What is minimum electrical required to start my car?

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Bulldozer said:
well apparently I can't upload photos anymore without a degree in rocket Scientology. so at this point I'm of no use. I would suggest hooking up a GM module for your ignition because you can bypass the ballast, ignition box and wiring , the stock coil. you only need 12v from the key to run it.
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I asked my brother... he said he has GM hei module and will bring it over tomorrow... ok see if I got this right(wiring part).... battery negative to motor ground... battery hot to starter... Battery hot to toggle switch to solenoid... battery hot to GM module that goes to the distributors both side of wires..... flip toggle switch and it should attempt to start and if does flip toggle switch back and it should stay running... unhook battery and it should die????? do I have this correct???
 
If you want to try a GM module, here is the diagram:

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NOTE:

Notice the blue "ground" symbol on one of the mounting holes. Look at the back of the module. There is a plastic locating tit you have to cut/ file off so it "lays" flat and you have to mount it flat on something (flat sheet of aluminum) so it has some "heat sink." DO NOT try to run it "in air" you need something for a "sink."

NOTICE the way the distributor is hooked up, showing the "bare" terminal on the dist. connector. This changes the timing if wrong.

I run my car with an HEI, and I also made an "emergency" module, with an HEI module in a box, and a coil. All you need is green clip to ground, yellow to 12V, hook up coil wire to distributor, and off you go

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I WOULD NOT DO THIS JUST YET. You can easily introduce MORE TROUBLE especially since you are inexperienced. I WOULD MAKE some checks of your existing system FIRST

ONE EXAMPLE is "if you have" a bad distributor/ distributor pickup. In that case, wiring up an HEI will not do a damn thing except waste your time and cause more confusion.
 
AnswerBook said:
I asked my brother... he said he has GM hei module and will bring it over tomorrow... ok see if I got this right(wiring part).... battery negative to motor ground... battery hot to starter... Battery hot to toggle switch to solenoid... battery hot to GM module that goes to the distributors both side of wires..... flip toggle switch and it should attempt to start and if does flip toggle switch back and it should stay running... unhook battery and it should die????? do I have this correct???
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follow Dels (67dart273) advice , he is the man for this stuff, he's bailed me out a few times
 
Get a magneto, you could crank start that motor. Kettering ignition (points) take nothing but battery voltage. you can run it off a 12v lantern battery once its started without an alternator. Ever throw a alternator belt, car keeps going on battery power. Coil/points take about 4-6A to run so theoretically with a 50A/hr battery a car could run 70 hours with no external charge. Starting is a big chore, could draw 100A easily: probably more with the old Mopar starter.
 
In all my many hours of research last night... I am going to check out the distributor... when nephew drove it away(went 8 blocks and parked it) it was on gas can and hot wired to coil from battery... he might not of unhooked it... saw where if that is left attached for more than 15 minutes without it running it could burn up the distributor... guessing he might have done that... gonna check distributor later when I get the chance
 
AnswerBook said:
In all my many hours of research last night... I am going to check out the distributor... when nephew drove it away(went 8 blocks and parked it) it was on gas can and hot wired to coil from battery... he might not of unhooked it... saw where if that is left attached for more than 15 minutes without it running it could burn up the distributor... guessing he might have done that... gonna check distributor later when I get the chance
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Actually it would burn up the coil, because the constant voltage through the coil without the ballast inline would fry it.
 
When I was 14 years old my Dad made me help him repair lawn mowers (for his friends). He would make me hold the plug wire to judge if the mower had enough spark. I would hold the wire and he would turn the flywheel (by hand). @#&^%$^)(&)&)(*_)....I never did get used to the shock!:mad::mob::poke::soapbox:
 
TrailBeast said:
Actually it would burn up the coil, because the constant voltage through the coil without the ballast inline would fry it.
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yes I saw where it burn up coil, but said distributor also... i have checked coil, it is still good, but have not checked distributor as nephew was/is not smart enough to take the bolts out, out alone completely remove it
 
AnswerBook said:
yes I saw where it burn up coil, but said distributor also... i have checked coil, it is still good, but have not checked distributor as nephew was/is not smart enough to take the bolts out, out alone completely remove it
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Never seen or heard of it taking a distributor with it unless it was one with an ignition module inside it.
 
AnswerBook said:
Trying to find where I read that at last night, have not found it yet... but if not burn up distributor - awesome news
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The distributor only sends a signal of about 1 volt to the ignition module when spinning and no outside voltage goes into it.
That's why I say it doesn't hurt the distributor.
 
