What is this strap/bar on Aussie K-member?

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ProjectBazza

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One day of PTO + one all-nighter + both weekend days, and.....

Working on Bazza's '71 VG Valiant (RH drive, Aussie car), and because I busted my *** all weekend, I'm almost to the point now where the car is in the same condition as when I picked it up- i.e., in about 100 pieces. A good analogy would be that I'm trying to assemble a very small jigsaw puzzle....but without the picture.

Having said that, can someone please tell me, what is the bar/strap?
IMG_4717.JPG


For reference, this is the LH side of the car, and the lower end of the this bar/strap is bolted to the k-member (I never unbolted it). I assume this doesn't bend over somehow and get bolted to the engine as, 1) the hole doesn't line-up with anything, and 2) it would render the engine mount almost moot.

Is this some sort of grounding point for the battery/ignition? The battery box is "right there", and this is all I can think of....

I'm just hoping it isn't an Aussie-only thing, as Bazza has no pictures of it.

Thanks, everyone.

Tired as hell,
Jim
 
How and where do they mount the alternator on that car? Same as LHD? This is a manual steering car with the box on the frame rail right?
 
IIRC

Right hand drive cars Mount the gear box to the right inner fender rather than the k frame.
 
I don't have a really good picture of it here at work, but the alternator mounts on the RH side of the motor, right above the fuel pump. It's hard to see here, but the alternator is the grey thing that is "kinda-sorta" visible to the left of the radiator (as you're looking at it). Or, follow the belts from the A/C compressor down and to the left....

P6030311.JPG


And, yes. This is a manual steer car, with the box mounted to the frame rail.

I just remembered I have this; a (cropped) picture of the engine as it was going in this weekend. Alternator isn't installed, but the mounts are there.

IMG_4713 crop.JPG
 
So, the A/C is double belted and runs the alternator, and the water pump is single belt and uses that huge idler? Maybe a brace for that bracket? Homemade torque strap?
 
So, the A/C is double belted and runs the alternator, and the water pump is single belt and uses that huge idler?

Correct, except that "huge idler" is simply a placeholder for a P/S pump, as (I assume) the Aussies wanted to simplify parts content and use one belt/part number for both P/S and non-P/S cars.
 
So, on P/S cars they ran hoses from the left front all the way over to the right rear?
 
Crazy as it sounds, I think so, yeah! I have Bazza's Manual for the car, and I seem to recall seeing a P/S hose diagram in there somewhere showing exactly that.

But my memory ain't what it used to be, and I'm still a little "off" from lack of sleep, so I'll have another look at it this evening.
 
I'll look to see if my Aussie Charger has the same bracket. Even though it was a hemi-6 originally it has a 340 in now.
 
That's odd. I'm looking through some pics that Bazza shot while disassembling the car, and I found this, the only pic that shows this bar (sorta):

$RUZCNTY.jpg


In the extreme lower RH corner you can see it, but here it looks like it's bent downward, toward the frame rail.

I was thinking of taking the night off and getting to bed early, but now I feel the need to check this out.

(Damn OCD!)
 
Aaaaand....nothing.

And nothing on this in the Manual, either.

As "cudamark" pointed out, it's almost like this was intended to be used as a torque strap, since the length and bolt hole seem to be about right (connect it to a motor mount bolt). But it's 10 or 12 gauge metal, and I can't see Chrysler putting a solid connection across the motor mount.

But would they? Did they ever do such a thing here in the States?
 
How about a point to hold down the power steering hoses in place since the go from engine left side to inner fender drivers side????

Doesn't need to be super stout just strong enough to keep the hoses out of the way
 
If anyone is gonna know Jeff AKA Oz Hemi would be the guy, might give him a call... Or shoot him a text with a picture of the bracket...
 
If anyone is gonna know Jeff AKA Oz Hemi would be the guy, might give him a call... Or shoot him a text with a picture of the bracket...
That's a heck of an idea! I kinda feel a little foolish I didn't think of that myself, so....Thanks!

