what kind of oil for new rebuild

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OK gentleman lets talk real life. I've been running Mobil 1 5W-30 and 10W30 in my family vehicles since 1980 with no problems and will continue to use the oil. I was told back in 1995, in no uncertain terms, by the GM service manager not to use synthetic oil in my 5.7 liter 1/2 ton truck until I had 10K miles on the truck. GM's reason was that the synthetic oil "sometimes" hinders the piston rings from seating because it's to slippery. Yes Ace I used the word slippery. That precaution is no longer used by GM and as a matter of fact quite a few vehicles are coming out of the factory with synthetic oil already in them like my new Honda Accord.

Terry
 
I do not use synthetics either during break-in. I switch after the motors has some miles on them first. I may be all wrong about it but... I am comfortable with doing this way so this is how I will continue to do it and that is the bottom line. You have to feel comfortable with what you do with your car.

Viper's come from the factory with Mobil 1, are they pre-broken in with petro oil then switched or has Mopar found that it doesn't matter?


Chuck
 
340mopar said:
I do not use synthetics either during break-in. I switch after the motors has some miles on them first. I may be all wrong about it but... I am comfortable with doing this way so this is how I will continue to do it and that is the bottom line. You have to feel comfortable with what you do with your car.

Viper's come from the factory with Mobil 1, are they pre-broken in with petro oil then switched or has Mopar found that it doesn't matter?


Chuck
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You got er chuck

Don't know about Viper's but I do know that some of the turbo charged rice rockets use synthetic from the factory more so for the high load and heat that synthetics stand up to better than conventional oils.

Terry
 
No disrespect inteneded to anyone, but you have to admit there are alot of myths and misinformation floating around WRT this stuff. Motor oil seems to have it's fair share. I don't know if anyone saw this thread from my post yesterday, but if you really want to begin to understand what's going on with oil these days, have a look:

http://www.chevron.com/products/pro...s/docs/ebot.pdf

I agree with using conventional for break in on these type V8s, and older engines. But only because it is cheaper and you are draining it after 500 or 1000 miles anyway. Newer designs are built to closer tolerances with different metallurgy, roller valvetrains, etc. etc. It really depends on exctly what we are talking about. Few blanket statements I have ever heard turned out to be universally true.

As was said before, cam break in is another issue entirely. I'm not claimimg to know much about engine break in techniques, but I do know some of the information bandied about concerning the synthetic myths is just wrong.

As always, YMMV.
 
Can you count the number of misspelled words in that post? :toothy7:

I'm just a fast 4-finger typist and sometimes don't bother to go back and correct it!
 
Ace said:
Can you count the number of misspelled words in that post? :toothy7:

I'm just a fast 4-finger typist and sometimes don't bother to go back and correct it!
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I only count 3 Ace so you ain't doing so bad.

Terry
 
Ace, you have no need to explain if something is mis-typed, spelled or other wise, doesn't bother me in the least.

How come people from Texas speak with an accent but don't type with one? I don't get it.


Chuck
 
ted_sweet said:
YOU bash synethics but use it in your race motor? makes no sense
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Ah Grasshopper. It is a race only engine. Not a milage driven engine. I guess people did not read the part I did not want to start a flame war.

340 MOPAR
As far as moly on the install. After break in I DRAIN THE ENGINE OIL OUT. Nuff said there.

As far as the Zince being removed. This is educational for me. I did not know that.
 
I always used conventional "race" oil for break-in because it had the most zinc. Diesel oils also had a lot but those are being reduced too. SM rated oils, the latest, including diesel formulations, have the least. I have a couple cases of the older conventional diesel oils but may add break-in additives even to those in the future. One would have to do some serious research to find specifically what the latest oils have, or don't have, in them.

After break in, Amsoil synthetics are all I use because I've seen the benefits in my race car and tow truck. No additives needed.

Anybody see/post this article? Lots of good, educational info:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/index.html
 
Now this getting interesting!
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I named no names and did not point any fingers, why do you have such a persecution complex, ACE? Anyone who makes an assumption like that is self absorbed and indeed on the verge of delusional, IMHO. Seek therapy.

As far as spelling, yes it does reflect intelligence, along with proper english (in the US and other english speaking nations). You may consider yourself intelligent, but if you cannot communicate your thoughts and ideas accurately, info can become lost in the attempted translation.

In regards to the subject at hand, oil, it depends on the application as to what you should use. I use regular Mobil oil for break in with additive (first 500 to 1000 miles) then as long as there are no leaks or obvious problems I go to synthetic Mobil 1 and run it 5k on a change.

On my wifes Grand Caravan with the brand new chrysler crate 3.8 I changed it after it went 500 miles. Don't know what they had in it for break in oil but I know that it was a warranty replacement and it is warrantied for another 3 years 36 thousand, so I do believe they put whatever they feel is best into their crate engines for break in or they would go broke replacing them due to improper break in. It currently has Mobil One Full Synthetic 5w-30. Runs like a swiss watch with 2000 miles on the new engine. Dosn't leak or use a drop of oil.
 
Stick with Valvoline Racing Oil...It is the best on the market....These guys losing lobes on the camshaft, How much open spring pressure was they running...Now, If you run an ungodly amount of open pressure what oil out there is going to fix loosing lobes on cams...NONE...Lee
 
Just use Valvoline racing oil for break in and for driving...It is Proven...Best oil on the market...Lee
 
340mopar said:
Viper's come from the factory with Mobil 1, are they pre-broken in with petro oil then switched or has Mopar found that it doesn't matter?


Chuck
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As do the SRT LX cars (Charger, Magnum, 300)
 
I had to add something......DTK, if you are running a chevy engine in your omni race car, what good is this site for info on mopar a bodies to you?
 
66dartman said:
I had to add something......DTK, if you are running a chevy engine in your omni race car, what good is this site for info on mopar a bodies to you?
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Well brainiac. The car has two motors. One small block and one 440 MOPAR BIG BLOCK. However if in your infinite wisdom you happen to stumble upon the welcome wagon Post you will see I have a 68 Barracuda I am restoring. Is this A body enough for you to stop being the A BODY POLICE ? So next time you feel the urge to ADD SOMETHING. Please do your research first. Is ok if I still post on this site? Or do I have to own more than one A-body to keep you happy?
440Motor.jpg
 
Nice looking lung DTK, what all have you done to it and what is that large stainless braided line going to the front of the head for, extra cooling perhaps for between runs?

Terry
 
DTK, what is that thing on the balancer that looks like a flex plate? Are those magnets?


Chuck
 
demon seed said:
Nice looking lung DTK, what all have you done to it and what is that large stainless braided line going to the front of the head for, extra cooling perhaps for between runs?

Terry
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Thanks Terry. The lines are on both sides and is for better cooling as the block is half filled with a concrete type of mix . This strengthens the cylinders and helps reduce harmonic resonance. You will note that the line goes into a raised T-stat housing, this is a system that helps auto bleed any air in the cooling system. 440's are famous for steam pockets in the heads. The engine, nothing radical, Roller rockers mild port job 12:1 pistons. .640 lift roller cam. That engine ran 9.70's
 
340mopar said:
DTK, what is that thing on the balancer that looks like a flex plate? Are those magnets?


Chuck
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You right about the magents. This is a crank trigger ignition system. Note that there are 4 magnets. Half of 8. This sends a pulse signal the the MSD unit which in turn fires the coil. You can see the pickup to the right. See that big blue nut? That how you set the air gap.
 
That's what I was thinking, some of the old Mallory dual points had a four lobe cam for the same reason.

Chuck
 
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