What's a good intro welder for subframe connectors?

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robcuda

robcuda

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My first DIY welding job will be sub frame connectors (US Tool) on my 64 Cuda and need to buy a welder. I have a Argon bottle that I can use if you suggest to do so. Want to spend just enough money to do this job and other sheet metal up to maybe 1/4". Should I be looking at stick, wire feed? Harbor Freight any good? Do you have a lower budget welder you are happy with? Thanks a bunch!
 
Millermatic 211 is an awesome welder and will run off 110 or 220. Not the cheapest but the best bang for the buck. Millermatic® 211 MIG Welder
If you only want the cheapest and dont care how long it lasts just get a harbor freight mig.
 
I have a Hobart 180 and a Lincoln 175...both great units.

An argon mix will weld better with a prettier weld bead but straight co2 is good,too.

I don't suggest a flux core welder unless you are an experienced welder. Most amateurs have a tuff time getting a decent weld with them.

As far as HF welders their newer units have a better reputation than their earlier deals.
 
I would not attempt to weld subframe connectors with any 120V welder. If you are trying to save money look around for used. Stay with name brands. A dual voltage 120/240 would be nice but they cost more As mentioned above you can use argon, but I've always used CO2. CO2 lasts a lot longer because it's a liquid and is cheaper to refill I have two Lincolns, a little 120V "weldpack" I bought years ago, and a newer Lincoln 230V 180A I bought new.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Millermatic 211 is an awesome welder and will run off 110 or 220. Not the cheapest but the best bang for the buck. Millermatic® 211 MIG Welder
If you only want the cheapest and dont care how long it lasts just get a harbor freight mig.
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robcuda said:
My first DIY welding job will be sub frame connectors (US Tool) on my 64 Cuda and need to buy a welder. I have a Argon bottle that I can use if you suggest to do so. Want to spend just enough money to do this job and other sheet metal up to maybe 1/4". Should I be looking at stick, wire feed? Harbor Freight any good? Do you have a lower budget welder you are happy with? Thanks a bunch!
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Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions. Plenty of boobtube videos out there but I'd rather get opinions from you guys!
 
I've got a Hobart 140. Good welder. Added a 75/25 bottle after running flux wire through it. My welds are much better with the gas. From my understanding, low end welders have a harder time with thin metal than more expensive as they just don't go low enough. I half farmed out my sheet metal work on the Barracuda (I helped while a friend of mine did the welding).
 
A decent 135/140 amp (120V) MIG welder will weld your subframe connectors in just fine. I used a Lincoln 135 on the connectors in my 66 Dart. The problem is, you'll quickly outgrow the 120V machine. I know I did and upgraded to a 180A unit very quickly. I just wish I had started with the larger machine from the get-go

A few quick (maybe obvious) tips are to get the metal clean, joints tight (I've heard the USCT connectors need a little 'fine tuning'), and make sure you're in a comfortable position. Before you weld on the actual work piece, practice on like materials to get the settings dialed in. When welding thicker material to thinner, focus the arc on the thicker side and 'wash' in to the thinner side to help prevent blow through.

Don't forget that the smaller machines don't have much of a duty cycle, so take frequent breaks.
 
mopowers said:
A decent 135/140 amp (120V) MIG welder will weld your subframe connectors in just fine. I used a Lincoln 135 on the connectors in my 66 Dart. The problem is, you'll quickly outgrow the 120V machine. I know I did and upgraded to a 180A unit very quickly. I just wish I had started with the larger machine from the get-go

A few quick (maybe obvious) tips are to get the metal clean, joints tight (I've heard the USCT connectors need a little 'fine tuning'), and make sure you're in a comfortable position. Before you weld on the actual work piece, practice on like materials to get the settings dialed in. When welding thicker material to thinner, focus the arc on the thicker side and 'wash' in to the thinner side to help prevent blow through.

Don't forget that the smaller machines don't have much of a duty cycle, so take frequent breaks.
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Very helpful information. Did you weld with weight of car on ramps or similar? I’m thinking of buying second set of ramps and put car on all 4 to eliminate concern of door alignment.
 
robcuda said:
Very helpful information. Did you weld with weight of car on ramps or similar? I’m thinking of buying second set of ramps and put car on all 4 to eliminate concern of door alignment.
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That question tends to open a can of worms around here. Everyone seems to have their idea on what's best. When I've installed subframes connectors, I put the jack stands under the front and rear subframes to take out some sag from the 50 yr old body, then put a jack under the k-member and take a little of the sag out of the front.

IMO, the main thing is you want to make sure the doors open and shut easily before you start welding. At the same time, some people weld them in on rotisseries with no problem, so who knows?? There's a lot of ways to skin a cat.
 
Actually the quality of harbor freight stuff if you buy top of the line tools is really good. My earthquake battery impact wrench is awesome and so is my Hercules cordless drill. Matter of fact I bought one of their welders but have yet to use it. Just stay away from the cheapies, Chicago electric and most of all drill master. Disposable tools.
Anyway no matter what brand you buy some of it to all of it is made in China, miller, Lincoln,whatever.
 
