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You might put a c clamp or vise grips or bolt a wrench to the front of the trans bell to keep the converter from falling out on the ground.
You will only drop it once then you will get the idea.
 
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when you get into the steering and suspension
USA top balljoints work
USA bushings and bumpstops all work
Check the strut rods for the legth of thread and if they have the split pin or nylock nut and buy the appropriate year US bushings
US track rod ends work
US lower ball joints don't work you need Austrlian Lowers OR you need to cut the track rod sleeves down half an inch, to cater for the different angle of balljoint levers this may induce more bump steer. it all goes together if you don't but alignment will be impossible
You will need austrlian small sector shaft pitman arm
you can probably use a USA idler
You are on a cross over year i'd expect 1 year only disk brake rotors on an aluminium hub with 4.5 inch PCD and kelsey hayse style pin slider 1 pot calipers.
but you may have 4 inch pcd and you may have left hand and right hand threaded wheel studs.
the stub axles will have the small taper for the upper joint and the small taper on the stub axle for the inner bearing

if its a 770 trim level car it will have power steering. if that box needs rebuilding the internals are the same as the US in most respects except the piston/ballnut is RHD and i don't think you can do what we do on manual setups which is to turn the ballnut round end to end to convert LHD to RHD and vice versa. but the seals and bearings all fit and a thin US power sector will fit

The brake master is a 2 year only cast iorn disk/drum master 4 bolt mount. all you can get is rebuild kits and top seals. but it won't be foreign if you have dismanted a US one of similar vintage. it all works the same.

for the rears 1968 dart with slant 6 rockauto 9 inch drums rear does the job. all you can't get is the parking brake strut. your choice if you go hook and spring or pin cup and spring shoe retainers. The back plate is unique to the borg waner axle. if you need drums aussie ebay or canada or south africa

axle is a Borg warner M75 which is a beam axle version of the IRS m76 and later beam axle M76 same center differnt halfshafts the m78 is its bigger cousin

It will have thin 25 spline axle half shafts

www.9bolt.com and GM Individual parts and Kits for the m78 with 28 spline axle shafts

can get parts for the GM 9 bolt which is a borg waner M78 axle get the axle bearings/ seals from austrlia and the rest can come from the USA

M76 had a 7.6 inch ring gear M78 had a 7.8 inch ring gear both use the same centre, the M76 and M78 use different pinion head bearings but you can mix and match, pay attention to the fact that 25 and 28(ford 9 inch spline) spline versions exist if you need diff centre parts

moser will make custom axles for this diff in 28 spline if you want to fit a torqueline torquelock (eaton tru track) style centre look up centres for VL-VS holden commodore

or buy a 25 spline side gear and cone set for any M76 or M78 cone based sure grip centre you can find (USA camaro z28 firebird TA 82-92) (Austrlian chrylser Valaint Ford holden nissan) all used M78 or M76 or M75 diffs and the centers for 2.92:1 up to 4.11:1 are the same the only annomoly is the 2.77:1 with its offset ring gear flange to cater for its massive pinion head.

this is a seperated cone and side gear centre if it is worn just machine the ends of the cones down a few thou so they don't hit the case ends, and put shim in between cone and gear. good for another 50-75K. its a process described as sleazy, by some, but they came from the factory with shim if necessary, shim was used to get the correct spring pack tension to achieve acceptible torque biasing.

i'm a Uk owner of an austrlian chrylser who has the same problems as you...if i can help i'll do my best. i have parts book coveing 62-69 R/S series to VF series valiant (the VF was a VG with round lights and different front brakes) and factory manuals covering 71-73 cars (VH) neither is right for this car, howver they didn't change much, but if you have a google account with a google drive i car share them to you. both well out of copyrights and the company CA Ltd pty doesn't exist in any form anymore...


Dave
 
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You might put a c clamp or vise grips or bolt a wrench to the front of the trans bell to keep the converter from falling out on the ground.
You will only drop it once then you will get the idea.

I had the same thought after I pressure washed the engine compartment, so I strapped a really cheesy bungee cord across there (it was all I could find at the time). But it was all frayed and it broke when I was working on the suspension, so I tossed it across the garage.

Car is up in the air right now, and I doubt the converter is going anywhere, but you make a really good point, and I'll take care of this tonight.

Thanks!
 
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when you get into the steering and suspension
USA top balljoints work
USA bushings and bumpstops all work
Check the strut rods for the legth of thread and if they have the split pin or nylock nut and buy the appropriate year US bushings
US track rod ends work
US lower ball joints don't work you need Austrlian Lowers OR you need to cut the track rod sleeves down half an inch, to cater for the different angle of balljoint levers this may induce more bump steer. it all goes together if you don't but alignment will be impossible
You will need austrlian small sector shaft pitman arm
you can probably use a USA idler
You are on a cross over year i'd expect 1 year only disk brake rotors on an aluminium hub with 4.5 inch PCD and kelsey hayse style pin slider 1 pot calipers.
but you may have 4 inch pcd and you may have left hand and right hand threaded wheel studs.
the stub axles will have the small taper for the upper joint and the small taper on the stub axle for the inner bearing

if its a 770 trim level car it will have power steering.

Dave,

There was an Oz-sourced suspension and steering rebuild kit in the trunk (I forget the brand name, but it's not a "known" brand here in the States), and Bazza's intentions were to do all of the work this summer.

But Fate has other plans for him right now.....

Anyway, I'm right in the midst of doing this work, and one of the good people here has offered to do the LCA work for me/Bazza, as it's beyond my skill level. Hopefully I'll be able to complete the front end rebuild without running into too many issues (fingers crossed).

