What's the Difference 4" Stroker CRANK??

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Treblig

Treblig

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What's the big difference between the lightweight 4" stroker crank:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201253889755?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT And a scat regular cast stroker crank???

Then there are these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331369354372?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330490891612?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I realize one is lighter but there is also a price difference. I'm building a mild torque monster 318/390 stroker. The motor will never see anything higher than 5800 RPM, besides I already have a modified 2004R overdrive installed, 1800 stall converter and 3.73 gears in the car so I don't need high RPMs anyway. Just lots of torque from 1K to 5800 RPM. Car will be used for street cruising with the occasional stomping of the gas pedal.

thanks,
Treblig
 
Totally off topic here but.......did you do that 200 4-R install and, if so, how big a pain in the *** was it? PM me if you want........

Bob
 
I hope you have a machine shop you are going to use. I would talk to them. Don't just drag a bunch of parts to them and expect your eng to come out right. Most of our machine shops are not much more expensive than mail order and if there is a problem they deal with it.
 
Just reading the links - the lightweight crank has machined/knife edged (lighter and less power lost to windage) counterweights. That might an issue if it's being internally balanced and heavier H beams are used. The others are the same crank, with heavier (unmachined) counterweights that's marked up by MP. I personally have not used the Scat lightweight but I wouldn't have a problem doing so in a street/strip application under 600hp assuming the bobweight allowed for internal balancing. Same limits as the MP cast units.
 
Isn't the Scat cast crank the one people have had trouble with breaking?
 
No - that's the Eagle cast. Scat's were always good, and they make the MP unit (or at least used to). The lightened one seems to be a newer model. I don't recall having that option years ago but I've been using Eagle or Callies forged in the last couple.
 
Go here:
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/#1

There is no lightweight 9000 series cast crank listed. Same part number as the std 4" cast crank in the catalog. I call BS on the description.

I do not trust descriptions that e-bay sellers use. Scat was and possibly still is the supplier for the renumbered MP crankshafts. Same piece with a MP number and more $

Here is the page from their website.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/engi.../manufacturer-scat/vehicle_make-chrysler.html

No lightweight cast cranks.

Call scat and ask.
 
rgp266 said:
Totally off topic here but.......did you do that 200 4-R install and, if so, how big a pain in the *** was it? PM me if you want........

Bob
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Bob, you're not totally off topic, I'm the one that mentioned the 2004R. Members always want to know what you're running to give a good answer so I had to stick that in there. I wouldn't say that the 2004R was a pain at all. I don't want to say it was easy but it wasn't hard. The most difficult part was during installation and that was because no one (that I found) had ever installed one with the engine already in the car. But now I know to cut the extra ears off the top of the trans so they don't hit the underside of the trans tunnel it would have been a 1 1/2 day job. You can read the whole story here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=252436

I documented the whole process from start to finish. But I went the slightly more difficult route of keeping my factory shifter and console. If you're seriously thinking about using a 2004R don't hesitate to ask whatever you like.

treblig
 
Jo Diesel said:
I hope you have a machine shop you are going to use. I would talk to them. Don't just drag a bunch of parts to them and expect your eng to come out right. Most of our machine shops are not much more expensive than mail order and if there is a problem they deal with it.
Click to expand...

The machine shop I use is run by a machinist who has been in the circle track business for 20 years. He builds and races his own engines/chassis/body. The guy has been there and done that and his prices are very reasonable. I've already talked to him a few times and we've discussed options, what I need and don't need.

Treblig
 
moper said:
Just reading the links - the lightweight crank has machined/knife edged (lighter and less power lost to windage) counterweights. That might an issue if it's being internally balanced and heavier H beams are used. The others are the same crank, with heavier (unmachined) counterweights that's marked up by MP. I personally have not used the Scat lightweight but I wouldn't have a problem doing so in a street/strip application under 600hp assuming the bobweight allowed for internal balancing. Same limits as the MP cast units.
Click to expand...


Moper, thanks for the info. I will definitely be under 600HP. I already have the SIR rods. I just don't understand why the lightweight crank is so much cheaper (it kinda makes me wonder)
PS - Do I really have to worry about windage below 5800 RPM???
Treblig
 
Just so everyone knows, I don't want to go the cheapest route. I want a crank that is suited for what I plan to use it for. Not the most expensive and not the cheapest either. I figured somewhere between $400-$575 was reasonable for what I'm looking at engine-wise. I do have some pretty wide tires and a new posi (3.73 gears) plus the super low 2004R first gear...so the engine will see some load when I launch it, but I probably will never completely floor it from a dead standstill.
When the light turns green I want to be first out of the box!!!:burnout:
Treblig
 

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moper said:
No - that's the Eagle cast. Scat's were always good, and they make the MP unit (or at least used to). The lightened one seems to be a newer model. I don't recall having that option years ago but I've been using Eagle or Callies forged in the last couple.
Click to expand...

Ok. Sorry bout that. I get them konfrooshed. I knew one had trouble. Thank you drive through.
 
Treblig said:
Just so everyone knows, I don't want to go the cheapest route. I want a crank that is suited for what I plan to use it for. Not the most expensive and not the cheapest either. I figured somewhere between $400-$575 was reasonable for what I'm looking at engine-wise. I do have some pretty wide tires and a new posi (3.73 gears) plus the super low 2004R first gear...so the engine will see some load when I launch it, but I probably will never completely floor it from a dead standstill.
When the light turns green I want to be first out of the box!!!:burnout:
Treblig
Click to expand...

imo the scat cast is a perfect choice and welcome to the useless first gear club lol .i know of at least 1 friend running a 550 hp 530tq and plus a 300 shot so 850 hp on a cast steel scat so they are a perfect street crank and are much stronger than most think .
 
jimjimjimmy said:
imo the scat cast is a perfect choice and welcome to the useless first gear club lol .i know of at least 1 friend running a 550 hp 530tq and plus a 300 shot so 850 hp on a cast steel scat so they are a perfect street crank and are much stronger than most think .
Click to expand...

That seems like the logical choice.

Thanks,
Treblig
 
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