What year 360?

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cuda67

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I need a bunch of advise. I want to build a 360 for my 67 Barracuda vert. I will have to buy a 360 and I would like to know what year is best,if any, or does it matter? I would like to end up at 500+/- hp. Do I have to build a stroker or is there another way? I have alot to do besides the motor but I would like to find the best motor to use.
I have never built a performance engine and I haven't a clue as to what I will need to do. I have read discussions about .030-.040 over, cams, heads and so on. But what is the best thing to do?????
 
do you mean what year as in LA-360 (1971-1992)or MAGNUM-360 (1993-current) or MAGNUM CRATE 360?
 
All depends on how you look at it. The newer magnums have a couple of advantages though you might consider best. They are newer so probably less worn. They also use roller cams which is a help in attaining the horsepower level your after cheaper. The only drawbacks I can think of is I've heard some guys having problems with the truck mounting ears on them (they have both car and truck mounts cast onto them) hitting headers so you might have to cut them off. Also you have to run magnum style heads cause they don't have oiling provision for LA style head rocker shafts. There is one possible advantage of an older LA 360. It's possible to get lucky like I did and find a early one that has real thick cylinder walls. I have heard for years that early 360's (before 74) had thicker cylinder walls but that has been debated alot on the board here with alot of guys saying they don't. Well I have a 73 that has super thick cylinder walls. I had it sonic tested and the thinnest major thrust wall was capable of being bored .060 over with no problem and my machinist said it could go .080 over for a lower power application. Only problem is finding one of them. I got lucky. Over boring alot like .060 or .080" isn't necessarily a great power adder but rather the thick cylinder walls are more rigid to hold ring seal better. Especially under high horsepower applications.
 
For 500 (N/A) w/street manners you will need to find a big block.

Stock stroke probably but not if you stroke it. I've seen some pretty docile 500 hp strokers. Also street manners are in the eye of the beholder. I personally don't like a super radical engine in my street rides but know some guys that love it.

BTW Cuda67 if you haven't ever built a high horsepower engine you should probably get some professional help doing it. Preferably a Mopar guy too. 500 hp is alot of power. If you don't do it right you'll be sweeping it up off the road the first time you nail it.
 
I need a bunch of advise. I want to build a 360 for my 67 Barracuda vert. I will have to buy a 360 and I would like to know what year is best,if any, or does it matter? I would like to end up at 500+/- hp. Do I have to build a stroker or is there another way? I have alot to do besides the motor but I would like to find the best motor to use.
I have never built a performance engine and I haven't a clue as to what I will need to do. I have read discussions about .030-.040 over, cams, heads and so on. But what is the best thing to do?????

Hey John I have a nice early model 360 block that is standard bore right now. If you interested. it has been cleaned and has new cam bearings. i was saving it in case i did a 408 stroker. But I really prefer BB. let me know if your interested.
 
I need a bunch of advise. I want to build a 360 for my 67 Barracuda vert. I will have to buy a 360 and I would like to know what year is best,if any, or does it matter? I would like to end up at 500+/- hp. Do I have to build a stroker or is there another way? I have alot to do besides the motor but I would like to find the best motor to use.
I have never built a performance engine and I haven't a clue as to what I will need to do. I have read discussions about .030-.040 over, cams, heads and so on. But what is the best thing to do?????
I had my 340 with P&P Xheads stroked to a 372(3.58)dynoed at 452hp!Had I stroked with a (4.00 crank)I,m not sure what cubes that would give me?I,ve heard about a 340 stroked to a 422 cubes,which I,m guessing would give you up over 500hp?Just a thought and I,m sure someone will chime in about big cubed small blocks!
P.S Love your car!Gonna need a roll bar now!
 
74 was the last year for the thick cylinder walled 360's. My brother has a 74 360 in his Challenger and it has the super thick cylinder walls.

I also have to disagree on 500hp not being achievable on a street 360 without stroking it. My brothers 360 is running around 450hp with a 30 over bore, stock stroke crank, 2.02 fully ported heads, 9.8-1 compression and a fairly high cam. It is very streetable and with a little more work could easily be a 500hp motor and still be street friendly.

I also know a guy at work running a 78 360 bored 60 over, 12:1 compression, ported heads, stock stroke crank with around 450hp and is running 11 sec qtrs in a 73 RR racecar.