Not sure I'll need to do the brakes, as they work (no leaks!), the rotors have only a light coating of rust and aren't grooved, and they should clean-up nicely with a 3M disc.

As for the Regal 770 trim level, apparently PS wasn't automatically included, as not only does this car not have it, it has a weird idler pulley arrangement where the PS pump would normally reside. I don't have any pictures of this (yet), as I just recently managed to piece together that bit if the engine, but imagine putting a jigsaw puzzle together without having a picture to guide you.....

According to the Vehicle Body Identification Tag, this car has the following options:

crop.jpg


A70: Regal 770
A78: Roof Extension ("Mexicana") Package
H51: Air Conditioning
T14: 185 SR14 Tyres


And that's it. Power steering would have been option code S77, but sadly that's missing from this car.

Thank you for all of the info! Hopefully I won't need it, but I've done a Copy & Paste into a Word doc just in case.

Jim
 
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i'm a Uk owner of an austrlian chrylser who has the same problems as you...if i can help i'll do my best. i have parts book coveing 62-69 R/S series to VF series valiant (the VF was a VG with round lights and different front brakes) and factory manuals covering 71-73 cars (VH) neither is right for this car, howver they didn't change much, but if you have a google account with a google drive i car share them to you. both well out of copyrights and the company CA Ltd pty doesn't exist in any form anymore...
Dave,

I forgot to address this earlier, my apologies!

I do have this, but it reads like "a copy of a copy", and some things are a little hard to make out:

manual.jpg


Right now I can't think of anything I've run into that I haven't been able to handle (other than the LCA's), but I will certainly keep you in mind!

Thank you!

Jim
 
I went to a yard and picked up all the stuff to put the steering on the other side
 
whoa...there rare car

not only was the 2 door rare. aussies love a 4 door family wagon, you got the one with the funky sail panels, mexicana option is rare and makes for a nice looking rear screen area that the majority didn't have.... i.e talking low 100s made, maybe less

i belive the sails at the rear were just folded steel welded on to the standard body and leaded in.

don't think your steering pump replacement idler is standard hints at it being power in the past
if it has manual steering...parts are not a problem.

your steering rebuild kit will be most likley out of the same factories in china and mexico that anything you get in the US comes from i.e they will be friends with moog :)
although you may find Mackay Rubber bushes.. good qulity aussie brand

standard kit is usually "Roadsafe" brand or in ornage and blue boxes with OEM printed on it for no good reason.
or WASP...not had any of their stuff.
the really good kit is Made by sankie "Three 555" japanese stuff from the OEM who makes bits for toyota. but stopped supporting valiants in the 2000s
their kit turns up in moog boxes and Repco boxes occasionally.
TRW quinton repco Thompson vandervell all made parts or at least made parts boxes :)

the aircon is just a mirror image of a 1968-72 "airtemp by chrysler" Unit like those used in the US... it uses a control with a D shaped vacuum pipe connector rather than the rectangular pipe connector. your glass should all be tinted apart from 90% of the screen (top tint), and dated by small dots over certain letters in the manufactuerers logo.

the chances of any or the aircon working are low....
becasue it was vacuum operated, actions to change settings were never instant and many people press the buttons so hard they cracked the back of the vacuum circuit in the control. if its broken its probably been broken for 80% of the cars life and will be seized up.

If the sound deadening under the dash is still the old "horse hair" wadding (not sure if it has anything to do with horses :) ) and you intend to remove it, wear a mask.

Your car will have no build sheet in the car
however the options on the VIN plate will probably be chalked onto the underside of the dash frame on both sides. i.e visible to line workers when the car body was on the automated hoist that ran the length of the production line, before body met K frame and drive train.

the chassis should have the torque boxes that were used only on hemi cars and cabriolets in the US. i.e you don't need to spend $$ at US Cartool :)

If it has a "Special Order" number that will be on the drivers side inner fender after the chassis number. an SOA on this car would make a rare car even rarer

Dave
 
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your manual probably the best you will get without spending lots

they were published and distributed to dealers by Chrysler Australia, but once the company was taken over by mitsubishi 1978 that source dried up so all of us work from copies of copies or hard to find loose leaf originals.

mine are ex UK Chrysler dealer.

much of the avilable information today came out of the trash at the factory when mitsubishi cleared out all of the old chrysler documentation

Dave
 
If it has a "Special Order" number that will be on the drivers side inner fender after the chassis number.

Like this?
IMG_4311.JPG


When we first picked-up the car I tried rubbing a pencil across these numbers to make them "pop" more, but the entire car was subject to a pretty heavy re-spray in the mid '80's that makes this info a little hard to see. If memory serves it's cleaner/easier to make out on the inner side of the fender.

Please recall this is NOT my car, but rather one that belongs to a very near and dear friend who is currently hospitalized, and I hope to get it back into his possession (and out of my hair!) ASAP.

Jim
 
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yeah..... that car had something special. customer/dealer put in a special Order request...
which could be anything within reason, from all of the options available, provided it fits

god knows what, but they did
mind an SOA could also be applied to have something removed... still makes it pretty unique.

Unless of course SOA was applied to all Mexicana's??? but i doubt it, an SOA is unique number linked to a customer order.

that number would be on a form associated with this car only

You'd need to spend some money with valiant infobase in Australia to perhaps get detail on what the special order, added or removed, from standard spec.

laying on your back with your head up under the dash may or may not reveal more, by way of the chalk markings.

Dave
 
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