Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I love a quick start and great for headers. JMOWhere you hear the gear reduction starter for a second and that's it.
I love a quick start and great for headers. JMOWhere you hear the gear reduction starter for a second and that's it.
@RustyRatRod I ran into a situation recently with a mini starter that wouldn't allways engage, I made a hemi to 727 adapter on my mill, and figured I screwed up the spacing, but I took it to my local alternator/starter rebuilder, he said there are a few different drives for those, and sometimes the mass rebuilders use the wrong one. I machined a simple spacer to allow more bendix travel, works great now. Just some random trivia on the subject...
That's the type I have, like the picture above. It would just BARELY get to the ring gear...definitely interesting.Interesting. All of them I've found so far look just like the one I have and Matt had. No way will they engage anything where the old big starter was. They have two strikes. The nub on the end of the gear and the fact they don't travel all the way to the end of the snout. No way that's engaging.
simple: Measure ring gear edge to mounting flange. Compare to these fugures---- retracted gear is 7/8 (22mm) past flange (your ring gear should sit deeper than this off the block but not much) . Fully extended gear is 1 3/8 (34mm) past flange for a drive width of ~1/2 inch (18mm). Your ring gear should be somewhere in the >7/8 (22mm) range for the starter gear to engage. This is assuming the starter actually bottoms out in the receiver and the flange is sitting on the trans flange. This particular starter has been used and I notices that the inside tooth edge has a wear mark on it, or actually overshooting the ring gear? Never made any strange noises and always engaged. The 66-69 Hemi 4-speed direct drive starter was different for some reason, probably the manifolds. notice no nub on end.
View attachment 1715713851