what is involved in rebuilding k-h disc brake calipers?????????????

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340plot

340plot

the bushy bush
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i need to rebuild a set fo them, and i have never taken a set aprt.
i see the rebuild kits on rock auto. but i do not see where to get the short pre-bent short brake lines at? anyone?

do i need a small hone to do these brakes?
or would it be best to just use mine as cores? and get the ones from rock auto?

enlighten me, please
 
340plot said:
i need to rebuild a set fo them, and i have never taken a set aprt.
i see the rebuild kits on rock auto. but i do not see where to get the short pre-bent short brake lines at? anyone?

do i need a small hone to do these brakes?
or would it be best to just use mine as cores? and get the ones from rock auto?

enlighten me, please
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Well most I have seen need new pistons as the chrome starts peeling on them. By the time you replace the pistons, o rings, and rubber boots you would be money ahead to use yours as cores IMO.

Maybe take yours apart for inspection before deciding on a direction to take. If the pistons are bad they will be a real pain to get them out.:banghead:
 
ok, so, i took channel ock lightly to the rubber seal, so it did not mar the metal, and i cannot even get the pistons to move a bit!.

thanks zhan!. will use them as cores
 
Trade them for reman'd calipers with stainless pistons.
 
I have rebuilt on a set of K-H brakes this winter. They had been mounted on a 67 Dart, never dismounted. It took me a week just to get the calipers apart (a lot of penetrating oil was needed), where after the challenge was to get the pistons out. I used compressed air, it worked but was not exactly harmlessly. Pistons came with high speed when they released. I bought four new pistons and a complete set of gaskets from Rock Auto. Four pistons were ok, these I kept. I honed and assembled the calipers. The short brake lines, sitting on the calipers were rejected, I bent new by myself. Have driven the car with my KH disc brakes for three months, is 100% satisfied.
 

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I just went through mine, calipers, pads, rotors, bearings, seals, hoses, 170.00 w/o caliper core price. centric reman seem to be the cheapest core prices are high. I got them through fast undercar which is a wholesale dist, cant walk in and buy need a buddy in the know if they are in your area.
 
Djakken said:
I have rebuilt on a set of K-H brakes this winter. They had been mounted on a 67 Dart, never dismounted. It took me a week just to get the calipers apart (a lot of penetrating oil was needed), where after the challenge was to get the pistons out. I used compressed air, it worked but was not exactly harmlessly. Pistons came with high speed when they released. I bought four new pistons and a complete set of gaskets from Rock Auto. Four pistons were ok, these I kept. I honed and assembled the calipers. The short brake lines, sitting on the calipers were rejected, I bent new by myself. Have driven the car with my KH disc brakes for three months, is 100% satisfied.
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holy crap....... those aren't copper brake lines on your car are they? why would you do such a thing?
 
Djakken said:
Trouble, why?
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Annealed copper 3/16 is only rated at around 1600 -- 1900 psi working pressure. There is a REASON that NO manufacturer uses copper tube in brake systems

So far as using air to pop pistons out, this is easy if you put some thought in

1 Try to use grease which reduces accidents

2 if you do use oil, or air, "rig" the pistons by assembling the caliper around a thing plate so that they have a stop, and pad and wrap the thing with rags so the piston cannot "get away" or do damage to itself or other things / people.

Especially single piston brakes, SERIOUSLY consider buying rebuilts. They are guaranteed, something your work is not. That is, you buy kits, and they leak. "Now what?" You buy rebuilts and THEY leak, you take 'em back
 
Djakken said:
Trouble, why?
Click to expand...

67Dart273 said:
Annealed copper 3/16 is only rated at around 1600 -- 1900 psi working pressure. There is a REASON that NO manufacturer uses copper tube in brake systems

So far as using air to pop pistons out, this is easy if you put some thought in

1 Try to use grease which reduces accidents

2 if you do use oil, or air, "rig" the pistons by assembling the caliper around a thing plate so that they have a stop, and pad and wrap the thing with rags so the piston cannot "get away" or do damage to itself or other things / people.

Especially single piston brakes, SERIOUSLY consider buying rebuilts. They are guaranteed, something your work is not. That is, you buy kits, and they leak. "Now what?" You buy rebuilts and THEY leak, you take 'em back
Click to expand...

The post ^^^^^ is the accurate information. Copper is the wrong material for this.
 
340plot said:
i need to rebuild a set fo them, and i have never taken a set aprt.
i see the rebuild kits on rock auto. but i do not see where to get the short pre-bent short brake lines at? anyone?

do i need a small hone to do these brakes?
or would it be best to just use mine as cores? and get the ones from rock auto?

enlighten me, please
Click to expand...

Remember this thread?

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=189024&highlight=kelsey+hayes+caliper+lines

hemi71x said:
I rebuild brake and suspension parts as a little side line business, and i just finished up rebuilding this 65-72 A body Kelsey Hayes disc brake set up.



Calipers have new pads,new rebuilding kits, new rubber brake hoses, and all the hose brackets, and pad hold down clips, caliper hard lines are all there.



