What shocks to run on the Demon

-
Nope, Just poly bushings. Dont think Ill ever mini tub it. I know the tires I have on it now will fit just fine if I cut my 60 now to fit the car. The 60 is out of a dodge van. Has a sure grip wth 4:11 and is a HD case setup with thick tubes.
 
The Calvert adjustable rear shocks work pretty well on my car, especially when the track prep isn't up to snuff. I have their fronts also, but I am thinking of going back to stock replacement as they rise too quickly.

Stick and radial is a tough nut to crack. There's a LOT of 60' in getting the right clutch. The hard hitting on/off sintered iron style thing is not what you want. Adjustable is ideal, but $$$. Your trans and rear end will last longer too.

Back when I had the same issues with a Ford, the single diaphragm clutch I had the best luck with was a hybrid disk with a Mcleod pressure plate. An aluminum flywheel was a big help also. It's all in trying to lessen the shock to the tire. I don't know if its an option for you, but with the Ford, I had positive results going from a 3.35 to 2.92 first gear (I don't know what the mopar ratios are, I'm a torqueflite guy). HOWEVER, its Probably cheaper to buy an extra set of rims, some stiff sidewall slicks and a gee-whiz aluminum jack though....

Get a pair of rallies or some cop wheels and throw these on it:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-18115/

Your 60' issues will disappear like a bad memory.

But if you insist on the radial, remember:

Radials like a lot more pressure than bias ply, and they are a lot more sensitive to track prep. I ran my 275/50 at 20 lbs. Even when they are working well, radials are not very consistent.

It should be noted that radials are also much harder on drivetrain parts than bias ply tires. I don't know whether its the stiffer sidewalls or just the greater weight, but you break a lot more stuff with a radial than a slick (when it starts hooking that is). If you are running a radial and feel it start to tire shake, you need to get off the gas with a quickness. Also a good idea to make sure your perches are welded and I'd put some kind of reinforcement on the spring hanger as well.

Have you checked the pinion angle and all that?

Have you got poly bushings in the shackles and such? If you've got rubber it is deflecting massively when you drop the clutch and certainly not helping.

Beautiful car, BTW.

Good Luck!

Steve
 
Steve, The 8.75 housing isnt back braced, but I did wrap the pirches, but Its not gonna live long, so the 60 is just sitting there waiting for me.
 
Cool, I'd also recommend the reinforcement plates for the front spring hanger. I don't know if those really get twisted up or torn out, but they put the plates on the hemi cars for a reason, and they didn't run radials. Cheap insurance/easy install anyway.
 
I'm running the CalTracs on rear with Ranch 9ways. But what really made the difference for me was the front shocks. I started with CE adjustables set to 90/10, but the frontend just didn't seem to react much. One day I was under the car and noticed that the shocks were sitting bottomed out with the cars ride height setting. I am running 28 in MT front runners, so the 6cyl bars are set soft. I had the Caltrac shocks already, just hadn't put them on yet. The body of the Caltrac shock was an inch shorter. I put them on, no more bottoming. Then it was hook city. My 60' went from 1.75 to 1.58. The rear shocks are set to 3.
 
here's a few things to think about. raising the front spring eye. you can weld metal on each side of mounting bracket and drill holes to raise the eye. this will also lower the rear of your hotrod. install an aluminum bushing in it. use clamps on the front half. change the rear shackle to a slider. this will also lower it more. that should get you more weight transfer to help plant those skinny tires.
When your ready, ARE sells front hangers that have 2 hole settings and a reinforcement plate for the nut side of hanger. I run those on the upper hole to lower car some. Got em from Hughes Performance.
 
-
Back
Top