TrailBeast said:
The distributor only sends a signal of about 1 volt to the ignition module when spinning and no outside voltage goes into it.
That's why I say it doesn't hurt the distributor.
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if left hooked up... wire from battery to positive side of coil... wouldnt the coil keep trying to send "power" to the distributor? ... only asking because I absolutely have no clue and you have knowledge ty
 
AnswerBook said:
if left hooked up... wire from battery to positive side of coil... wouldnt the coil keep trying to send "power" to the distributor? ... only asking because I absolutely have no clue and you have knowledge ty
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The distributor doesn't connect to the coil, it only connects to the ignition module.
(Unless your current system is not the stock box and distributor)

The distributor sends a signal to the mopar box, and tells it to drop power to the coil.
When it drops the power to the coil you get a spark.

I think what you read might have said it could trash the coil or module.(ign box)
 
the dis
TrailBeast said:
The distributor doesn't connect to the coil, it only connects to the ignition module.
(Unless your current system is not the stock box and distributor)

The distributor sends a signal to the mopar box, and tells it to drop power to the coil.
When it drops the power to the coil you get a spark.

I think what you read might have said it could trash the coil or module.(ign box)
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the distributor DOES connect to the coil - through the COIL WIRE - isn't that where the distributor get the "fire" from the coil????
 
AnswerBook said:
the dis

the distributor DOES connect to the coil - through the COIL WIRE - isn't that where the distributor get the "fire" from the coil????
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There is no path from the battery to the distributor. There are two types of circuits in the Mopar breakerless distributor

The pickup coil can be considered in some manner as a tiny generator. It has a magnet and a coil, and generates tiny spikes which trigger the module to turn off the coil at the time the spark should happen

The distributor cap takes high voltage, low current sparks from the coil and "distributes" them to the proper cylinder.

WHAT YOU CAN BURN UP

If you hot wire a car, you might burn up the alternator field, and or the voltage regulator

You could burn up the BALLAST RESISTOR, and the ignition COIL. On an older car with breaker points you will likely ruin the BREAKER POINTS
 
Garry in AZ said:
The car won't crank? That's not an ignition problem... The car should still turn over on the starter even with the distributor connector unplugged. The polarity of the meter connections doesn't really matter, you are just looking for a sign of voltage. Set the meter to read DC volts, if it's not auto-ranging, you want the low end of the scale, like 5 volts. When the distributor shaft rotates, magnets pass by the pickup coil and generate a voltage. That's what you are trying to verify with the meter. If you don't see any voltage (meter doesn't change readings even briefly) then the pickup coil is likely bad.
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did that... ty pick up coil is good
 
ok here are the pics NOW just from pics no way you cn figure out the problem ... I know most will say rightthere is the problem the rats nest for wiring... NO ****!!!! why u think I want to eliminate all that JUST TO GET FIRE.... believe it or not nephew had it much much worse... some of his handy work is still visible, like the plastic see thru connectors... the wiring is in most places temporarily hooked up, once it all checks out will make it permanent/..... I DO NOT NEED LECTURED ON THE WIRING... I ONLY ASKED FOR HELP AVOIDING THE WIRING TO JUST GET IT TO GET FIRE SO I KNOW THE MOTOR WILL FIRE UP....IT HAS NO FIRE... i used a 74 dart wiring diagram to "try" and it all run correctly to where it is supposed to go to... but that wiring diagram was not correct for the voltage rugulator and made a pile of wires like 6-8 goto same place..... also for ya folks that didnt get it before... the car does not turn over by the key(it did before removing the battery one night and installing it back the next morning but not now) I can jump across the relay to get it to turn over... ok here goes gonna post pics... very frustrated and not in good mood so PLEASE dont tell me the very obvious about the wiring... like I said, just want it to fire up WITHOUT the wiring AND GO FROM THAT POINT FORWARD

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In the first picture isn’t that a seat belt ignition relay? You said it’s a 74 Dart and won’t crank, could that be the problem?
 
mopardude62 said:
In the first picture isn’t that a seat belt ignition relay? You said it’s a 74 Dart and won’t crank, could that be the problem?
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YES IT IS.... it is not hooked up on the inside... and it turned over by the key(many many times) before removing battery, now it don't... so didn't think that was a problem, but really dont know
 
AnswerBook said:
YES IT IS.... it is not hooked up on the inside... and it turned over by the key(many many times) before removing battery, now it don't... so didn't think that was a problem, but really dont know
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even when it did turn over by the key i did not have fire, removed and reinstalled battery and now the key dont work yet jumping across the relay it turns over but yet still no fire
 
when I turn the key on... the voltage indicator on the dash - goes down... when i turn it to the start position it goes back up a little bit but kinda bounces... not sure if that helps
 
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