I use a 25 year old Lincoln weld pak 100 with a gas bottle attachment kit from summit racing. It welds everything I ask it to weld. Make sure whatever you get has a full variable rheostat for wire speed, so you can "fine tune" how fast or slow the wire feed is. It makes a difference.

Practice on junk metal before you take a torch to the car. Read and practice a lot if your not a welder. It's easier to put in a good weld and be done, than to grind a shitty weld, or have to remove something and start over.

1/4" is really thick **** for a wire welder. Hope your not putting that stuff in your car. 1/8" plate and above you need to V notch the pieces for full penetration with a wire welder.

Welding in subframe connectors? Welding upside down sucks for experienced welders, let alone newbies.

I'm sure others will chime in with more. I wish you the best of luck.
 
Make sure that car is level and square before you weld in those connectors. If it isnt level and is twisted slightly when you weld em in, it will stay that way when your done.
 
I would not recommend straight CO2 for a beginner especially upside down welding to the floor. Get the mix.
 
I bought my Hobart 210mvp a few years ago. The little Lincoln I was using just wasn't going to cut it for major frame work I was doing on my Jeep. It's been very versatile having the option to use 120v for really small gauge sheet metal, but it's mostly used in the 240v setup.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I use a 25 year old Lincoln weld pak 100 with a gas bottle attachment kit from summit racing. It welds everything I ask it to weld. Make sure whatever you get has a full variable rheostat for wire speed, so you can "fine tune" how fast or slow the wire feed is. It makes a difference.

Practice on junk metal before you take a torch to the car. Read and practice a lot if your not a welder. It's easier to put in a good weld and be done, than to grind a shitty weld, or have to remove something and start over.

1/4" is really thick **** for a wire welder. Hope your not putting that stuff in your car. 1/8" plate and above you need to V notch the pieces for full penetration with a wire welder.

Welding in subframe connectors? Welding upside down sucks for experienced welders, let alone newbies.

I'm sure others will chime in with more. I wish you the best of luck.
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Thank you for the input!
 
moparmat2000 said:
Make sure that car is level and square before you weld in those connectors. If it isnt level and is twisted slightly when you weld em in, it will stay that way when your done.
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On 4 ramps with tires evenly filled what are some basic squares I can look for?
 
moparmat2000 said:
I use a 25 year old Lincoln weld pak 100 with a gas bottle attachment kit from summit racing. It welds everything I ask it to weld. Make sure whatever you get has a full variable rheostat for wire speed, so you can "fine tune" how fast or slow the wire feed is. It makes a difference.

Practice on junk metal before you take a torch to the car. Read and practice a lot if your not a welder. It's easier to put in a good weld and be done, than to grind a shitty weld, or have to remove something and start over.

1/4" is really thick **** for a wire welder. Hope your not putting that stuff in your car. 1/8" plate and above you need to V notch the pieces for full penetration with a wire welder.

Welding in subframe connectors? Welding upside down sucks for experienced welders, let alone newbies.

I'm sure others will chime in with more. I wish you the best of luck.
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Thanks for the tips and I think you’re right about thickness. The price range for where I’m at will probably max at 1/8.
 
I have a 10+ year old Hobart 187 which is their first step into 220v machines and couldn't be more happy. Hobart and miller are the same company (along with Smith's gas torches) and they generally don't put their names on junk. The Miller is going to have a few more bells and whistles in each category but will cost a few coins extra. Kind of like a VW vs. Audi. If you live in or near a fair sized city, talk to your local welding supply place (like where you get your gas bottle filled). If they're a service center for any of the major brands you may be able to get a "reconditioned" unit at a steep discount. Imagine a slightly used and repaired ESAB with full warranty for the cost of a Harbor Freight or hardware store Lincoln.
 
C130 Chief said:
I have a 10+ year old Hobart 187 which is their first step into 220v machines and couldn't be more happy. Hobart and miller are the same company (along with Smith's gas torches) and they generally don't put their names on junk. The Miller is going to have a few more bells and whistles in each category but will cost a few coins extra. Kind of like a VW vs. Audi. If you live in or near a fair sized city, talk to your local welding supply place (like where you get your gas bottle filled). If they're a service center for any of the major brands you may be able to get a "reconditioned" unit at a steep discount. Imagine a slightly used and repaired ESAB with full warranty for the cost of a Harbor Freight or hardware store Lincoln.
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Can’t hurt to give it a try!
 
Look at my restoration build thread 67/68/69 cuda dilemma . In this thread i show where to put 4 cheapo spirit levels to make sure the car is square, as well as how to make your own subframe connectors out of 2x3 box steel, and re route the parking brake cable cleanly. It's worth a visit.
 
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robcuda said:
I'm really afraid of the quality of Harbor Freight stuff. Hate to have a expensive paper weight.
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I did mine about 6 years ago with my $89 flux wire Harbor Freight welder... In the height of the time I was drag racing. I made my own out of 4 ft sticks of steel from the steelyard..
Car pulled the front tire off the ground... They're still on there just fine...
I bought the steel at the steelyard, the Harbor Freight welder, the Harbor Freight gloves, and the Harbor Freight automatic helmet for less than a set of store-bought frame connectors that had to be welded anyways...
I built my sled deck for my snowmobiles with that Harbor Freight welder and every other job I've had to do and it still works perfect...
 
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