What If Build Ideas...for Land Speed Racing

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71GSSDemon said:
I am on that forum also (read...trying). Starting with a known chassis/car would likely be the way to go, but also wish I could use this one (read I am poor). I just need to know if I am doing Ok or if Hello No!. It would help with the next steps. I reached out to a NHRA chassis cert guy and JoAnne from the SCTA. Maybe someone can shed some light if it is worth chasing this at this time, or just learn and move towards a dedicated chassis for a real trial. It has been an emotional roller coaster for sure....hopes and yes I can at least try and see what it does to... who are you kidding to think to try that...to there is no way it will work. So, that said, is there a way to make the chassis ok? then the rest falls in line, try and also the haters can pound sand. I don't know anymore
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Some guys live their dreams through others actions. (Think guys that follow drag week every year saying they would like to try that). This is your dream so do it on your terms. If and when it happens is totally up to you. If I’m guessing right CANT isn’t in your vocabulary. Live the dream.
 
TT5.9mag said:
If you’re addressing me, I say that because you quoted me, I’ve been to the salt many times and have had to stand there, water up to my ankles and turn around to drive 13 hours home.
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Aimed at anyone that has not been, so they get an insight into the event. Pretty much different than any other motorsport.
 
Ok, thanks guys. I just got off a call from Steve Davies from SCTA. He was super helpful and encouraging. Answered lots of questions and gave me names to send pics and such to.

Helped a ton
 
71GSSDemon said:
Fear is setting in that this is just a dumb dream. Just make it a fun car, then build/buy a ready built chassis and have it dedicated to this plan. This is plan B, and may be too late to make it good/safe enough at this point.
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If you just want to go fast, have you looked at something like Silver State Challenge?
It's a timed road event and they got classes that can go over 200 mph, but most of the lower classes need a roll bar at best, and the top 2 classes need a cage. So you can work your way up through the classes as you can afford it, I've always wanted to someday run it myself.
 
273 said:
If you just want to go fast, have you looked at something like Silver State Challenge?
It's a timed road event and they got classes that can go over 200 mph, but most of the lower classes need a roll bar at best, and the top 2 classes need a cage. So you can work your way up through the classes as you can afford it, I've always wanted to someday run it myself.
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SSCC is pretty sweet. Bonneville is Mecca for me and where I want to go and try. Talking with SCTA just now helped a bunch.
 
273 said:
If you just want to go fast, have you looked at something like Silver State Challenge?
It's a timed road event and they got classes that can go over 200 mph, but most of the lower classes need a roll bar at best, and the top 2 classes need a cage. So you can work your way up through the classes as you can afford it, I've always wanted to someday run it myself.
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That is an event that I have not done (in any capacity) and is a bucket list item for me. One day.
 
71GSSDemon said:
SSCC is pretty sweet. Bonneville is Mecca for me and where I want to go and try. Talking with SCTA just now helped a bunch.
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Could always run both and more, there's tons of different event types out there.
 
273 said:
Maybe instead of worrying about 200 start with lesser speed goals and work your way up
Here's a guy that previously did 130 mph in a different car and now is going for 150 mph in his Mercury Cyclone with just a roll bar.

Bonneville Salt Flats 150 MPH Club in a Street Car - Information on collecting cars - Legendary Collector Cars

Wonder if you could use an old stock car chassis, can pick them up fairly cheap.
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The biggest point of focusing on 200 from the start is to make the chassis correct and compliant from the start. If I do/did things wrong only to be turned away and have to tear it all back apart and start over. I would like to address that now, in the building stage. I know there are licensing runs at 130, 150, 175, then AA for 200 +. Just want to focus more on more HP and such without tearing it all back down. Advantage to Bonneville is weight is a friend. So build it for 250 but drive it 130 is ok. Most other classes the unnecessary added weight would be a penalty.

Apparently a C500 may cause an issue as there wasn't 500 or more made. Could be part of a sub category, but I don't have that answer yet. The frame is 2x4x0.1875, the cage is 1.625x0.120 mild steel. Those both fit what I can do in Gas Altered or maybe sneak into Classic Gas Altered. To run turbos and E85 or alcohol, it adds about 100mph to the record. It turns out you can run in "open time" and not fit into a class, but then there is no chance to get a hat/patch. No records will be broke by this guy, unless it is some obscure one nobody has thought of.
 
71GSSDemon said:
The biggest point of focusing on 200 from the start is to make the chassis correct and compliant from the start. If I do/did things wrong only to be turned away and have to tear it all back apart and start over. I would like to address that now, in the building stage. I know there are licensing runs at 130, 150, 175, then AA for 200 +. Just want to focus more on more HP and such without tearing it all back down. Advantage to Bonneville is weight is a friend. So build it for 250 but drive it 130 is ok. Most other classes the unnecessary added weight would be a penalty.

Apparently a C500 may cause an issue as there wasn't 500 or more made. Could be part of a sub category, but I don't have that answer yet. The frame is 2x4x0.1875, the cage is 1.625x0.120 mild steel. Those both fit what I can do in Gas Altered or maybe sneak into Classic Gas Altered. To run turbos and E85 or alcohol, it adds about 100mph to the record. It turns out you can run in "open time" and not fit into a class, but then there is no chance to get a hat/patch. No records will be broke by this guy, unless it is some obscure one nobody has thought of.
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I get why you were keeping an eye towards 200 mph, and is a good idea to but sometimes It makes it so daunting that stops you from even starting and accomplish an achievable goal,
which to build from.
 
