What rpm stall converter should use?

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66fyssh said:
Very nice! I bet you miss it.

My first car was 1972 Duster. Bought it at the original Manheim Auto Auction in Manheim, PA. 318 column shift, slots all around with L60's on back. Had a lot of fun in that car!
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You know I do. I had L 60’s on that car too, I bought it from an old lady when I was working at Felix Chevrolet, she was going to trade it in. It was like brand new she hardly drove it.
 
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Oldmanmopar said:
Factory 340 cars came with 3500 stall. The would brake stall a 2800-3200 depending on the torque of the motor. Same converter in a Big block car will stall at 3000-3500. I can remember installing a 727 out of a truck with 2200-2400 low stall converter. Turned the car into a real pig
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C'mon...aren't you going to post that video of your orange Duster with the 8" conv doing the big burnout on the street??? I thought that is your go-to video for these discussions! IIRC, you said something like "once you've had one (8" conv), you won't go back!"
So mine has an 8" ATI that flash stalls right at 5000. Lots of fun on the street and works at the track. I've said before...if I work at it on the street, I can get it up to about 190F. Then I flip the fan on and it brings the temp back down. That was in 90+ summer heat. And Oldmanmopar was right!!!
 
Demonx2 said:
C'mon...aren't you going to post that video of your orange Duster with the 8" conv doing the big burnout on the street??? I thought that is your go-to video for these discussions! IIRC, you said something like "once you've had one (8" conv), you won't go back!"
So mine has an 8" ATI that flash stalls right at 5000. Lots of fun on the street and works at the track. I've said before...if I work at it on the street, I can get it up to about 190F. Then I flip the fan on and it brings the temp back down. That was in 90+ summer heat. And Oldmanmopar was right!!!
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Yup. I always love seein that video. The old dude knows how to build one for sure.
 
Demonx2 said:
C'mon...aren't you going to post that video of your orange Duster with the 8" conv doing the big burnout on the street??? I thought that is your go-to video for these discussions! IIRC, you said something like "once you've had one (8" conv), you won't go back!"
So mine has an 8" ATI that flash stalls right at 5000. Lots of fun on the street and works at the track. I've said before...if I work at it on the street, I can get it up to about 190F. Then I flip the fan on and it brings the temp back down. That was in 90+ summer heat. And Oldmanmopar was right!!!
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How does that work on the freeway?
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's just not like that anymore.....that is.....as long as you spend the money for a GOOD converter. If I had a stock stroke 360, 3500 would be my minimum flash for a hot street car. If I was thinking of throwing some strip in too, I would jump that to 3800-4200. There are some off the shelf converters that will work, but you need to talk to a good converter company and find out. They need to know it's going to be street driven so they'll know to make it tight enough so it will not slip and produce a lot of excess heat.
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Thank you for the information, that will help me make the right choice.
 
PG Duster said:
I’m in a bad place without knowing the camshaft specs or the cylinder head valve size? The engine was built by the person I bought the car from.
What makes 904 a better transmission than a 727?
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See if you can’t get in touch with the last owner of the car for the cam specs. This would be the #1 important item to know. Valve size is not a big deal deal. The 904 is better because it is lighter in overall weight and requires less power to make it work. The difference is a tenth or better in a race car. Swapping the 904 to the 727 will require your driveshaft to be shortened & use a different yoke.
PG Duster said:
I bought the car in February of this year, the engine was already rebuilt, the person said it’s a mild cam, which I can hear, and after market steel cylinder heads. The person was supposed to send me the specs, But you know how that goes I don’t know what the numbers are, he never sent them.
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Try and get a hold of him again. Be a pest!
Until he says Uncle.
Or swap in your own cam ;)
 
rumblefish360 said:
See if you can’t get in touch with the last owner of the car for the cam specs. This would be the #1 important item to know. Valve size is not a big deal deal. The 904 is better because it is lighter in overall weight and requires less power to make it work. The difference is a tenth or better in a race car. Swapping the 904 to the 727 will require your driveshaft to be shortened & use a different yoke.

Try and get a hold of him again. Be a pest!
Until he says Uncle.
Or swap in your own cam ;)
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The 727 is being built, also a drive shaft is being built for it.
I really have made a pest out of myself to get that information, he will not return my calls or text. I guess I won’t know until I pull the camshaft myself and put in the one I want. So I will have to pick a torque converter with a future cam in mind.
 
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Maybe he is just a flipper and has no idea about anything. Just talked a good game and u fell for it. R u gonna check the cam b4 u buy a converter? Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
Maybe he is just a flipper and has no idea about anything. Just talked a good game and u fell for it. R u gonna check the cam b4 u buy a converter? Kim
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No, the trans is going to be replaced next week. I Saw on google a 3 year old picture of his wife at the drag strip with the car, it was his wife’s car, he had a C stock road Runner and had 6 Wally’s in the class. He told me he built the Duster for his wife to bracket race.
 
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PG Duster said:
How does that work on the freeway?
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The car has a 4.56 axle so that limits any freeway use. But on semi rural roads at 45-50 mph, no issues as the cooler works just fine (mine bypasses the rad and goes to its own cooler). Driving away from a stoplight in traffic, you'd never know it's a slippery conv. But if you lean on it, hang on!!
 
Has Anybody used or knows about Dice Torque Converters in Southern California?
 
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