What's the best suspension for Street Handling?

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jrlegacy23

jrlegacy23

68 Barracuda
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I am building my 72 Dart and am in the process of collecting parts for the suspension. I am looking to get the best handling suspension for the street. Maybe do a little autox if I ever get the chance. I have bought a set of 1.00" torsion bars, Magnumforce upper control arms (built in 3-5* caster), 17" Bullitt Wheels. I have been reading post and it looks like I should be going for a new set of leafs, a set of front/rear swaybars, new shocks and subframe connectors.
My questions are, what style leaf springs? What size sway bars? What shocks? And for subframe connectors, Should I go with the homemade 2x3" square stock welded to the subframes or the full welded to the floor connectors (like U.S. Car tool style)? Is there anything else recommended for great handling?
 
jrlegacy23 said:
I am building my 72 Dart and am in the process of collecting parts for the suspension. I am looking to get the best handling suspension for the street. Maybe do a little autox if I ever get the chance. I have bought a set of 1.00" torsion bars, Magnumforce upper control arms (built in 3-5* caster), 17" Bullitt Wheels. I have been reading post and it looks like I should be going for a new set of leafs, a set of front/rear swaybars, new shocks and subframe connectors.
My questions are, what style leaf springs? What size sway bars? What shocks? And for subframe connectors, Should I go with the homemade 2x3" square stock welded to the subframes or the full welded to the floor connectors (like U.S. Car tool style)? Is there anything else recommended for great handling?
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-Use Hellwig hollow front and adjustable rear sway bar.

-Stock 340 rear leafs should be fine with those 1" t-bars. Usually sold as XHD stock height leaves. Choices would be www.firmfeel leafs or Hotchkis leafs. Those are a lot more $$$. If you need to lower the rear end use a front spring hanger that mover the front eye UP. I think ARenginering or Dr Diff sell those.

Shocks would be QA1 single adjustables.

Subframe connectors are sort of your choice. Depends on how much you want to fabricate. Tying them into the floorpan is not legal in E-Street Prepared Solo II. Again only if that means anything to you.

Next would be some good seats to hold you in.

-next would be some seats. Scat Pro Car seats fit in nicely with the style of older cars. A little nicer seat would be a www.corbeau.com

-thicker grip steering wheel. Like a Tuff wheel, Grant 3 spoke...

-look for front tires that are 245 wide or wider. 245/45/17 with 5" backspace A 275/40/17 with 5.25" or so backspace would really be cool up front, but I don't think you could fit that in the rear without mods. Read the 17" rim threads on fitting those up front. Look at grippy Kumho tires.

-align car to: 1/16" toe in, 1.0 deg negative camber (aggressive yes, but if you don't drive it daily or long trips), 4-5 degree positive caster

The bummer with that setup is that the tubular upper control arms take you out of the E-Street Prepared Solo II autocross class. If the classes really mean anything to you.
 
I really don't have an autocross track within 2-3 hours of me, So I am not too concerned with class specifics.
But if I am at one, I would like to be able to run the car for fun. But I am really looking to make the car handle on the street during normal driving.
I appreciate all the info so far, its really helpful.

Also, the car is being mini-tubbed to get the 17x10.5s in there, plus a custom width Dana 60, just ordered those axles from Doctordiff.
 
some quality front disc brakes are a must. rears are optional as they aren't really needed, but alot of people like them. AREngineering has some very nice brake products, or 73-75 factory a-body front discs at the very least.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
I really don't have an autocross track within 2-3 hours of me, So I am not too concerned with class specifics.
But if I am at one, I would like to be able to run the car for fun. But I am really looking to make the car handle on the street during normal driving.
I appreciate all the info so far, its really helpful.

Also, the car is being mini-tubbed to get the 17x10.5s in there, plus a custom width Dana 60, just ordered those axles from Doctordiff.
Click to expand...

Why are you putting a heavy Dana 60 in it??

Well they usually don't have autocross "tracks" just local clubs that find big parking lots, airstrips, etc.

Here's a list of SCCA clubs in NY: http://www.autocross.com/autoc/neclub.shtml
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
You would only need a Dana 60 if you are hooking very hard with big power at the drag strip.
Click to expand...

I am putting a 600HP Big block in the Dart (I know thats not the most weight transfer friendly combination), I had a 3/4 ton truck Dana 60 and a C-Body 8 3/4 laying in the garage. I figured if I was going to cut a rear down and fit it in the Dart, I might as well use the D60. Sometimes I get really stupid ideas and if I go to the drag strip and end up mounting a set of slicks on it, I do not want to have worry about breaking anything.
 
What are your guys opinions on Leaf spring sliders on a street car for handling? Like this:
afc-20236s_w.jpg
 
jrlegacy23 said:
What are your guys opinions on Leaf spring sliders on a street car for handling? Like this:
afc-20236s_w.jpg
Click to expand...


No big gains. We tried running those in our circle track cars (1/2 pavement). They actually would get tire rubber in them and bind/drag the suspension movement. One of the reason we like them was that we could shim them to get scale numbers. Something you're not going to do with a street car.

Again, they will transmit a lot more road vibration and harshness than a poly bushed hanger.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
Ya, I realize that, but I already put quite a bit of money in the Big block before the Dart came along... so thats what I am working with.
Click to expand...


Working with what you have and getting what you want do not often go hand in hand.

With a 600hp big block you are going to have balance issues (front end weight) not to mention power that will easily overwhelm the normal suspension mods usually talked about here.

I don't know what your end goal is exactly but lets say for example….

You want to be able to hang with a stock, mid 90s, 130hp, Miata on the twisty back roads…….


It isn't going to happen without lots of mods….. Probably the replacement of the entire front suspension and k-member along with working with someone to balance out the rear suspension. Then you will need to get a tire/wheel package under the car that will both grip and not be blown away every time you put your foot in it a little.

One way of going fast is never having to slow down.
 
I am not looking for an old mopar to handle like a sports car, I am just looking to get a noticabley nicer, more performance than stock handling A-Body that will be fun to drive.
There are a lot of old, worn out parts in my Dart and if I am going to replace them, I want to upgrade it and make it faster. All the information you guys have provided has been great so far and very educational for me. I have never tackled a project this big and don't want to spend money where I don't need to... like in leaf spring sliders (thanks autoxcuda for the good experience info on that one).
 
Let me chime in here.
Budget???????
Fabricating skill level?????
Time to money ratio?????
Andrew
OK BEER to time to money ratio???8)
 
stick with a good front and rear suspension rebuild with poly bushings, minimum 1" t-bars, quality shocks and sway bars, and improved front brakes and you will be astonished at the drivability and car control.
also need frame connectors no matter what your intensions are with the car.
 
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