Wheel Bearing and Race

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DixieCuda

DixieCuda

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This may be in the wrong area and I am sorry if it is. I am looking for an exploded diagram for front wheel hub assemblies on a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda. Can anyone send me this diagram? I will be installing new bearings and races this weekend. Everything from the cotter pin to the back. Any and all information would be a great help.
 
Not near my '65 Technical Service Manual until later this week to see if there is a diagram for this, but on these car's it's pretty basic, the bearing races are the Hub and Spindle.

There is an inner seal on the hub, then inside the seal is the inner bearing, which mates to the Hub and the Spindle. If you are replacing the inner bearing, expect to replace the inner seal.

Then on the outer, the bearing mates to the Hub and Spindle, with a large keyed washer, Nut and keyed nut cover, Cotter Pin and bearing cover which pushes into the hub.

If it is the original drum & Studs, The drum is usually married to the hub and cannot be removed without unbolting the hub from the spindle.
 
You can NOT put this together incorrectly, it is impossible. There's a larger of two outer races which you gently drive into the rear of the wheel hub, either with a tool, large socket, or brass drift punch until it bottoms.

Smaller race fits in the front of the hub, same as rear race.

then you smear a goodly amount of clean grease into the clean bearing races, and pack both the "cones" ---the parts with the rollers---full of grease.

then drop the large cone, small side down, into the rear of the hub, and use an appropriate tool, large socket, etc, to drive the wheel seal into the back of the hub. Make sure the "sharp" edge of the seal points inwards

Smear a LIGHT smear of grease on either the back of the spindle or the seal lip to lube the seal rubber. (I can remember when they were leather.)

Then gently hold the front cone (rollers) into the front of the hub, as you slide the hub onto the spindle, and slip the keyed washer on.

Install the nut by hand, and either torque as to spec, or tighten "snug" as you turn the hub, then back off just a tad. Wiggle the nut with the cotter pin cap on, until you line up the cotter pin hole with a slot on the cap.

(My old '70 manual says tighten the A body spindle nut to 70 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds) and the B Bodies to 90" lb while rotating wheel.)

Install proper sized cotter pin, bend over one leg back over the top of the end of the spindle, and if necessary, use cutters to clip off the other leg a little.

Tap on the dust cap and you're done.

A diagram of a Fraud I shamelessly pirated from "somewhere:"

hubparts.jpg
 
The cavity between the 2 bearings is a resivoir for grease. I pump a donut of bearing grease there in a new hub. Preload on new timken taper roller bearings is 7 lbs and 5 lbs for used bearings.Or is it 5 and 3 ? I forget. Nobody uses the load gauge anyway. Just rotate the assembly while snugging the nut. What feels too tight to you probably is too tight. A feel for it comes from experience.
 
Also, You can use the old races along with a brass drift when driving the new races in. The thicker end of the race provides a shoulder to drive the old race back out again.
 
I've seen seals installed backwards and the "cookie cutter" behind the nut before.... The easiest way to tighten the nut is to do it with a wrench or Channellocks first to seat the bearing, back off the nut until you can turn it with your fingers and then tighten the nut with your fingers untill you can't move it. You're good to go right there. If this car is an A-body with 9" drums, check how the outer race fits in the hub. If it will move at all in the hub with your fingers, the hub is bad. I always check them (inner and outer) for all types of brakes but it's a very common problem with those 9" hubs. Does anyone really use a brass drift on bearing races? Must be pretty hard on the drift. If you're replacing the races, why worry about hurting them? Installing them is best with a socket just a hair smaller in diameter than the race. Even using a steel drift is no problem. I haven't seen one harder than a race so believe me, you're not going to hurt it.
 
Thank you for all the information. I am sure that when I start this job all of these posts will be perfect help.
 
A chip off a bearing race will easier come out the other side of your arm, eye, whatever, than back out. DO NOT STRIKE A HARDENED WITH A HARDENED !
And if the race is just a tad loose in the bore, I will use a punch and hammer to scar ( hand knurl ) the bore. I wont recommend such for your car. Works for me though.
 
There should be a castleated cage that goes over the castleated nut....that is a very old Ford drawing, as they were using the same thing back then too.
 
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