A couple days ago I noticed a ticking coming from my LA360. It's not an exhaust leak so we can count that out. Only happens when engine is at running temp at about 180 degrees. Not present on cold starts and while warming up. Present while in drive, park and neutral at running temp. Ticking becomes faster in the higher RPM range and downshifts. I'm thinking it may be a rod bearing on it's way out.
What's That Ticking?
- Thread starter Mcfarlrm
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
A video is a giant help.
Other things are more likely, - get an automotive stethoscope,<$20, use it with and without the needle to track down the source.
Needle off, follow the direction of sound to the area, then needle on to touch non-moving parts near suspect sound.
Good luck
Other things are more likely, - get an automotive stethoscope,<$20, use it with and without the needle to track down the source.
Needle off, follow the direction of sound to the area, then needle on to touch non-moving parts near suspect sound.
Good luck
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About 15psi at idle.
Here's another maybe, as it confounded me for quite some time. Same symptoms as yours, the ring gear on my converter was .030+/- out of square. Slightly contacting the back of the block, no witness marks until a bit of rust developed on the converter. I slid the thinnest washer I could find (around .020" IIRC) between the flexplate and each lug, problem solved.
You sure it's not an exhaust leak? Cracked manifolds don't generally leak until they heat up...
I just swapped my flex pate about a month ago so now I am curious. However, it only ticks/knocks when the engine is warmed up so not too sure about that.
Brand new headers but I do have a slight leak where the gasket blows out on me. Been chasing that for about a year so open to some good gasket suggestions. This is a very distinct tick/knock aside from my exhaust leak.
Can you load the video to YouTube, then post the link?
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i only use the cheapy gaskets that come in the set. they always get a light smear of silicon both sides and i've not had any leaks since doing this. a bonus is any excess squeezes onto the bolt threads which seems to stop them backing out.
neil.
REMFLEX!
First link. Cold start where you can hear the exhaust leak but not tick/knock.
Second link. Engine up to temp where you can hear the tick/knock.
Third link. Engine up to temp tick/knock from a distance.
Forth link. Engine up to temp under side of engine where you can hear tick/knock.
Second link. Engine up to temp where you can hear the tick/knock.
Third link. Engine up to temp tick/knock from a distance.
Forth link. Engine up to temp under side of engine where you can hear tick/knock.
Bad bearings do not "tick".
So is that a tick or knock in your opinion?
Sounds like a bottom end knock. Drain the oil into a clean pan and look for metallic glitter.
Usually a rod knock will only knock on fire. That sounds like it's ticking too fast for that on a idle
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I think I'd be pulling the valve covers, but ya know what, cruise out and get the stethoscope, take the needle off, and lay the horn on each valve cover, move it around, I think it will tell all, and if the noise is lower, it'll sure help .
I think it's a rocker, pretty fast as mentioned, jmo
www.harborfreight.com
Great vids .
I think it's a rocker, pretty fast as mentioned, jmo
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Very simple test for rod knock: remove a plug lead. Start engine & listen for knock. Do the other 7 leads one at a time. If the noise goes or changes, that is the faulty cyl. Piston pin noise is usually a 'double tick'.
If the noise is still there after the above test, it is probably valve train. Lobe/lifter wiping or lifter pre-load.
If the noise is still there after the above test, it is probably valve train. Lobe/lifter wiping or lifter pre-load.
Did the tick/knock only happen once the engine was up to temp?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That sure sounds like converter bolts hitting a dust cover to me.
Try pressing on the cover while it’s running and see if the sound changes.
Easy test.
DARTLARRY
Well-Known Member
Converter bolts
Sometimes yes, sometimes from startup. And sometimes applying the throttle pressure lever affected it, strange as that sounds.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That doesn’t sound strange at all.
Just another symptom of this being about the converter.
Either the bolts came loose, or the bolt heads are hitting the dust cover or both.
That’s just what everything is pointing to so far it seems.
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