What's your opinion on the slack in this 318 timing chain?

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67CBodyGuy said:
You would think (or - I would think) that there would be more options for undersized chain sets for the past dozen or more years given the likelyhood of engine rebuilding (and line-honing) would be increasing for these engines.
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Probably because the ones available now are more expensive than the standards and don't sell because you won't see any effect of the special chain set in 95% of applications. If potential chain slack really bothers you, the only solution is gear drive or belt drive with a stiff tensioner. Gear drive is usually noisier and a tight belt drive could be bad for hydrodynamic bearings and sap as much HP as it saves in the timing accuracy.
 
67CBodyGuy said:
I'm tearing into this because of a coolant leak between the timing cover and the block, otherwise I wouldn't be here. I was curious about the condition of the timing chain. This engine was bought from a Chrysler dealer, it came from an authorized rebuilder in Toronto (Ontario Reman) circa 1986 and I might have 10k miles on it at this point.

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Sprocket made in Canada? Links made in Japan?

From what I read, even new timing sets have slack, maybe more than some people want or expect. I didn't measure the slack here, I can, but it looks like 5/16 inch. I haven't driven the car much in the past 2 years (was in storage for 20 years before that) but I'd like to see a smoother idle, don't know if it's the crappy gas now, or my expectations of 550 rpm, or the carb setup, or still having points (not electronic) ignition - or this chain?

I'm going to have to decide in the next couple days if this chain is staying on or if I'm going to replace it. Comments?
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That chain is too slacked for my liking without a tensioner to keep it from jogging at idle. I'd replace it.
One thing to note is.. it's not some slack thats the issue.. it's how much the cam is retarding from the chain stretch itself. You could technically degree it in to compensate for the slack.. but will it continue to stretch and retard. Buy a good billet set and skip the stock replacement crap.jmo
 
not to change the subject. But what do the dots on the crank gear mean looks like there's one at 9 o'clock /10 o'clock /2 o'clock. which dot would put the cam in at 102* ? thanks for the help.
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barracuda man said:
not to change the subject. But what do the dots on the crank gear mean looks like there's one at 9 o'clock /10 o'clock /2 o'clock. which dot would put the cam in at 102* ? thanks for the help.View attachment 1716330431
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It's not that easy. Because of machining tolerances, you must used a degree wheel.
 
barracuda man said:
not to change the subject. But what do the dots on the crank gear mean looks like there's one at 9 o'clock /10 o'clock /2 o'clock. which dot would put the cam in at 102* ? thanks for the help.View attachment 1716330431
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The lower spocket should have markings to show advancing or retarding the cam,("never go full retard "), but it won't show you what 102° is, you'll need a degree wheel for that.
Btw, is that bottom spocket aa worn as it looks in the picture?
 
4eighteener said:
The lower spocket should have markings to show advancing or retarding the cam,("never go full retard "), but it won't show you what 102° is, you'll need a degree wheel for that.
Btw, is that bottom spocket aa worn as it looks in the picture?
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its been a long time .don't have a cam card I do remember my machinist installed the cam at 102* i have a new pro gear timing set thanks
 
no I don't have a degree wheel looks like I'll have to buy one :thumbsup: hoping i could advance it 4* and let it eat
 
barracuda man said:
no I don't have a degree wheel looks like I'll have to buy one :thumbsup: hoping i could advance it 4* and let it eat
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You might can......but without a wheel, you'll never know. If you get a degree kit and it's spot on dot to dot, then great. The chances of that are very small. That's why I always recommend degreeing.
 
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