what oil to use

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68valiant400 said:
thanks to everyone for responding i learned alot from this thread, i know someone probably already has talked about this on here before but thanks anyways
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Hey, I even learned a few things 68valiant, what's your name by the way. You know what they say about experts, a person who thinks he's an expert has stopped learning, and if you've stopped learning, I say go find another job.

Terry
 
mullinax95 said:
Yeah I checked into that myself and buying it plus shipping would have cost me almost $20. I just went with Valvoline Racing oil and hoping for the best.
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If you are using VR-1 you have no worries. It is good stuff.
 
demon seed said:
Thanks Ron, I decided to do the same so I got my brother bringing me back a case of 10w-30 VR1 from Arizona next week and I'll change the oil for the winter. From Arizona you ask, you can't get the VR1 in 10w-30 up here in Canada only the 20w-50 at NAPA stores.
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A good choice. VR-1 is good stuff. Do you use 10W-30 all year? I have always stuck with 20W-50.
 
2shelbys said:
A good choice. VR-1 is good stuff. Do you use 10W-30 all year? I have always stuck with 20W-50.
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Yea I'm running 80 psi cold oil pressure, 60 psi hot with 10-30, and some mornings are pretty cool to be running 20w-50 up here. Car goes into storage in the winter but gets run whenever it warms up.
 
demon seed said:
Hey, I even learned a few things 68valiant, what's your name by the way. You know what they say about experts, a person who thinks he's an expert has stopped learning, and if you've stopped learning, I say go find another job.

Terry
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Hey Terry I agree,I was talking to the only guy I'll trust to work on my mopar the other day, he's an older man in his 50's has been working on these cars for his whole life and knows pretty much everything there is to know about mopar car's and performance tuning. the way technology has improved muscle cars now he said he has had to learn to use a computer and the internet just to try and keep up with how fast things can change, and how even he is still learning and getting better.

Randy
 
demon seed said:
Yea I'm running 80 psi cold oil pressure, 60 psi hot with 10-30, and some mornings are pretty cool to be running 20w-50 up here. Car goes into storage in the winter but gets run whenever it warms up.
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Oh yes, British Columbia. It is a little colder up there than it is here in Maryland. My car only holds about 10 psi more than yours hot and cold.
 
I had started the exact same thread here - http://www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97969 - on Allpar.

One suggestion came out pretty strong; and that's to use a can of STP with regular oil.

What's the consensus here about that?

In my own lookup - also on the above thread - I noticed that Amsoil AMO sounded like a good choice as well. But if Valv VR1 is cheaper and just as good then I'm heading out soon to get some of that if I can locate it (not too may NAPAs on LI, NY.
 
It seems that no matter what auto/motorcycle/truck website you visit the oil topic comes up. The biggest thing of all is, no matter what oil you use, change it often with a good quality filter (both oil AND air). Everything enters the engine through the carburetors so good air filtration is very important. If you own a car that has a cast iron flat tappet camshaft (which most of us do) and not a roller cam (which are generally made from billet steel) then due to the porosity and softness of cast iron it is important to use an oil with at least a .13% zinc content to prevent the lifters from scuffing the cam surfaces. On metal to metal surfaces like a cam and tappet rubbing together the zinc molecules help to create a smooth rolling surface,filling porous areas of the cam lobes. Should the oil breakdown or become starved the zinc becomes the only line of wear defense. Other things like lifters not spinning can also cause a cam lobe to wear. From what I`ve found the Valvoline VR-1 has the highest zinc content of .20%, Kendall GT-1 is at .16% ,Mystic JT8, Shell Truck Guard, and Spectro Golden 4, are at .15%. Shell Rotella w/XLA is at .13%. Many companies are very covert when it comes to divulging their numbers ,but if the product has a heavy metal or other potentially hazardous ingredient in it that could harm people or the enviroment, then legally the public has to be informed (somewhere) what`s in that product. Groups like the EPA and/or FTC could probably provide the 411 on the unknown oil numbers. That`s my last whack at the dead horse.
 