By the way, the LCA's were "clocked" dang near perfectly when I put the torsion bars back-in. Not sure if they're always that easy to do, but things went together very smoothly, so again: Thank you!
 
So, on P/S cars they ran hoses from the left front all the way over to the right rear?
Yup! I found the diagram in the Manual again earlier this evening, and sure enough, that's what they did!

How about a point to hold down the power steering hoses in place since the go from engine left side to inner fender drivers side????
That's as good a guess as any, and there may be some truth to it. Not too long ago "Dave999" (sp?) in the UK (an Aussie ex-pat, IIRC) said this car should have P/S, based on the "700 Regal" trim level, but the option codes doesn't show this. However, Bazza told me (via text msg) that one of the codes has too many digits, which he believes signifies a "P/S Delete" car, so perhaps there was a mix-up on the assembly line that day....
 
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I think it Bolts to the back of the frame for the power steeing pump or indeed to the back of the case of the pump

which was the round style crap one

basicaly the pump mounted up on a triangulated frame on that side of the engine with a big bolt running front to rear and the end of that bolt went through the end of that strap
to provide a support or strut-rod type, tension reaction, so that the belt tension didn't pull the pump out of alignment

it will be an aussie factory addition to standard spec to stop your average aussie country mechanic tensioning the belt to the point where the pump pulley was no longer parallel to its crank pulley. i.e twising the mounting scaffolding for the pump beyond recognition

everything needed to be robust and easy to fix by a man who's toolbox consisted of stilsons mole grips A very big hammer and a massive screw driver used mainly used for removing the lid from tins of paint.

Austrlian cars often had extra bits added on the production line to guard againts impact of harsh conditions or blokes with big hammers who lacked the average guys mechanical sympathy. Anything to avoid the warranty claim

Dave

PS English GB not Aussie. Although i did live there for a bit....

2000+ Aussie valiants sold in the UK i didnt realise so wasn't as unique as i thought i would be when i came back with mine
 
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I think it Bolts to the back of the frame for the power steeing pump or indeed to the back of the case of the pump

which was the round style crap one

basicaly the pump mounted up on a triangulated frame on that side of the engine with a big bolt running front to rear and the end of that bolt went through the end of that strap
to provide a support or strut-rod type, tension reaction, so that the belt tension didn't pull the pump out of alignment

it will be an aussie factory addition to standard spec to stop your average aussie country mechanic tensioning the belt to the point where the pump pulley was no longer parallel to its crank pulley. i.e twising the mounting scaffolding for the pump beyond recognition

everything needed to be robust and easy to fix by a man who's toolbox consisted of stilsons mole grips A very big hammer and a massive screw driver used mainly used for removing the lid from tins of paint.

Austrlian cars often had extra bits added on the production line to guard againts impact of harsh conditions or blokes with big hammers who lacked the average guys mechanical sympathy. Anything to avoid the warranty claim

Dave
If you’re going to give us Aussies a misguided serve, can you please at least spell “Australian“ correctly!
 
yeah no probs Australia...i can do it when i type slow

but come on it was a gentle prod in jest...

you know, just like i do, that for every brillant engineer and every fantastic car guy in Australia
there is a bloke who lowers his holden by totally removing the rear coil springs....

and its the same the world over

1) the aussie cars had torque boxes that only hemi and cabrolets had in the US
2) the upper A arm mounts and the idler mount has additional strengthening ( from 71 a wheel stud through a plate on the top of the inner wing right through the top of the upper A arm mounting structure and from 1976 triangles of steel welded in to various places as gussets and stengtheing
3) austrlians didn't buy UK made cars anymore once they had their own Ford Holden and Chrylsers becasue lest face it the UK cars just broke
4) " bloody landrovers just break axles all the time and once i put some nice strong ones it it bust the transfer box...." i'm gonna get a landcruiser or hilux

i.e harsh conditions

When it comes to shady tree mechanics i owned 3 vehicles in Australia

i was there for 3 years

the valiant had mis matched calipers
the track rod ends were bolted on with plain nuts and no split pins
there was no oil in the 4 speed
a ball of solder the size of my fist in the radiator
and the dash brake light was on, indciating the rear brakes were isolted off but the light fitting had had its bulb removed

this on a car that was "restored"

