a situation as described above, is that my 11.3Scr, 195psi ,367, runs WOT on 87E10 with full timing. Thus, for you, it would take the fear of detonation out of the equation; which at 165psi is always a concern.

Considering the additional machining costs of getting a 318 up to pressure, as compared to the 360 getting to 10.7 with just a piston swap (in addition to the 60779s), that 360 might not be so insane. and once the Scr of a 360 is up to 10.7 with a tight-Quench, and with an overdrive; she will except just about any old street cam, any induction, and any rear gears.. so, there's that.
BTW
you can get very similar results with a 340 bottom end, just a lil less bottom-end torque. AND, they say, the early 318s can occasionally be bored to 4.00 .. A local fella here, about 20 years ago, took a chance on 4.04 and won, lol.. This allowed him to run some used 340 pistons, that he already had, which instantly got the pistons up to the deck. Car runs pretty stout on the street.
Personally, on the street;
I see no point in that; boring ain't cheap anymore. and
if you have to buy pistons anyway, well, there's no real monetary gain.

If I had a 318 to hop up, Yes I might run alloy heads, but I go with small-chamber, slightly smaller intake-valves, Magnums, and again with zero decks, or pistons slightly up but not down, and 039 FelPros. I'm having a lotta fun with 032 Quench.
 
Further to post #7
Putting alloy heads onto a stock lo-compression 318, seems to be a sort of a losing battle.
Here is what I have learned;
Sure the chambers are some 7cc smaller, jumping the compression from 8 to ~8.5 .
For a streeter;
However, in Part Throttle Operation, almost a full point of that is sent into the cooling system, as the alloy does what it does, namely, it pulls heat from the chambers. Heat is torque is power. At WOT, they say, this may be reduced to a half a point.
Therefore, to overcome this heat loss, the Scr has to be increased even more.
Furthermore, with the pistons down in the hole, getting a tight Quench is impossible.
And then, to get the pressure up high enough to make the alloy heads worth it, takes a bit of doing.
Whereas in drag-racing, you can still have fun at 8.5 Scr , on the street, tight quench and high cylinder pressure, make first and second gears, insanely much fun. The problem is getting a 318 up to pressures like 195psi. Everything has to be machined and fitted just right, and the right cam installed., It's gonna cost a lot of money.
and Finally, choosing a cam is gonna be real tricky to make BOTH top-end power, with adequate midrange, and the bottom-end will likely have to be sacrificed.
If you're only gonna run 160 or so psi, I see no advantage for a streeter to run alloy heads. Never mind 2.02 heads in a 3.91 bore.

The one advantage that might help a streeter in a situation as described above, is that my 11.3Scr, 195psi ,367, runs WOT on 87E10 with full timing. Thus, for you, it would take the fear of detonation out of the equation; which at 165psi is always a concern.

Considering the additional machining costs of getting a 318 up to pressure, as compared to the 360 getting to 10.7 with just a piston swap (in addition to the 60779s), that 360 might not be so insane. and once the Scr of a 360 is up to 10.7 with a tight-Quench, and with an overdrive; she will except just about any old street cam, any induction, and any rear gears.. so, there's that.
BTW
you can get very similar results with a 340 bottom end, just a lil less bottom-end torque. AND, they say, the early 318s can occasionally be bored to 4.00 .. A local fella here, about 20 years ago, took a chance on 4.04 and won, lol.. This allowed him to run some used 340 pistons, that he already had, which instantly got the pistons up to the deck. Car runs pretty stout on the street.
Personally, on the street;
I see no point in that; boring ain't cheap anymore. and
if you have to buy pistons anyway, well, there's no real monetary gain.

If I had a 318 to hop up, Yes I might run alloy heads, but I go with small-chamber, slightly smaller intake-valves, Magnums, and again with zero decks, or pistons slightly up but not down, and 039 FelPros. I'm having a lotta fun with 032 Quench.

Power loss due to switch to aluminum heads and higher thermal conductivity rate has been debunked. Above about 2200 RPM the combustion cycles too quickly for any appreciable heat transfer to occur into the cylinder head; vast majority of heat going into the head comes from the exhaust valves and ports. It also works both ways where the aluminum transfers more heat into the fuel+air mixture than iron during intake and compression strokes so the net effect is negligible.

If you have the means to put aluminum heads on a low-comp 318, do it; there's no reason not to.
 
Just use blue glue and tighten um up good.
 
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