My main point is that streetable HP in the 450-500 range is achievable with a stock crank 360. The 12:1 is to high for a street motor but the hp is still achievable for the street.

Joe
 
I just learned that my motor is better than I thought :-D 73 360, I had wondered if there was any benefits to an earlier block.

Chaeck out Hughes Engines if you want a stroker kit, they're a bunch of smart Mopar guys that offer a 408 stroker kit for around $1500 and if you wna get a lil crazy they have a 426 kit for about $2500 for 360's. I think I'm gona try and do the 408 in the next year or two, depends on how school, work, and life goes LOL
 
Thanks for the advise. When I rebuilt the 318 and just added a cam and decked the heads plus valves springs ect. I got to drive it 50 miles before I bent the valves and sucked a valve in #2. I quickly learned what coil bind was and had to start over again. I still don't know much more than back then.
 
74 was the last year for the thick cylinder walled 360's. My brother has a 74 360 in his Challenger and it has the super thick cylinder walls.

I also have to disagree on 500hp not being achievable on a street 360 without stroking it. My brothers 360 is running around 450hp with a 30 over bore, stock stroke crank, 2.02 fully ported heads, 9.8-1 compression and a fairly high cam. It is very streetable and with a little more work could easily be a 500hp motor and still be street friendly.

I also know a guy at work running a 78 360 bored 60 over, 12:1 compression, ported heads, stock stroke crank with around 450hp and is running 11 sec qtrs in a 73 RR racecar.

My main point is that streetable HP in the 450-500 range is achievable with a stock crank 360. The 12:1 is to high for a street motor but the hp is still achievable for the street.

Joe

I have to agree with you about being able to get 500 from a 360, if built right.
I read in Mopar Muscle of a 318 build, without stroking it, that delivered around 400 hp. I have the article with a list of all the parts used and machine work done. It would appear that 500 is doable with the right parts. I know that I will need lots of help and advise and I am hoping that Fogel and moper will chime in. I am not that far from Pat Fogel and I am willing to drive.
 
SG, what year is the 360? Is it a short block long block etc? I am interested in the options if the price is right. What are you looking for?

Tim
 
I have to agree with you about being able to get 500 from a 360, if built right.
I read in Mopar Muscle of a 318 build, without stroking it, that delivered around 400 hp. I have the article with a list of all the parts used and machine work done. It would appear that 500 is doable with the right parts. I know that I will need lots of help and advise and I am hoping that Fogel and moper will chime in. I am not that far from Pat Fogel and I am willing to drive.
I would just hand Fogel the cash,if I was that close to him.LOL!He seems to know his stuff!Between him(PFogel,Moper and waggin)you could come ahead with quite the 360,with limited spending?It would cost you$$but done right!My 2 cents!
 
Hmmm, I like these threads. I'm going to start digging in to my '75 stock 4 barrel Volare/Roadrunner motor. I'm now kinda wishing I would have picked up a pre '75 for the added thickness. But Oh well. I think it will suffice. I'm not going for 500 HP. More like 350-400 HP.
 
I actually have to correct part of my above statements regarding one of the motors I mentioned. I talked to the guy at work with the 78 360 and he said he is running 10:1 compression TRW forged pistons with a 60 overbore and fully ported and decked heads. He is around 450hp with a stock 360 crank.

350-450HP is very achievable using the stock crank with the right combo of parts and of course it has to be built right! 500 HP is also achievable with the stock crank and will still be streetable.
 
Not a big 360 fan here. Low comp. thinwalled. I love my 340 I put in last fall. In my 67 barracuda..
 
Not a big 360 fan here. Low comp. thinwalled. I love my 340 I put in last fall. In my 67 barracuda..

Low compression is super easy to overcome with aftermarket pistons. And the 70's 360's had decent walls. I just had a 73 360 machined and had the walls sonic tested and they were thick enough to bore it .080 over. Sounds like your relying on old information from the 70's.
 
Low compression is super easy to overcome with aftermarket pistons. And the 70's 360's had decent walls. I just had a 73 360 machined and had the walls sonic tested and they were thick enough to bore it .080 over. Sounds like your relying on old information from the 70's.

I agree 71-74 360 blocks have thick enough cylinder walls that they can be bored up to .090 over. Aftermarket pistons with 10:1 comp. so you can still run pump gas, head porting, a good mid range cam, a good intake and carb and you can make very impressive power from a 360.