Rotors are new. All the lug studs are right hand thread. All the wheel bearings, grease seals, are all there.



Everything has been thouroughly cleaned, then soaked out in a solution of Evaporust, then painted up with Rustoleum paint, and put back together.



Included is the disc brake proportioning valve, and the hard lines to the master cylinder.



This is a complete set up, but you will need to purchase your own DISC brake master cylinder to use these disc brakes, wether you buy one for manual brakes, or power brakes, that will depend on what you will be using.

Also if your existing lower ball joints are in good condition, you will have to drill out the mounting bolt holes to 9/16 inch, or purchase new Disc brake lower ball joints.



Selling everything for $775.00, plus what it costs for boxes, and the FEDEX shiping to your zip code. Price is firm. I spend lots of labor time hours to rebuild these parts, and what it costs for parts.



Have plenty of other pictures that i can send to you, if you are a serious buyer for my parts.

This is the current set up that i was putting together for sale.

Contact me through this forum with a PM message.

Thank's

Jim V.
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340plot said:
yea, i sell alot of set of disc brake, and get around 250.00 for them, and still need to be redone. you cannot buy a core setup and do all this work for this selling price !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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There were tools invented, back in the day, that mechanics, rebuilders, used to get pistons out of their bores, in 4 piston calipers.
The best way i tell people, is to pump them out hydraulically with grease, out of a grease gun.
 

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Or if your real lucky in having the factory, Miller Special Tool Company, piston removal tool.
This tool works sweet.
 

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oklacar, yes, i remember that thread!!!!!!!!!!!!! they are awesome!. i think that may be the best way to go, if i could use my entire setup as a core trade price.lol. ill have to ask.lol
 
hemi71x, would you take my entire setup in as cores, including control arms and all in as cores, sell me a rebuilt set, or could you give me a price to rebuild all my stuff?.lol
 
340plot said:
oklacar, yes, i remember that thread!!!!!!!!!!!!! they are awesome!. i think that may be the best way to go, if i could use my entire setup as a core trade price.lol. ill have to ask.lol
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Or you could sell your set outright and not have to pay shipping to return them. There is always more then one option.
 
hemi, whats and average for just the parts to redo a set of these?
 
340plot
You really don't need to have anyone rebuild your entire set up of brakes.

All that you really need to have done is caliper rebuilding.

I get asked to do them from time to time from members.

As a matter of fact i just sent a pair to a member up in Washington State.
He should be getting them sometime today, as a matter of fact.

I will send you a PM tonight about brakes, rebuilding, shipping, all the good stuff.

I now only have just one set up of my complete rebuilt brake set up's left in stock.
Sold a pair to another member earlier this morning, that i now have to package up, and FEDEX out.

When this last set up goes, that's it.
No more for me.
I won't be doing them any longer, as i have written about in other posting reply's.
Just been to difficult to find set up's to economically, professionally, for me to rebuild them, and sell them.
Modern day shipping charges doesn't make it profitable in buying anything, if i can't find anything locally.
And that hasn't been happening anymore.
Jim V.
 
hey, maybe we can work out a deal to keep you in business ! i find these all the time.lol
nah, they are getting hard to find. and for what you sell the setup for, they cannot be redone for that!
 
67Dart273 said:
Annealed copper 3/16 is only rated at around 1600 -- 1900 psi working pressure. There is a REASON that NO manufacturer uses copper tube in brake systems
Click to expand...

exactly, brakes work at a working pressure of about 1200 PSI under easy braking, that would be if your coming to a stop sign you know is there and have plenty of time to stop.

the trouble starts when you have to stop quick with no notice such as an animal jumps out in front of you or a kid comes out in front of you on a bicycle or chasing a ball

then the working pressure can be as high as 2500 PSI+ your copper lines are blown and your doing your best not to be front page news the next morning

good steel lines with no rust is the way to go, and inspected often, its the only thing that stands between a nice cruise and jail time
 
hemi71x said:
http://www.finelinesinc.com/catalog...cts_id=4483&osCsid=pbnrvjl1ndsbrkiho7e1ravil2

For that guy in Sweden with the COPPER brake lines.
Get rid of those things now.
You can also get them from the Fine Lines Co. here in the states.
I have been buying from this company for years.
Jim V.
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I agree that there should be steel brake lines, as it was from the beginning. But there is no problem to use these brake lines, there is a copper nickel alloy, not pure copper. This material is commonly used in Europe, even in racing. Maybe I change to steel this winter. Thank's for the tip.
/Per
 
Djakken said:
I agree that there should be steel brake lines, as it was from the beginning. But there is no problem to use these brake lines, there is a copper nickel alloy, not pure copper. This material is commonly used in Europe, even in racing. Maybe I change to steel this winter. Thank's for the tip.
/Per
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maybe saftey standards aren't as high as in the US and canada, but if an inspection station finds a hint of copper lines they will make you replace every piece of it too; copper nickel alloy still isn't as strong as steel; some use stainless steel I'm not sure how that holds up, I think stainless is likely alright as its quite hard
 
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