273 said:
I get why you were keeping an eye towards 200 mph, and is a good idea to but sometimes It makes it so daunting that stops you from even starting and accomplish an achievable goal,
which to build from.
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the daunting part was... is what I have ok to build off of or start over. From here, going to get another 40ft of 1.75x0.120 DOM to keep on working. Too much cage and support is just enough it seems. Not sure about when a funny car halo comes into effect.
 
71GSSDemon said:
the daunting part was... is what I have ok to build off of or start over. From here, going to get another 40ft of 1.75x0.120 DOM to keep on working. Too much cage and support is just enough it seems. Not sure about when a funny car halo comes into effect.
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May not answer your question but in NHRA the funny car cage is added when you upgrade from 8.50 to 7.50.
 
71 GSS seems to be thinking straight. Build the chassis/cage to go 250. Then it is not an additional cost to work up from say 150 with more power. Engines, well they are almost like brake pads and rotors, expendable items.
The first steps are working with tech to build the appropriate chassis/cage. Then build an engine to work on licensing. Once you get licensed for 130 the rest is just steps on the path, expensive steps mind you.
 
well my tires where rated for 400 miles an hour , and my cage and safety gear , fire system will be way better than needed for my 200 mph pass , weight is an issue , but it's safety first ! as a young man i ran my 37 dodge p/u up to 160 mph on the freeway , it cuts the air very well going forward , side profile is a bit flatter and a side wind cause be trouble some . the body must stay of stock configuration , so the windshield angle is the only thing that will slow the air from traveling over the body cab . a cooler tank and fuel tank in the bed and the radiator in the bed as well will be there for added traction , the inner coolers with replace the radiator up front , and that all iron motor up front should keep it on the ground

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i was told by many land speed guys to be something different out there , and people will help you meet your goals . here is a pic of a friends teams car . ken is the crew-chief and lead designer fab man on this liner . and my bud butch here with a couple of his hemi builds . butch has been 300 mph in his own build streamliner with twin 500 cads turbo charged

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Dale Davies said:
71 GSS seems to be thinking straight. Build the chassis/cage to go 250. Then it is not an additional cost to work up from say 150 with more power. Engines, well they are almost like brake pads and rotors, expendable items.
The first steps are working with tech to build the appropriate chassis/cage. Then build an engine to work on licensing. Once you get licensed for 130 the rest is just steps on the path, expensive steps mind you.
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Would probably be best way, but as long the frame mainly and roll bar work with future plans he could build a 130-150 mph car now and go full out later with cage etc.. Either way whatever suits his needs best.
 
pomonamissel said:
well my tires where rated for 400 miles an hour , and my cage and safety gear , fire system will be way better than needed for my 200 mph pass , weight is an issue , but it's safety first ! as a young man i ran my 37 dodge p/u up to 160 mph on the freeway , it cuts the air very well going forward , side profile is a bit flatter and a side wind cause be trouble some . the body must stay of stock configuration , so the windshield angle is the only thing that will slow the air from traveling over the body cab . a cooler tank and fuel tank in the bed and the radiator in the bed as well will be there for added traction , the inner coolers with replace the radiator up front , and that all iron motor up front should keep it on the ground

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When is this project going to be done. Looks like it has a long ways to go. Lol
 
So, I just ordered another 40ft of 1.75x0.120 DOM for tomorrow noon pickup. I want to get most of the hard to reach bars in before door bars and such. Then I am going to also X brace the frame rails under the drivers compartment and over the rear axle - that will be tied into the rear shock mount.

Also, for HP, it seems the best bang for the buck down the road is a used R5P7. There are a few for sale for $10-25K. That definitely is down the road, but 800+HP and lots of RPM seems like a solid combo.
 
273 said:
Would probably be best way, but as long the frame mainly and roll bar work with future plans he could build a 130-150 mph car now and go full out later with cage etc.. Either way whatever suits his needs best.
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Just need to get a bunch of hard to reach areas done while there is room. I am working the floors and the center counsel as that made of roll bar tubing and tied in from the dash bar to rear frame and the floor in between. When I am happy with the tubing, then I will sort out HP. I know it will be years of build and licensing/weather so, lets get it going and upgrade from there as we go
 
Is the change to an R5P7 to get you out of the blown classes?
 
TT5.9mag said:
Is the change to an R5P7 to get you out of the blown classes?
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No change actually made. Just researching how to make HP. I didn't know those were even available until this AM. Little out of touch. It will be built with the 383 for now and decide down the road. I need to get it built and drive it, then worry about the best way to make the HP. Likely may just make passes in Open/timed if needed. Then I can do all the aero I want also, just chase the slip showing the magic number. I have some ideas if I wasn't limited by class rules.
 
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71GSSDemon said:
So, I just ordered another 40ft of 1.75x0.120 DOM for tomorrow noon pickup. I want to get most of the hard to reach bars in before door bars and such. Then I am going to also X brace the frame rails under the drivers compartment and over the rear axle - that will be tied into the rear shock mount.

Also, for HP, it seems the best bang for the buck down the road is a used R5P7. There are a few for sale for $10-25K. That definitely is down the road, but 800+HP and lots of RPM seems like a solid combo.
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Get that engine as complete as possible and try to figure out what parts you need and get working on them. Lots of fab work will probably be needed. Might be worth a call to Ritter to see what he has laying around.
 
i'm currently working out the bugs in my intercooled intake design . but the bottom end and heads are ready to assemble , trans is ready . still need an od unit , quick charge rear end is on hand , just need some tall gears for it . oh ya the most important part is the rear rims , 18x6's taylors made rims are the cream of them . but taylor's not producing land speed rims for some reason . they are a lot more work than nascar rims . so i'm in need of the rear rims , fronts are not an issue , just 15x4/5 steels .
 
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