I also have the original 340 for my 72 RR. I will be running 69 X heads that will be ported, a .030 overbore with 10:1 comp, a MP Purple cam, performer RPM intake with a 670 Holley Street Avenger and headers an I am expecting to be in the 400-425 range.
 
500 horse is not hard to obtain with a 360 not that you would really want to run a stock crank and rods i would suggest a good quality stroker kit and dont skimp on the heads i would reccomnend indy 360-1 oval port kit with all your rocker gear and intake or a set of ported aluminium w2s. every thing roller with a street hp holley
 
Hey John I have a nice early model 360 block that is standard bore right now. If you interested. it has been cleaned and has new cam bearings. i was saving it in case i did a 408 stroker. But I really prefer BB. let me know if your interested.


i am interested in that block if he isnt. how much
 
I have a supercharged 1998 360 Magnum engine that is stock bore and stroke, but has a very mild Hughes hyd. roller cam (214/218-degrees at .050"-lift; .525" total lift with 114 degrees of lobe separation.) It has exceptional street manners (idles fairly smoothly at 475 rpm) and makes 445 Rear Wheel HP and 479 ft. pounds of torque at the rear wheels. (see attached dyno sheet.) That's about 524 flywheel HP if you want to believe that you lose 15-percent in a chassis dyno test. I don't know if that's true, but it sounds reasonable to me.

The heads are almost untouched, with a 3-angle valve job and a minimal amount of bowl porting. No other modifications of any kind.

True compression is a stock, 9:1 (I measured it) and it breathes through a 750 Holley double pumper carb mounted on a Professsional Products Crosswind intake manifold.

The pistons, rods, crank, and rings are all factory assembled OEM parts.

Exhaust exits through a complete TTI header and 2.5" H-pipe exhaust system.

Ignition is by a stock M-P electronc distributor and an MSD BoostMaster module that uses an MSD Blaster coil.

It has a windage tray in the pan.

I use a Snowperformance "Boost Cooler" water/methanol injector instead of an intercooler (aftercooler?). It is set to start spraying at 3 psi of boost.

The supercharger drive pulley setup I am using enables the blower to make 10 pounds of boost, max., which comes in about 3600 rpm. Before that, it's rising from about 5 pounds at 2300 rpm to it's peak at 3600. By 5600, the boost has dropped to about 8 psi.... I think the engine's appetite for air is out-stripping the blower's ability to deliver... but, it could be belt slippage, I am not sure, yet.

The engine is hooked to a 904 T-Flite which has a Trans-Go shift kit installed and a 2500 rpm-stall 318 converter. Rear gears are 3.55 (soon to be 4.10's.) The transmission seems to handle the power with no trouble at all. Amazing little transmissions, these 904's....

Attached to this post will be my dyno sheet and a scan of my recent timeslip from a very slick dragstrip. My best mph in 1,000 feet was 105 (translated to about 116 in the quarter) and my best 100-ft e.t. so far has been 9.74. which is a high 11 in the quarter. New slicks and the 4.10 gear should put that into the middle 11's. Talk's cheap.... we'll see... LOL!

The car is a '72 Valiant 4-door sedan and weighs 3,600 pounds with me in it, ready-to-race.

Anyway, for someone so inclined, I think my car shows how you can have 500+ hp out of a mostly stock 360 Magnum and maintain excellent street manners (the engine makes 12 pounds of vacuum at idle, for the power brakes.)

It's just a different way of approaching the problem.

I bought a 4" crank for this thing, but decided I needed to hook it up first, so I got a pair of Moser axles ($550.00!!!) and will put the new 4.10 gears along with the new 9" slicks and see how it leaves. I should be able to generate some low 1.70 60-foot times, I would hope. That would drop my e.t. into the mid-11's.... and the 4.10 might help a tenth or so....

Sooner or later, this thing is gonna either run low 11's or blow up in my face....

I'd be afraid to bet either way.... LOL!

Anyway, this is an alternative to high compression, long-duration cams, and some good, expensive heads .... all of which are necessary to put a 360 over 500 hp, normally aspirated.

Yes, N20 is a lot cheaper.... but, I only had to buy this thing once...

It's a damned good thing too..... I couldn't do it again! $$$$$$$$$$$$$

Bill

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