What ignition should I use???

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krazykuda

krazykuda

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I've been struggling with a decision for a few years.


I have a Superbird with low mileage that used to be my dad's. He bought it from the original owner back in '81. We only drove it about 1500 miles since we have had it, it has not been out of the garage since it did a parade lap at Talledega with the Daytona/Superbird Club back in '88. (Of course it was trailered down there and back).


Right now, it has a Mallory mechanical advance distributor. I don't like how I can wiggle the cap when the clips are fully engaged. It seems too flimsy and worries me.


I have a MP electronic conversion kit, but I'm hesitating to install it.

I really don't want to alter the car if I can help it. I want to keep it as close to stock as possible (or at least be able to be put to stock with simple bolt-ons). If I do install it, I want to try not to put any extra holes in the body if I don't have to. Or if I have to, maybe only one, but I would rather not drill a hole if I don't have to. Maybe combine it with another part that already has a bolt and a hole in the engine compartment, like the voltage regulator, as long as I can get a good ground for it.

Or should I just bite the bullet and find out where they were put from the factory on b-bodies and just drill and install the two bolts like a "factory" installation.


I know many enthusiast put electronic ignition on their collectable cars and most don't feel it reduces the value. I still do not want to drill any holes in the body to mount it if I can avoid it, as I want to keep as close to how it came from the factory as possible.

What do you guys (and gals) think that I should to???
 
The newer cap mopar dist will wiggle the same way.

If It's just gonna stay in the garage and just started occasionally I would leave it stock myself
 
GEO said:
The newer cap mopar dist will wiggle the same way.

If It's just gonna stay in the garage and just started occasionally I would leave it stock myself
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I don't have the original distributor any more. I would have to hunt down an old dual point. That was another option that crossed my mind.


I do want it to be able to start and take it out for a spin once in a while. When things sit too long, parts like to stick together....
 
The best thing you can do for a rarely driven car is put a battery tender on it.

It keeps the battery topped off and starts like you drove it yesterday after sitting for months.

It also helps prevent corrosion in the wiring because it keeps a current in the system
 
Why do folks say throw the points in the ditch all the time? I don't understand. Find a correct point type distributor and have it set up with a performance curve to match the engine. Nothing wrong with points. Some things still come with them today. They've worked well over 100 years. That's a pretty solid rep in my book. Just make sure you hunt around for a quality set(s). I am sure you can find some Standard Blue Streak stuff. A point distributor set up correctly can perform every bit as good as electronic until around 6K RPM. Only then do they really show a difference......that and of course electronic is more durable.
 
X2 Rusty. A stock point style distributor will last for years in that car. A Pertronics kit is also a great alternitive. tmm
 
I don't have a recommendation one way or the other but if my 69 "S" ever gets done Im installing the original dual point. I like the stock look too Karl. I may look at pertronix or another member here mounted his ecu under the dash.
 
4spdragtop said:
I don't have a recommendation one way or the other but if my 69 "S" ever gets done Im installing the original dual point. I like the stock look too Karl. I may look at pertronix or another member here mounted his ecu under the dash.
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The Pertronix unit does add another wire to the mix but it isn't too obvious.
 
I agree with Rusty, and others. I have owned several cars with point distributors. Some would rev deep into the 6s without issues. Almost every spring though I would have to clean the points, so it would start. It seems the points would oxidate to the point of no start during the winter storage if the points happened to be open. I have seen this on all kinds of farm and recreational equipment as well. I say leave it, but be prepaired to clean them now and again; no big deal. Ok so I thought about it a little more; for you it might be a big deal on account of the dist. being about a mile away from no matter how close you will be standing beside the car. As to the cap moving around, no big deal either; it doesnt usually affect anything. Sometimes I have improved the clip clamp by bending them. A dualpoint would be a good option as its highly unlikely to oxidate both sets of points during storage. And the oem dist usually has a stronger clamping force on the clips.
The factory ecu from a 70 up could be mounted inside the cab.The ballast however needs free air movement around it to prevent overheating and/or setting nearby stuff on fire. The ecu absolutely needs grounding.
 
I have ran the piss out of points on a daily basis for years. they work fine. a little adjustment now and then, no big deal. I would just keep it stock. im sure this car will never see street warrior status, so theres really no reason to do a bunch of upgrades, let alone drill holes...
 
I would have to agree with the "leave it stock" people and find a replacement for that distributor.
Since it's a Superbird and not a daily driver especially.
 
most all of us "old" guys would say points worked fine back then and still do. I would also find a correct dual point. IMO that car will last longer if ya take it out for a ride every month.....
 
IMO, if you're taking a pole, I'd say find a correct distributor, refurb it, and call it complete.
 
73AbodEE said:
I would just keep it stock. im sure this car will never see street warrior status, so theres really no reason to do a bunch of upgrades, let alone drill holes...
Click to expand...


I want to keep the mods to a minimum. Right now the only non-stock parts are the mallory distributor, and the chrome valve covers.

However, being a low mile original non-restored six pack car, I want to keep it as close to factory original as I can. I may eventually try to find the stock style valve covers for it.

Here's a few pictures of it as it sits in the garage:

The speedometer:

View attachment Sprbrd 031314 Speedo A04 B.jpg

The engine:

View attachment Sprbrd 031314 Eng lt A01 B.jpg

View attachment Sprbrd 031314 Eng Rt A01 B.jpg

Side view:

View attachment Sprbrd 031314 Rt Side A01 B.jpg

Here's a picture from the last time it was out at Talledega for the parade lap back in '88:

View attachment Sprbrd Tall A01 C2.jpg
 
MSD ready to run dizzy.No extra wires or ignition box to hook up.Clean and simple to hook up.
 
I vote with the keep it as it was from the factory. Something else I'd do is to put down plastic under that bad boy as a moisture barrier.
 
krazykuda said:
I don't have the original distributor any more. I would have to hunt down an old dual point. That was another option that crossed my mind.

I do want it to be able to start and take it out for a spin once in a while. When things sit too long, parts like to stick together....
Click to expand...

KK...The Bird is just beautiful and an awesome piece of Mopar history. I vote to find an original date coded dual point distributor just to have with the car. It's only original once, so don't drill any holes...

Install an electronic ignition for occasional spins..I'll be right over LOL :)
 
Oh and you can replace the ready to run dizzy with a stock dizzy in only a few minutes.Pertronix is another good idea..
 
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