And yet another monkey wrench thrown into the mix


PS: I was referring to post #60
 
15w 40 oil ??what kind of oil pressure do you get with that ?? i use sae 30 ,,and at cold idel its around 70 psi,,,30 when warmed up,but growing concerns of zinc im alos reading every thing i can to see what oil ill use next,,in my hot rods and ,my cummings dodge pick up
 
dartley said:
I had started the exact same thread here - http://www.allpar.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97969 - on Allpar.

One suggestion came out pretty strong; and that's to use a can of STP with regular oil.

What's the consensus here about that?

In my own lookup - also on the above thread - I noticed that Amsoil AMO sounded like a good choice as well. But if Valv VR1 is cheaper and just as good then I'm heading out soon to get some of that if I can locate it (not too may NAPAs on LI, NY.
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Try as I may , I can`t find the zinc content for STP, seems like trying to find the formula for Coca~Cola might be easier! I`ve heard that too about STP, just can`t verify it. The down side I`ve heard from additives is that many oils are blended synergistically, so if you go adding something to it ,you`ll upset the balance and inherent quality of the oil.
 
Try Brad Penn 10w30

fstfish66 said:
15w 40 oil ??what kind of oil pressure do you get with that ?? i use sae 30 ,,and at cold idel its around 70 psi,,,30 when warmed up,but growing concerns of zinc im alos reading every thing i can to see what oil ill use next,,in my hot rods and ,my cummings dodge pick up
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Longgone said:
Try as I may , I can`t find the zinc content for STP, seems like trying to find the formula for Coca~Cola might be easier! I`ve heard that too about STP, just can`t verify it. The down side I`ve heard from additives is that many oils are blended synergistically, so if you go adding something to it ,you`ll upset the balance and inherent quality of the oil.
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I tried to find out the zinc content myself for STP and could not find anything so I'm going to use it.
 
I spoke with a friend of mine that is involved with NASCAR. I had him ask around to get the scoop on this zinc / oil subject.

What I got back were a whole bunch of explainations from the likes of Petty Enterprises, Jack Roush, Hendrick Motor Sports and MOPAR engine guru Joey Arrington.

In a nut shell, what they all said was this... Zinc is in the oil formula as a wear prohibitor, but the word prohibitor should be used in the sense that it slows down wear progression over time. The key here is the term "over time".

They all agree that if you change your oil religiously (every 2-3K miles in a street car), that the zinc issue is NOT AN ISSUE.

They also went on to state that zinc is helpful in engines that are run in the 7000+ RPM range because of the heat generated, and the acceleration of the oil breaking down because of it.

For high RPM applications (all out race cars and motorcycles) zinc content is a viable concern... for the rest of us, it should not be a huge concern!

Also... if you are wary of the zinc issue, you can convert over to a synthetic oil. Synthetic oils use different chemical compounds that resist wear. A true synthetic oil does not contain zinc at all.

Just my $0.02 worth of input... but it makes sense to me.
 
If you are lucky enough to know a military member in the Army tank maintenance section or Air Force/Navy/Marine aircraft maintenance ask them if they can get their NDI/NDT lab to burn a sample for you and you will get a computer breakdown of all metal elements in ppm.
 
I use Valvoline "not street legal" oil, might be over kill but better to be safe than sorry.

My motor been rebuilt 6 years old and like 30,000 miles on it. When a swap heads last month I looked at the cam-did not remove it,just looking at it, seemed it look fine. All lobes seem to look the same.

Amazon sells it but they get sold out now and then.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?tag=fabo03-20
 
I can get Valvaline VR1 at the new local Advance Auto Parts, but I can't run 20W50, or straight 30 here in the winter. I'm going to do more checking into the AMSIOL products.
 
dartley said:
I can get Valvaline VR1 at the new local Advance Auto Parts, but I can't run 20W50, or straight 30 here in the winter. I'm going to do more checking into the AMSIOL products.
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Valvoline VR1 also comes in 10w30, I know I just got a case of it from NAPA.

Terry
 
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