What's up with these new rotors?

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TrailBeast said:
If I knew the answer to that question I might not be taking the ones that came with the rotors out.
Believe me I'd just throw it in there if it was a trailer, but I want the new races that came with the new bearings in there.
Keep in mind that I asked opinions on taking the existing ones out being there is no access to them, and not weather I should or not.:D

But thank you for saying.
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That's fine.
Sounds like your gonna do, what your gonna do anyway.
I wrenched for a living myself, and never was there any problem, between bearing and race, doing that.
 
hemi71x said:
That's fine.
Sounds like your gonna do, what your gonna do anyway.
I wrenched for a living myself, and never was there any problem, between bearing and race, doing that.
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My entire life up until 20 years ago was certified ATRA and ASE, and you are right that I am going to do it anyway.:D
If not that, then some trivial honey do or another.
 
Ok, one last thing.
Say the bearing and race factory is producing a thousand bearings and races a day.
On one side of the factory machines are making races, the other side of the factory the bearings themselves are being manufactured.
At the end of the day they just take a race off one line, and a bearing off another line, and wrap them each up in plastic wrap, or just put into the box.
They never, ever, were a "machined" together set from the get go.

And i don't have a clue what you mean by "trivial honey" in reply #27.
Carry on.
 
RAT ROD AL said:
30 plus years working on big rigs was always told, taught, and trained to use a matched set.
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There is no such thing as a new matched set. That's a myth. It's just like piston rings wearing into a cylinder. THey aren't matched until they run together......and even then with wheel bearings, It's just not that critical. I've seen people swap sides with bearings for years with no trouble.

But everybody does it different.
 
RustyRatRod said:
There is no such thing as a new matched set. That's a myth. It's just like piston rings wearing into a cylinder. THey aren't matched until they run together......and even then with wheel bearings, It's just not that critical. I've seen people swap sides with bearings for years with no trouble.

But everybody does it different.
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Agreed!!!
 
I think gentleman now would be the time to remove the race, and put the notches in now while on the workbench. Then maybe later in the middle of the night at a roadside motel with wheel bearing problems.....
 
Dicer said:
I think gentleman now would be the time to remove the race, and put the notches in now while on the workbench. Then maybe later in the middle of the night at a roadside motel with wheel bearing problems.....
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And what would the astronomical odds be with wheel bearing failure be years down the road in the middle of the night? lol
And I'll bet you a dollar to a rolling doughnut this car no longer is a "daily driver" and won't be seeing a thousand miles a month.
 
Dicer said:
I think gentleman now would be the time to remove the race, and put the notches in now while on the workbench. Then maybe later in the middle of the night at a roadside motel with wheel bearing problems.....
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That in my mind is the only legitimate reason to remove the race. To grind some reliefs to knock the races out later. I would endorse that move.
 
Dicer said:
Would you bet your life on it?
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Aw, come on now.
Your not putting together the next generation Martian Rover here.
EVERYTHING on an old car has lots of parts that are "worn out" from their original manufacturing specifications, and nothing's wrong with that, being used all the time, going down the road.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That in my mind is the only legitimate reason to remove the race. To grind some reliefs to knock the races out later. I would endorse that move.
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That's the best idea yet. Knock em out and put some just like em back in and save the ones that match the bearings for later. Might as well put some /6 rings in your next 440 build also.
 
Ok, now this is getting ridiculous.

I want to change the race and put the one that came with the new bearing in.
Big deal.
Sometimes I just want something to do on my car and outside.

People that don't know what "Honey Do's" means are lucky.
800 daily miles a month is closer to reality because I do all my business service calls with it as well as drive it pretty much every other excuse I get.:D

AND the only reason I asked opinions on it was to give some of you old farts something to do, as I really don't need help with any of it anyway.

Hope this doesn't offend y'all too much.
But a little is ok.:lol:
 
Well then, just go and do it. Figure it out for yourself
Have fun.
If in the future you ever burned up a bearing and race, that just means you ain't maintaining the car.
 
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just for the sake of argument, ive witnessed two instances , both involving old mopars , where the bearing races welded themselves to the spindles because of misalignment of the bearings inside the opposing race , also known as cross breading parts . the races got so hot riding on the outer edges that it took a hammer and chisel to get the welded races off the spindles, and ended up needing new spindles on top of it all.
 
Bulldozer said:
just for the sake of argument, ive witnessed two instances , both involving old mopars , where the bearing races welded themselves to the spindles because of misalignment of the bearings inside the opposing race , also known as cross breading parts . the races got so hot riding on the outer edges that it took a hammer and chisel to get the welded races off the spindles, and ended up needing new spindles on top of it all.
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I had a buddy who's 67 mustang wheel bearing got so hot it weakened the spindle enough to make his wheel camber out 30 degrees....on the way back from Vegas...wonder if it saw grease or maybe...a mismatched bearing? (scary music) Id find a way to pound it out after measuring the OD of the old race about 6 ways to Sunday to make sure the new race will fit.
 
Simple. Too loose- they fail
Too tight-they fail.
Lack of maintenance -they fail.
Old cup/new cone-they fail.
Two different brand parts, ah, the horse is still dead...
My 80 power wagon (10 years plowing snow) 470,000 km’s on it still running original wheel bearings,i have owned truck for near 30 years.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Simple. Too loose- they fail
Too tight-they fail.
Lack of maintenance -they fail.
Old cup/new cone-they fail.
Two different brand parts, ah, the horse is still dead...
My 80 power wagon (10 years plowing snow) 470,000 km’s on it still running original wheel bearings,i have owned truck for near 30 years.
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Or the idiot behind the wheel that kept on going without pulling over to check on the problem at hand.
Ok, i said it. :rolleyes:
 
If TB wants to replace the races, it's his car. I would sling them bad boys together, but we all do things differently......plus.......it's his car.
 
I'll also disagree with old cup/new cone failures.

Again, in over 35 years, All I ever replace is the cone.

I only replace the cup if it is visibly hot spotted, galled, or has an area that will catch a fingernail.

I've personally seen more bearing failures due to improper drag either too much or too little than mis-matched or used cups.
 
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