What to do with my 360 magnum??

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Crosswind makes an affordable Air Gap knock off for Magnum engines.
 
If you drill the heads it won't make it where you can't go back. They will work with both style intakes.
 
If you drill the heads it won't make it where you can't go back. They will work with both style intakes.

I was wondering about that. I may use your jig as a model, I kind of want to try it just because. Knowing that, I think I will put the magnum together mostly stock and just see how well it runs, and focus on my stroker. The magnum will then get swapped to my Dart Sport, but with efi, etc. I love it when my piles of parts start making sense!

UOP, to be honest, your combo sounds like it would be really fun and dependable!
 
The cam, carb, and intake were all chosen for a boosted application, none of which are best suited for a n/a 360. My combo isn't one to base yours on. It runs good, but ran better with a larger carb and an Edelbrock Air-Gap intake (about 2 tenths).
 
Uop did intelligent modifications, at the right time. His car is"doing more,with less".
 
Had a few seconds, so I thought with all the progress I have been posting on my 68 Dart build thread, I would update this one since it is going to be the powerplant for the Dart.

First a big thanks to everyone that posted on here, and to UOP for giving me a little direction, especially when it came time to make the jig to redrill the heads. I got both of them redrilled and tapped, they are good to go in that department.

I tore it down to the shortblock, and it seems to be in pretty good shape. No abnormal wear or peices, I didn't check any of the mains yet, but I did check 3 random rods and they look great. I replaced the cam bearings, they weren't worn but the next to last one looked like it had acid dripped on it, or metal termites made paths on it. It wasn't wear, and the cam, etc still looked great. I chased all the threads, degreased, scrubbed, etc. Shore lukes purdy naw.
Here is the parts list:
-360 car pan and timing cover from a 72 360, I am going to make a baffle for the pan
-MP cam (thanks whitepunkonitro!) 218/[email protected], .487/.496 lift (cant remember the rest at the moment), hydraulic roller, appears to be billet with a cast gear.
-SA Gear timing set
-I disassembled the oil pump, deburred, opened up the holes, polished everything, and added a hp mp spring. Picked up a new melling sump, and I had a barely used melling shaft with the pinned gear laying here.
-scrubbed and soaked the pushrods, rockers, anything that was getting reused. Checked it all for abnormal wear, etc.
-I did end up porting the heads. Looked at the magnum head posts on here, any info I could find. I will post some pics, feel free to criticize good or bad!
-I bought some springs from Doug Herbert, Comp 1.43 LS 8mm retainers, and Hughes 8mm locks. I can't go much higher with my lift without losing some of my safety zone before coil bind, the retainers ended up being shorter than I thought. I have a few more ideas tho. Valvetrain=$115!!
-Edelbrock LD340, and a choice between a 750 dp and a Carter 750.
-brand new Hedman headers, a $50 cl find.
-Distributer I have from my Dart with lighter springs, and a new Hi-Rev ecu.

How does the combo sound to you guys?

FWIW, rebuilt 904 with a stock stall, and a 3.73 rear with g60-15 tires.
 
Thanks! Thats what I'm hoping for, I think its mild enough to be fairly reliable, but fun. Heck, I think I can get it into the 13's lol.
 
Tried to get some pics of an intake port, on a phone with no flash and a little led flashlight lol. I still have some smoothing/blending to do, this is with a couple carbide bits and my die grinder.
 

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Exhaust, same deal.
 

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Cool, thats what I like to hear. Never really posted any pics of my porting, usually just do it and put it together.
 

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Well, after all the time spent researching springs, shopping for the best deals, etc, I may be selling it to a friend to put in his 1978 4x4. Do you guys think that $1100 is too cheap for a carb to pan, ready to drop in 5.9? I just rebuilt the 750 double pumper, I blasted and detailed the LD340, ported heads, viton seals, mp cam, new valves/retainers/locks, new cam bearings, water pump, etc? The mains and rods all look great, and there was no ridge whatsoever.
 