VW rabbit/golf

failed its roadworthy due to a rust bubble in the screen pillar
it didnt fail on torn trans mounting and engine mounts, that fact that the air cleaner was punching up the hood when you lift off the gas, or the fact that the wheel bearings were flated

Holden

air con system charged with propane rather than aircon gas....

so i spoke as i found....

your experience may be different

:)

Dave
 
yeah no probs Australia...i can do it when i type slow

but come on it was a gentle prod in jest...

you know, just like i do, that for every brillant engineer and every fantastic car guy in Australia
there is a bloke who lowers his holden by totally removing the rear coil springs....

and its the same the world over

1) the aussie cars had torque boxes that only hemi and cabrolets had in the US
2) the upper A arm mounts and the idler mount has additional strengthening ( from 71 a wheel stud through a plate on the top of the inner wing right through the top of the upper A arm mounting structure and from 1976 triangles of steel welded in to various places as gussets and stengtheing
3) austrlians didn't buy UK made cars anymore once they had their own Ford Holden and Chrylsers becasue lest face it the UK cars just broke
4) " bloody landrovers just break axles all the time and once i put some nice strong ones it it bust the transfer box...." i'm gonna get a landcruiser or hilux

i.e harsh conditions

When it comes to shady tree mechanics i owned 3 vehicles in Australia

i was there for 3 years

the valiant had mis matched calipers
the track rod ends were bolted on with plain nuts and no split pins
there was no oil in the 4 speed
a ball of solder the size of my fist in the radiator
and the dash brake light was on, indciating the rear brakes were isolted off but the light fitting had had its bulb removed

this on a car that was "restored"

VW rabbit/golf

failed its roadworthy due to a rust bubble in the screen pillar
it didnt fail on torn trans mounting and engine mounts, that fact that the air cleaner was punching up the hood when you lift off the gas, or the fact that the wheel bearings were flated

Holden

air con system charged with propane rather than aircon gas....

so i spoke as i found....

your experience may be different

:)

Dave
Yes, all good and no real offence taken, oh and by the way you‘re still spelling “Australians“ incorrectly!
:lol:
 
I think it Bolts to the back of the frame for the power steeing pump or indeed to the back of the case of the pump

I don't know if it would have reached, but since the idler is there, I can "guesstimate" the depth of the PS pump and have a look at it this evening and report back.

Thanks, Dave!
 
So my Charger has a small tab on the K frame that your bracket would bolt to. However, what is bolted there is an electrical connection that had one side cut off and the other was attached to the upper bolt for the motor mount. The cut wire looks a bit small to be from the battery unless it was a secondary grounding spot??? Also, wire was too long to be considered as a torque strap. My negative cable from the battery just attaches to the front of the block/head as most American 340s. I can try to take picture tonight if you need. I agree with your thought that it is not designed to be for a torque strap. My Charger is a 73 VJ with a VH grille that was cloned to look like an E38. Orange/Black with the 340+6/4 speed - nice fun combo.
 
So my Charger has a small tab on the K frame that your bracket would bolt to. However, what is bolted there is an electrical connection that had one side cut off and the other was attached to the upper bolt for the motor mount. The cut wire looks a bit small to be from the battery unless it was a secondary grounding spot??
Thanks, Jim! No need for a picture, I understood completely.
 
If anyone is gonna know Jeff AKA Oz Hemi would be the guy, might give him a call... Or shoot him a text with a picture of the bracket...

Well, I just "Stumped the Band", in Johnny Carson-speak, as Jeff doesn't know what it is, either! (Dammit!)

But he's going to send the pictures to his Aussie friends/connections for me, so we'll see.
 
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