Tim at bullet did me well on the regrind, it was $250 shipped both ways. You act like this is an alien engine, it's not; it's a tire shredder! I love mine. 1pc seals, lighter rotating assembly, 300k miles without a re-ring. All pretty bad *** things to have IMO.
 
To me, it is an alien engine! lol. I did talk to tim, before I got the MP cam, and he said he could do much with the factory cam because of the way it is set up, especially the lsa. I guess it is new to me, and its so much different in a lot of ways than the LA engines, I keep looking at it different. I really want to see how this is going to run! Similar to my old 360 (1972 stock bottom, mild cleanup on the J-heads, Crane .460/.450, 224/232 hyd, LD340, windage tray, 750 dp, headers, ran 13.50s at 100mph with a 2800 stall and 3.23 one legger, 2.1 60ft lol), I think in reality, even though the cam is smaller, the heads probably flow more and are more efficient, roller cam, etc, it may be quicker! Probably alot more streetable too.

I guess I should mention that I am selling it because I am getting a good deal on some W2s for my stroker :)
 
1100 a fair deal,both parties. I ended up with a Magnum,want to see closure. Neat engines. Shocked you found Econo W2's. I looked two years,for my 408 LA build. Ended up with Eddy's,wasn't happy with OOTB.
 
I like simple/fun. Did the same build ,two years ago. There was a guy on Moparts,renting a jig just for this.I went ,with the Pro Products air gap clone. Plug and play,not as powerful as the Edelbrock. Custom machine shop work ,isn't a simple/fun/budget experience. To do a cam/springs/retainers/intake swap,on my 99 Magnum cost about 650 in hard parts.($300,new cam). My advice? Plan your budget,choose accordingly.


Similar for my magnum;
Hughes single springs, keepers, retainers $165
Crossswind air gap $ 150
cam ground on a new factory core 496/512 276/286 $120

will probably later get a Thumpr or WHiplash
 
Good to see you back! Contacted the link,several times. Long gone.Found a screaming deal,on a Eddy Air Gap. There is a difference, in runner sizing,on stock Magnum heads,would be better off with the Crosswind.
 
Good to see you back! Contacted the link,several times. Long gone.Found a screaming deal,on a Eddy Air Gap. There is a difference, in runner sizing,on stock Magnum heads,would be better off with the Crosswind.

you just justified my purchase of the Crosswind...I had heard that it was specifically designed for the magnum
 
Well, he gave me the money last night for it. He is super excited, and he wants to pay me to put it in! I think it will be a perfect truck engine, I'm sure it will make good power but I also think it will have a nice, flat torque curve. He opted to take my Carter 750 over my 750 double pumper, which I think is a good move also. It is going in a 78 D200 with 35" tires and a 4-spd. I guess it has 4.88 gears, but he wants to swap them out asap.

As for the regrinds, I am confused as to why when I called Bullet, Tim told me that there was no point in regrinding a magnum cam because the lsa is like 117 (he said other reasons too but I forget lol) and he just cant do much with it. I did get a great deal on my MP cam ($150for the cam/lifters, new), but I just dont know why he said it. Unless he was just trying to get me in a new cam.
 
There is a tempered hardening ,on the top of the cam lobes. It only goes so deep,then you hit soft metal.Most cam grinders(good ones),can tweak the lobe centers 2 or 3 degrees. Only so much you can do.
 
Thats pretty much what Tim told me too, makes sense. I was just reading up on cam regrinding, I'm starting to understand it a little more. I am actually going to give him a call tomorrow to see about a cam for my stroker.
 
There is a tempered hardening ,on the top of the cam lobes. It only goes so deep,then you hit soft metal.Most cam grinders(good ones),can tweak the lobe centers 2 or 3 degrees. Only so much you can do.

He might want to call the guys at Oregon. I talked to them about this same thing. They told me that for some reason, the majority or the Chrysler cores they grind seem to be hardened almost all the way to the core. I was surprised by that, but he was adamant about it, saying they had cut a lot of them in half and inspected them.
 
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